DIY MIrror ~ Easy Upgrade

Many of you are probably in my position and have those boring, builder-grade mirrors in your bathrooms.  They are great because they are HUGE but there is no character to them!  Well, I had a light bulb moment this week and came up with an easy and quick way to upgrade my kids boring bathroom mirror.  The best part of it is that it is not permanent!  It can be removed easily with no damage to your mirror, which is great for the fickle-minded like myself!  It’s also perfect if you are a renter and you can’t do anything permanent!

DIY_Mirror_Frame

My mirror is about 4 ft. long so I was able to get the job done with 2 1×4’s @ 8ft. long.  I opted to pay a bit more and purchase select pine to make sure my boards were straight.  You can even upgrade to oak but I was happy with the select pine that I had to choose from.  The supplies I needed for this entire frame only cost me $20!

Here’s how I made it happen!

Ryobi_Compound_MiterI started by cutting my boards.  All of your cuts will be mitered at 45 degrees.  Not all mirrors measure the same so I will not share my cuts with you.  I started by measuring the length of my mirror and added about an inch to the measurement (my measurements were short point to short point and they will not be parallel).  I love my Ryobi 10-inch compound miter and was happy to use it for this project!  It’s a very smooth and accurate cut and it makes my job so EASY!

If you don’t have this cutie, don’t worry!  You can purchase this handsaw and miter box to get the job done!  This is the perfect tool for a small project like this and you will get lots of use from it!

Water_PoppingNow for the finish!  I tried a cool technique, for staining, that we learned at the Rust-Oleum event we attended.  It’s called water popping and it gives a very nice and smooth finish to your stain.  Just dip a clean cloth in a bowl of water and wring it out.  Then wipe the boards down where you will be staining them.  This will open the pores in the wood, allowing it to soak even more of the stain in!  *Because the pores will be open, make sure not to touch the boards with your hands until the water popping technique has dried.  The oil from your hands will leave spots*

Miter_CutsCuts look good:)  We will attach them after we stain!

Rustoleum_Dark_WalnutI opted for my favorite Dark Walnut stain by Rust-Oleum.  I applied 1 coat and wiped it with a clean cloth after about 5 minutes.  You don’t want to wipe the excess stain off completely.  You are wiping to distribute the stain evenly.  Because we are putting this on a mirror, you will want to stain both sides so that you don’t see the unfinished back through the mirror!  It will drive you crazy:)

rust-oleum_polyurethane-267x300

Once both sides dried, I used Rust-Oleum Polyurethane in a matte finish.  This step is important!  You want to protect the wood finish since it will be around water.  I applied one coat with a bristle brush.

Time to build the frame!

Kreg_Jig_Pocket_HolesI used my Kreg Jig to drill pocket holes into the short boards.  To drill the holes, just place the board in your Kreg Jig with the angle resting flat on the base.  Your holes will drill into the boards at an angle as shown in this picture!  Super easy!

Time to hang it up:)

3M_Command_StripsAs I said, I am fickle and the idea of gluing a frame on the mirror was killing me!  That’s when I had that light bulb moment!  I love 3M Command Strips and knew they would work like a charm for this mirror!  I bought 1 package of 4 sets of large strips!  It holds up to 16 lbs which is plenty for this frame!  Just follow the instruction on the back to hang to the mirror!  I suggest waiting 24 hours for the finish to dry completely before applying the Command Strips!

***I removed all of my mirror clips so that my frame fit.  My mirrors are very secure but if you are concerned about removing yours, you can buy very thin plastic mirror clips, at The Home Depot, to replace them.  The frame will fit over the thinner style clips:)***

That’s it!!!

Here’s the before:

BathroomBefore photo taken by Hunter Phillips!

DIY_Mirror_Frame

I love, love, love!  And, the best part ~ If I change my mind tomorrow, I can just pop it off the mirror and pull the command strips down!  Can’t believe I didn’t do this sooner!

Thanks so much for stopping by!  If you love this idea, I would love your pins!

~Ashley

 

 

 

  • Meg @Lip Gloss and Lumber

    What a great idea Ashley! Using the command strips to hang it, genius, seriously :). I love the finished look.

    I’ve got a question about the water popping technique you used. Dose doing that basically take the place of using a pre-stain wood conditioner? And, if so, does it provide the same result as using the pre-stain too? Thanks so much for your help :)

  • Ken Carpenter

    Thanks for the tips on water popping, anxious to try it.

  • Janelle Knight

    How would I measure the short boards, I know you said add an inch to the longer boards but not sure about the shorter ones. Thank you:)

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Janelle,
      Just mark where the long boards will stop (long point to long point) and measure between that space for the short boards. This measurement will also be long point to long point. Hope this helps!!

      • Janelle Knight

        ok great thank you!!! if I do not have any of the tools listed will lowes or homedepot do a miter cut?

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          I don’t think so… They do sell an inexpensive miter box and hand saw that would be perfect for this project though! It’s around $20!

        • Laura B

          A lot of times Home Depot will have a miter box and saw for you to use to make your own cuts before purchasing. It’s usually on the box that holds all of the extra pieces of wood. Sometimes it’s hiding in the bottom of the box but we’ve found it at every store we’ve been to.

  • Rachel Corrine Davis

    I can’t believe how easy this project was! Plus, I wanted to make sure the mirror was put together really well since it will be in the humidity of the bathroom, so I finally bought a pocket hole kit! I used the Rustoleum Oil Rubbed Bronze spray, and I love the way it came out.

  • http://www.facebook.com/aawester Allie Wester

    First off, I am OBSESSED with your blog! I found it last night and haven’t been able to stop looking at all of your amazing projects! My boyfriend and I are building a new house that will be ready this July, so these ideas came at the perfect time!

    I know absolutely nothing about woodworking but am determined to try some of your projects. The question I have about this particular one is, if the mirror frame is being attached to the mirror with the command strips, what are the pocket holes needed for??

    Can’t wait to try this project! :)

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Allie!
      Thanks so much:). We are so happy to have you! You can put the mirror frame up with command strips only but the angles may not look completely flush with each other. The pocket holes basically build the frame before you hang it! I personally think it’s the best way to go about this if you aren’t using liquid nails to hang;). Hope this helps and enjoy decorating your new home!

  • http://twitter.com/SimplyDesigning Simply Designing

    Love it!

    And what it really funny is that we both had the same thought this week! I posted about my bathroom mirror frames I build on my blog earlier this week too! haha! Great minds :)

    Have a great week!
    Ashley
    http://www.simplydesigning.net

  • http://www.facebook.com/caxidi Gladys Camarena de Avilez

    Truly love it! Should do this in my soon to be remodeled master bathroom.

  • Janet

    I LOVE the mirror. However my question/comment is off topic (and it’s sorry).
    I notice your bathroom has the same light fixture as mine and to be honest, I don’t love mine. Mine is a 8 bulb, finished in brass (think 80’s style). I have seen the light conversion kits for the smaller fixtures but they are $100 or more. Which means I could spend the money on a new fixture rather than a “fancy lampshade”. Have you thought about creating something that goes over those bulbs and dresses it up for less?

  • Dragonfly Diva 72

    Very Nice! I had a builder grade mirror like that which had gotten moisture behind it and the metallic background was messed up at the edges. When we redid our bathroom last spring my dad made me a frame like this, while we didn’t try the Command Strips I’m not sure they would have worked as our walls are not straight and believe it or not the mirror is not flat. We tried really strong tape (sorry don’t remember the kind) and a couple kinds of glue and within a couple days it would pop off at one corner and one side because of the curve of the wall. So eventually he rebuilt another frame with overlapping edges for the top and one side ( the bottom butts up against the sink top and the 4th side another wall) and we screwed the darn thing into the wall. But after a lot of effort it looks gorgeous! So glad yours went so smoothly!

  • http://www.facebook.com/gina.buckleywelsh Gina Buckley Welsh

    Love it! I also adore the framed letters you have :) DId you get them all at one place or several different places? I would love to do that.

  • Debi

    What does this mean?(my measurements were short point to short point and they will not be parallel). So you add a inch to each board?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Short to short is the short part of the angle. So measure the length of your mirror and add an inch to the measurement. This way the frame will cover your mirror without showing at all. When you mark your measurement on the board your angles on each board that are pointing towards the center are your short points. The longest points that extend away from the center are your long to long measurements. Hope this makes sense. We need to do a how-to video on this!

      • Debi

        I would love to see a video on this, Im confused… (don’t take much :) ) which way would you angle go from the mark…does tha make since?

  • http://www.facebook.com/rachele.hammondminton Rachele Hammond- Minton

    I don’t own a Kreg Jig, how would you suggest fitting the pieces together without one? BTW, I am loving all of your ideas and have pinned many and even tried a few with great results. I love all of your detailed tutorials. Thanks for sharing.

    • http://www.facebook.com/melle.eldridge Melle Eldridge

      if you can AT ALL afford even the small kreg jig starter kit, it’s SOOO worth it! I got my husband the mid-grade kit, $49. He’s used it for all sorts of things for me around the house. He even built me the Ana White Farmhouse table (9 feet by 4 feet of farmhousey goodness!)

      If it’s out of your budget, maybe she can help you, but if you can fit it in somewhere… Wow! You just won’t regret it!

      • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

        Perfect way to put it Melle! There is the Kreg Jr. that you could start with! Great investment either way you go!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      So great to hear that Rachele! Thank you:) If you don’t have a Kreg Jig, you can still do this with a set of clamps and Gorilla Glue Wood glue. If you plan to do more wood working projects in the future though, you will get every bit of money out of your Kreg Jig:) One of our most used tools!

  • Anne Davis

    duh, how stupid am I? I’ve been looking for a removable frame idea – I use command strips all over the place but never thought of them for this! You are brilliant! Guess what project I’m doing in the very near future :)

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Wahoo!! Thank you Anne! Please send us your finished pictures:))

  • Kathy Page

    Do you attach it to the mirror itself??? LOVE this idea! My hubby would NOT let me glue on the mirror so it has been looking so plain and driving me nuts!! This might work with him!! Thanks so much for sharing!!!!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes Kathy! Attach the frame to the mirror itself with the Command Strips! It won’t hurt the mirror a bit;) Good luck and thanks so much for your sweet comment!

      • Renae

        So I am trying to understand completely. Is there a gap/space between the frame and the wall? Basically the width of the mirror? The mirror is hung separately from the frame and how do you get to the command strips to remove them when you want?

        Sorry, I usually can visualize pretty well, but I am just not getting this down.

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Hi Renae,
          The Command Strips stick to the frame and the mirror. Then they Velcro to each other. When you want to remove the frame, just pull it away from the mirror and the command strips will un-Velcro. You will then peel the command atrips off of the mirror and the frame. There is a small gap between the wall and the frame but you do no notice because the mirror is thin.

          • http://www.facebook.com/melle.eldridge Melle Eldridge

            When I read this thru the first time, I was picturing those plastic hanger things in my head. Wondering if that’s what Renae is picturing?

            These velcro-y hangers are just flat strips of velcro… Like the depth of double sided tape. :)

            Maybe that will help with the visualization process also?

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Thank you Melle:)

          • Renae

            Thanks, that makes so much more sense. I forgot they made the velcro strips. I was trying to envision the other command strips I’ve used and it wasn’t computing for me.

            I’m excited to give this a try with a scalloped screen door window that I have. Could be really cool if my vision works out.

  • Gabbi Zaccheria

    That looks so much better!! I use 3M strips for everything I possibly can…I LOVE them! :)

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you so much Gabbi! I LOVE 3M strips too! So easy:)