DIY Pedestal Coffee Table

I know I say it a lot but, this is my FAVORITE project ever! When we moved into our home we had a sectional that I built a square coffee table for. Unfortunately, the sectional didn’t fit in my living room so we sold it and bought two couches. I left the coffee table there because I had so many other pieces of furniture to build for our home but the space really needed a long rectangular table. Well, last week I was finally able to get to work on it and this is what I came up with!

Pedestal-Coffee-Table-DIY

Total cost for this coffeeย table – $130!!! I can’t get over how much I love the chunky pedestal legs! They are a mix of 1x boards, cove molding and casing and it really is an easy table to build. I had originally planned this design for a dining table but I have a dining table and really needed a new coffee table. So, the coffee table trumped the dining table BUT, I will be creating a dining table based on this design very soon ๐Ÿ˜‰

We’ve got the free printable plans for you to follow. You can click HERE or the image below to print them.

print-for-coffee-table-plans

 

And, the step-by-step tutorial! The shopping list for the plans only covers the main table and leaves options for the trim. I have detailed additional lumber purchases and an extra tutorial for the trim that I built, below.

cut-angles-on-legs

The first step is to make the cuts for the feet of the table. To make the angled cut, set your miter saw at 45 degrees and line the blade up so that it is just going to cut the top half off of the board off.

drill-pocket-holes

Then drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes

build-coffee-table-base

and assemble the feet with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. It will look like this now.

attaching-foot-pads

Next, attach the foot pads with wood glue and finish nails. I used my 18-gauge brad nailer.

attach-foot-pads

Here is the bottom of the base with the foot pads attached.

attach-boards-for-legs

Now, flip the base over, attach the 1×6 support pieces and start attaching the boards to create the legs. Use wood glue and brad nails.

build-legs-for-base

 

Continue attaching the boards to form the legs. I used bar clamps to hold everything flush while I nailed them.

build-frame-for-table-top

Now for the table top. Build the frame, according to the plans. It will look like this when you are done.

attach-planks-with-nailer

Then, center the planks on top of the frame and attach them with wood glue and brad nails.

coffee-table-top

Easy enough right ๐Ÿ™‚

Now, if you want the big chunky trim on the table, put the plans down and follow this tutorial. If you want just a basic piece of trim on the legs (as shown in the plan images) then continue with the plans.

This trim is MEASURE AND CUT AS YOU GO! I can’t stress that enough.

Trim work is truly my favorite part of building because it is really just a bunch of basic layering steps but the result looks anything but basic! So, don’t let the angle cuts scare you away. This is a very detailed tutorial that will break it all down for you and make it easy!

Extra lumber to purchase for this specific trim:

1 – 1×6 @ 6ft.

1 – 1×3 @ 6ft.

8 ft. of 2 1/2″ casing (link provided below)

13 ft. of cove molding (link provided below)

cut-angles-for-top-of-feet

 

Cut 8 – 1×6 pieces @ 5.5″ with one end cut at a 45 degree angle. These are small cuts so I cut the 45 degree angle off of a long board first (set your bevel arm at 45 degrees and cut as show in the pic).

straight-cut-for-top-of-feet

Then, mark 5.5″ from the longest point and make the straight cut.

apply-glue-to-foot-trim

Now, apply wood glue to the bottom (notice how I am holding the angle and where the glue goes).

attach-foot-trim-with-nailer

Next, lay the piece on top of a foot flush against the base of the leg and nail in place. Do this on all eight sides of the legs.

cut-1x6-trim-to-fit

Now, mark a cut for a 1×6. This should be about 5.5″ long to fit the width of the side of one leg.

attach-1x6-trim-to-leg

Attach it to the base of the leg with wood glue and brad nails.

add-1x6-trim

 

Notice the 1×6 is the width of one side of the leg. Do the same for the opposite side of the leg.

measure-for-1x6-trim

Next, measure the length from one 1×6 trim piece to the other (my measurements was about 7 1/8″)

first-trim-pieces-attached

 

and attach it wood glue and brad nails. This piece will be flush with the first 2 trim pieces. Do the same for the opposite side of the leg and to the other leg. Now the base of both legs should be completely wrapped in 1×6.

add-1x3-trim

After both legs are wrapped in 1×6, start a new layer of trim. Measure the same way for the first two 1×3 pieces and attach them to the base of the legs with wood glue and brad nails.

measure-for-second-1x3

Next, measure for the next two 1×3 pieces and attach them the same way.

second-trim-pieces-attached

Now, the leg will be wrapped in a layer of 1×6 and the 1×6 will be wrapped in a layer of 1×3.

table-base-with-2-trim-layers

Do the same thing for the other leg. Your table base should be looking pretty good right about now ๐Ÿ™‚ It’s time to fancy it up with molding!

miter-cut-third-layer

 

This is the easiest way for me to measure and cut casing. I make my first 45 degree cut on a long piece. To do this, rest the casing flat against the fence of your miter saw (just like it will sit on the table leg), swing the miter arm (bottom) to 45 degrees and make your cut. Here is the casing I purchased.

mark-for-second-miter-cut

 

Set it on top of the 1×3 and mark for your second angled cut.

miter-cut-the-other-side

Set the casing against the fence (the same way as the first cut) and swing the arm so that it cuts the 45 degree angle opposite of the first cut. (This picture shows an angle cut on the right side and the saw is now set to make a cut for the left side).

attach-third-trim-layer-with-nailer

Attach the casing with wood glue and brad nails. Put your nails in the deep grooves of the casing because they hide the best there. Continue to measure and cut as you wrap the leg in casing. Cut the first angle every time then mark for the second cut.

casing-attached

Your legs should look like this now. The 1×3 and casing are covering the majority of the 1×6 now and it’s looking awesome! Our final step is to dress it up with cove molding!

how-to-cut-cove-molding

 

Again, make your first angle cut on a long stick of cove molding. To do this, rest the stick of cove molding against the fence, so that the curve of the molding faces you. Set the miter to 45 degrees and make your cut. Here is the cove molding I purchased.

measure-for-second-cut-on-cove-molding

Set it at the base of the leg (directly on the 1×3 and mark for your second cut). The short part of the angle will be flush with the corner of the 1×3).

make-second-cut-on-cove-molding

Now, swing the miter arm to cut the opposite 45 degree angle and make your cut.

first-layer-of-cove-molding-attached

Attach the cove molding with wood glue and brad nails. Continue the same steps until both leg bases are wrapped.

cut-top-cove-molding-to-fit

Finally, measure and cut to fit cove molding on the top of the trim. This will sit directly on top of the 1×6 trim. Attach with brad nails and wood glue and continue until both legs are wrapped.

That’s IT for the leg trim ๐Ÿ™‚ Now, set the table top on top of the base but don’t attach it yet. I suggest applying your finish before attaching. You can refer to your plans for the rest of the build.

apply-glue-to-top-trim-pieces

Measure and cut the 1×3 trim to fit the table top

attach-table-top-trim-with-nailer

 

and attach it with wood glue and brad nails.

attach-end-trim-to-top

Attach the end pieces first then measure for the side pieces.

ready-for-stain

I had some unruly 1×3 pieces so I used a clamp to flush them up. Once the glue dries, you are ready for stain!

Varathane Carrington Wood Stain

 

I applied one coat of Varathane Carrington stain to the entire piece. Just wipe it on with a clean cloth, wait 5 minutes then wipe the stain with a new clean cloth.

ready-for-poly

Once the stain dried, I attached the table top to the base (according to the plans).

poly-table-top

I like to bring my pieces inside to apply the finish. There is so much flying in the air, outside, that can stick to the finish while it is drying. I applied our FAVORITE poly, Varathane Triple Thick. You just brush on one coat and it is equal to three coats! It dries so fast, it’s water-based (so easy clean up) and it gives such a smooth finish. We like satin. You can see in the picture that it looks white before it dries. You want this. It will dry clear.

That’s it!!!!

DIY-Pedestal-Coffee-Table

DIY-Coffee-Table-with-Legs

 

How-to-Build-a-Coffee-Table

DIY-Pedestal-Leg

DIY-Coffee-Table

DIY-Pedestal-Table

Pedestal-Coffee-Table-DIY

It’s amazing that a bunch of pine boards, sweat and sawdust can create such a beautiful and custom looking coffee table for only $130 in lumber!

Thanks so much for stopping by!

~Ashley

There is so much DIY in this room! Click the links for the full tutorials!

Mantel

Floating Shelves

Leather Strap Shelves

Flooring

The rug is from World Market. The decorations on the shelves are from HomeGoods, Hobby Lobby and Marshall’s.

The cabinet color is Anonymous by Sherwin Williams

Check out this video to build this DIY Rolling Storage Coffee Table!

  • Nada Sleem

    what material you used on your garage floor, its shiny, i like it

  • Dani Cherie Gaspard

    Gorgeous! This is going at the top of my hubby’s honey-do list!

  • Karen

    I think I may have to build this and a matching dining table…do you have dimensions for the dining table by chance?

  • wow..this is amazing!!!!!!

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  • Kathe Hart

    Can I have the square table? I love everything you guys do! ๐Ÿ˜‰

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  • Mary

    The table is amazing. But, I was also totally transfixed on your gorgeous garage floor. Did you put a DIY in your blog for the floors?

  • Linda Baldock

    Amazingly gorgeous!!!!

  • Nichole Caten

    OMG, in loooove.