DIY Barn Door Hardware for $20

You read it right! $20 Barn Door Hardware 🙂 We love adding barn doors to just about anything, lately, and I have been determined to figure out how to make a DIY version of hardware for you guys. The hardware can be so pricey and when you are trying to build budget-friendly pieces, sometimes it just can’t be done. It took me a full two days of work and four trips to Home Depot to get this hardware just right! And, I’m so excited to finally be able to share it with you!

Isn’t it gorgeous! And, they are totally customizable! Make them for any piece of furniture you want (even a full door). All you have to do is make the track piece longer or shorter. If you make it longer, just add a few more spacers with hex screws, along the track for added support.

This is a project that is better taught in a video so, Whitney and I made a how-to video for you! Click HERE or the image below to watch how easy it is to DIY your own Barn Door Hardware!

So cool right!?

The supplies can be a little bit overwhelming so, I’m listing them below, with links, so that you can find them in hardware store.

Here are the supplies you’ll need for ONE barn door. If you are building two barn doors, double the supplies.

The star of the show are these Clothesline Pulley’s. You will need two and you can find them HERE. These babies are only $2.38 at Home Depot. Just take them apart (watch the video to see exactly how) and you’ve got yourself a barn door wheel! *Note: These pulley’s are from Home Depot. We tried to take apart the pulley’s at Lowe’s and had no luck. They are made differently so if you can, try to get them at Depot.

Next up, you will need one package of these 2″ hex screws. Find them HERE.

You’ll need two 1″ spacers. These can be metal also. My Home Depot only had nylon material but it’s going to get spray painted, so it doesn’t matter. You can find them HERE.

Next, you’ll need a 1″x1/8″x96″ Aluminum Flat Bar. You can find it HERE. If you are building two of these, you still only need one flat bar.

For the wheel assembly, you’ll need:

2 – 1/4″ x 1″ hex bolts: find them HERE

1 package of  – 1/4″ washers: find them HERE

1 package of 1/4″ locking nuts: find them HERE

You’ll also need a few baby hex screws. You can find the box HERE 

We used a speed square and a pencil to mark for our cuts. You can find the speed square we use HERE on Amazon.

You’ll need a jigsaw blade that will cut metal. You can find one HERE.

Clamp the flat bar down to cut it.

It cuts through the flat bar like butta!

Use metal drilling drill bits to predrill your holes in the flat bar. You can find the drill bits HERE. Refer to the video for the placement of the holes!

Now you can assemble the wheels.

Refer to the video for the wheel assembly.

You’ll also need a nut driver bit to drill the hex screws into the barn door track. You can find a set of bits HERE.

Once all of the holes are predrilled and the wheels are assembled you can attach the barn door track to the piece of furniture.

Test it out! We made sure everything fit, just right, before taking the track down to paint all of the hardware.

We used two coats of Rust-Oleum Flat Black Spray paint. You can find it HERE on Amazon. *Tip: make sure you spin the wheels around, as they dry,  to get full coverage!

Once the spray paint dried, we mounted the track back on the furniture and attached the barn door (refer to the video for that, too)!

That was it! Custom DIY Barn Door Hardware and we didn’t break the bank 😉

Make sure to subscribe to our Youtube channel so you don’t miss our next video: How to build this awesome Barn Door followed by the light sconce!

Thanks so much for stopping by!

Happy Building!

 

  • Robert Rhonda Poetker

    This is so cool !!! Thanks for the Share !!! I’ll keep this bookmarked and also share it on my diy site too 🙂 This is another reason why i follow you ladies 🙂 So inspiring !!!

  • Kallie Jackson

    I’ve made two sets of these for doors in my house using a similar technique but I used garage door pulleys. I have two reclaimed wood doors with a wrought iron panel in each on my pantry using the garage door pulleys so needless to say, it gets a LOT of use and those doors are heavy. I used an “L” bracket screwed in the floor to keep the doors from swinging out and a hex bolt in the ends of the aluminum strip as a stop. They’re truly beautiful.

  • Kashonna Gordon

    What color and brand of paint is on the walls? I’ve been looking for a grey paint color to paint my living room.

  • Hayley

    Love this! Such a fantastic share! My husband and I are in the midst of converting a walk-in attic to a bathroom, creating a “Master Suite” in our 1880’s FarmHouse. We would love to do this for the Bypass doors for our closet. I was thinking we could use the spacers and space a second bar out from the first… but then it occurred to me that the door wouldn’t be able to slide passed the spacers. Any suggestions???

  • Leslie Whitt Comer

    It cost me total $31 at a Texas Home Depot in April 2017. I still appreciate your channel, but the title about the hardware costing $20 is false.

    • You can make 2 sets for $40 after tax. I built two nightstands 😉 you should have enough flat bar to build another set.

      • Leslie Whitt Comer

        I see…I’ll post pictures of my screen porch door conversion when I finish. Thanks, girls!

    • Jenna Spadt

      It is not false. I just bought the supplies yesterday at Home Depot and spent $39 for everything I need to make TWO.

      • Happy to hear 🙌🏽 Can’t wait to see yours! Send us pics when you finish 🙂

  • Brittany Boyd

    Did the price for the aluminum bar go up? The bar that is linked here is $18 alone…

  • Carole Bélanger

    Thank you so much for this! I know what I’m doing this week-end. I have been waiting for a long time to find an idea like this on pinterst. I’ll send you a picture of what I’m doing.

  • Marc-Andre Gauthier Merk

    I’m thinking of doing the same thing but on a larger scale 2 closet doors built of 1/2″ sanded birch plywood with framing around the edges. Would you girls suggest a thicker gauge aluminum?

  • Jana Taylor

    Tried to subscribe for e-mails & it says the option has been deactivated

    • Sorry about that! We are working on some back end stuff with our subscription list. It should be working soon!

  • JJ Rubalcava

    Any plans for this nightstand?

  • Won Word

    I wonder how you keep the paint from wearing off the pully wheels over time. This is why metal wheels are ideal, albeit more expensive.

    BTW, the plural form of “pully” is “pullies,” not “pully’s.”

    • Leslie Whitt Comer

      Try “pullies,” Won Word.

    • Kallie Jackson

      Pulleys. The plural of pulley is pulleys.

  • Jack

    Just thinking out loud here: To keep the door from coming off the track backwards(or forward for that matter)maybe you can use a longer hex head bolt instead of the hex head screw, put it thru a drilled hole in the piece with the head staying on the outside, use a second-but shorter- nylon spacer between the head of the bolt and aluminum cross piece so it sticks out just a little bit farther then the wheel. I know, I know maybe a stretch but the door not stopping as it reaches the outside edge is a big problem in my mind.

    • Yep! That’s what we have been suggesting on social media. This piece doesn’t need a stop. The door is so small 😉

    • Briarsmoke by Varathane 🙂

  • Kim Harnagel

    Smart way to get a good look. I know this is crazy but….where did you get the baskets? I’ve been looking for these exact ones!

  • Николай баранов

    Excellent work) But you need to think of something, so that the door does not swing backwards.

    • It’s so light weight that it doesn’t swing backwards 😉 I would have added a guide at the bottom if it needed it.

      • JJ Rubalcava

        Any plans for this particular nightstand? Looks nice and simple.

  • Lynn Bui

    What stain did you use for this? I like the color.

  • Ashlee Lindstrom

    Love thanks so much for this! I’ve been wanting to do this for quite some time now I actually can 😊👌