DIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table!

Oh HEY guys!  For those of you that follow us on Instagram, you have seen the progress of this baby I am sharing today.  I am in LOVE… With a table.  Not ashamed.

I loved my old dining set, but have always wanted to build one myself for my fam.  With 5 kiddos under the age of 11, we live a casual lifestyle, and I avoid cushions if at all possible.  Casual doesn’t have to be simple and boring though!  So, I enlisted the help of my sweet, furniture planning guru, Miss Ana White to help me come up with this BEAUTIFUL and beefy DIY farmhouse dining table…

DIY Dining Table

Dining Table DIY

Isn’t is the bomb??  Too legit to quit!  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for it… I made it for $100 in wood.

I am going to share lots of tips and tricks on building this right here, and you can see the full set of free plans for the table on Ana’s site!

Let’s get started!

I knew I wanted this table to be big and beefy, so I was immediately drawn to using 4×4’s for the base.  These are beautiful and cheap at the same time.  There are some things you need to remember though.  Because of their thickness, some saws won’t be able to cut them.  A 12″ miter saw should do the trick perfectly.

Table Base Wood

I was so excited to finally get to bust open my Kreg HD JigDIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table!
I’ve actually had it staring at me in a box for months because I was too intimidated to open it up.  I avoid learning new things, and then once I see how easy they are, I want to hit myself for not doing them sooner.

So, basically the Kreg HD JigDIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table is a larger version of the Kreg Jig.  It’s perfect for working with big projects like this one, since you won’t be able to fit these 4×4’s into the Kreg Jig.  Here is what it looks like and how I clamped it on to my boards.

Kreg HD Jig

Kreg Jig HD

I used my Ryobi 18V drill to make the pocket holes.  These pocket holes are bigger and thicker than the ones made with the regular Kreg Jig.

I took lots of photos of where I put my pocket holes on the base because sometimes figuring out the best places to put them is the biggest battle.  You have lots of options, but here is where I decided to put mine…

I also used Gorilla Wood Glue between all of my joints!


Kreg Jig Dining Table

This is a shot of the top of the base turned upside down on the ground.  I put the pocket holes where they would stay very hidden.

Pocket Holes on Table BaseAnd this is the bottom of the base…

Wood Dining Table How to

That is a shot of the 2×4 runners that will go just beneath the table top.

Now for the diagonal pieces… Sometimes these can be a booger to clamp.  In fact, I spent a good 10 minutes trying to hold one in place and then I finally had a light bulb moment and pulled out my Gorilla Tape.  That stuff worked like a charm!  I know it’s not the most beautiful clamping job, but hey… It held those pieces perfectly and cost a whole lot less than all of my clamps.  We will call this part Shanty Clamping 😉

Clamp Wood with Gorilla Tape

On this part, I just used 3″ wood screws through the diagonal pieces and into the straight pieces.  You can see where my screws are in these pics…

Table Base DIY

I used 4″ screws on this part and went through the bottom runner and into the diagonal part.

Don’t clamp.  Use the tape.  Trust me.

How to build a Dining Table

And finally the table top.  Oh the darn table top.  This is actually a breeze to put together with a Kreg Jig IF you can find nice boards.  I seriously made 4 trips to different hardware stores to find boards straight enough to work with.  I actually ended up settling on 10 footers just to get good boards that would work.  Oh well!

You can see how I put pocket holes up and down the boards to connect them.  I clearly didn’t measure at all on this part… Just used the old eyeball method!

Pocket Holes for Table Top

Because my wood was acting up a bit, you can see where I used multiple pocket holes on the breadboard… I won.  It’s not going anywhere now.

Table Top Kreg Jig

I attached the base of the table to the top by using 2 1/2″ wood screws through the 2×4 runners.  I also used a few 4″ screws through the 4×4 base just for added strength.

And now for the finish!  Woohoo!

I decided to match the finish of the table to the Restoration Hardware sideboard and hutch I made for my dining room HERE.

I used Rustoleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Dark Walnut!  You can find it at Lowe’s, but do know that the packaging has changed a bit.


This stuff is so great!  It only requires 1 coat and it dries in under an hour.  I have used many stains, and this brand is BY FAR my very favorite!

Once it dried, I put 2 coats of Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane in Satin on it to protect the finish.  This goes on white and dries clear.  It doesn’t stink and it dries fast!


That’s it for the finish!

I am in the middle of making the cutest benches to match this table.  I LOVE a dining table with benches for my family.  The kids can’t ruin them, and they are rustic and beautiful at the same time.  I knew I wanted to dress the table up a bit with some end chairs, so I went to my very favorite store to find those!


HomeGoods Dining Chairs

I love them!  Ironically, they match my window panels I made perfectly.  It was a match made in dining room heaven… Or Homegoods!  Aren’t they perfect??

And here are a few more shots!

DIY Dining Table

Dining Table Wood

Pottery Barn Dining Table

Dining Table DIY

I hope you love it as much as I do!!

I would LOVE for you to share this and PIN it with your peeps below!

Thank you so much for stopping by, and let me know if you have any questions at all.  Thanks again 🙂



  1. Frank Alberta on February 16, 2015 at 9:20 am

    Love the table. Its just what I was looking for. I plan on making a concrete top for it though and making it a little longer. Any suggestions on going longer or adding an additional support in the middle?

  2. Randy Lifferth on January 5, 2015 at 12:57 pm

    I want to do this project, but I am wondering what type of wood did you use. I have been looking at hardwood and it is no where near your $100 price range.

    • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:21 pm

      she used pine…awful but very economical choice. In walnut, cherry or soft maple, this would run anywhere from $250 to $400 in our area, depending on the week I check prices

      • Adam on September 29, 2015 at 2:27 pm

        The whole idea of the blog is to be frugal. If you have any wood to pick from pine is obviously not your first choice, but you don’t need to be so derisive in your comments. Enjoy the blog for what it is.

        • Jen on September 29, 2015 at 3:47 pm

          I guess I didn’t feel like I was being derisive. I’ve never dissed the author, big fan of their work. I didn’t say the author was awful, I said PINE is awful. The poster didn’t see how she could get away with $100 budget, I let her know about a better choice and what it would cost. Lighten up 🙂

          • NonaMuss on May 21, 2016 at 12:21 pm

            Jen, appreciate the knowledge you have shared here. Went through the entire thread to view all of your comments. Tried clicking on your profile so I could follow your comments but it is private. Anyway you could share? Thanks.

          • Jen on May 22, 2016 at 7:34 am

            I maintain a private profile, but I mostly comment on scientific articles, for woodworking talk, find me on LumberJocks (screen name is Jenine)

  3. Jessica on December 29, 2014 at 8:45 pm

    Hello, did you make a specific bench to go with this table? Is there a link you could provide? It looks beautiful!

  4. Matt on November 24, 2014 at 3:11 pm

    What grit of sandpaper did you use to remove the stamp from the lumber company? I ran over it with 60 and it only faded it a bit. Any thoughts?

  5. J Fairbaugh on November 16, 2014 at 1:04 pm

    Hey! I’m curious about your Kreg Jig-ing. I have the smaller R3 Kreg Jig, up to 1 1/2 inches. I’m sure that will work for the table top, but any thoughts about the frame? I don’t have access to a Kreg HD…

  6. Christy on November 9, 2014 at 12:11 pm

    Hello. We are planning on building this table and we are having a hard time locating the wood that is needed for the table. We have been to a few lumber yards and they both said this lumber is very difficult to come by. Is this true? If so is there other wood that you would suggest? Thanks!

    • Shanty2Chic on November 9, 2014 at 12:25 pm

      I’m sorry about that. We are in Texas and have learned this is true based on location. I would stack 2×4 in place of 4×4. It will give you the chunky look. Just attach them together her with wood screws and glue. Hope this helps!

    • Michael Fallon on November 10, 2014 at 10:22 am

      I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

      • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2014 at 10:36 am

        2×4 here runs about $3.50 for an 8 ft board. 4×4 runs $13 for an 8 ft board so depending on location you could save money using 2×4.

        • The Rugged Rooster on January 8, 2016 at 3:10 pm

          Wow, wood is so cheap there! In Canada we pay 23.00 + 12% tax for one 4×4 8′ ft Length.

  7. Liberty with Vengeance on October 28, 2014 at 3:39 pm

    Is the 25 3/8″ dimension for the leg correct? Comparing the picture of the completed project and the picture of the cut legs, it seems the finished legs are quite a bit longer. I ask because I am doing this project now. Lined the legs up with a 4×4 and 2×4 on top. Seems like a really short table.

  8. Emily on October 3, 2014 at 11:33 am

    Hi, I would really like to build this table but I live in a rural town in the northeast about 3 hours from a HD or lowes. My local lumber yards carry all the wood in Douglas fur – do you think this would work? I know some people used fur for the 4×4’s but what about for the table top? Any ideas?

  9. Greg Goodall on September 23, 2014 at 9:36 am

    I made an “art studio” version of this table for my wife. 30″ tall by 30″ deep by 60″ wide. All supplies where available at Lowes in Palm Bay Florida. We used Minwax Weathered Oak stain. Other than buying a Kreg R3 Junior for about $40, the material costs where about $120.

  10. Carrie on August 17, 2014 at 2:29 pm

    Hi, I was wondering what kind of poly you used? In your description you said you used Satin but in the picture of the poly it says matte. I love the table, my husband and I just built one and I am getting ready to go buy the stain and finish! Thanks!

    • Shanty2Chic on August 17, 2014 at 3:59 pm

      Hi Carrie,
      I’m sorry for the mistake! I used matte 🙂

  11. Matt on August 5, 2014 at 1:12 pm

    For those of you thinking of copying this table, DON’T DO IT. As an
    experienced woodworker I can say 100% that whomever build this has no
    idea what they are doing. Literally everything done here is wrong.
    This table may look good now, but it will most definitely not last. You
    can copy the looks, but not the construction methods used here.

    – Pocket screws and butt joints are not appropriate joinery for a table
    of this size. They are way too weak. Glue on endgrain is absolutely
    useless and adds no structural value. The table will fall apart
    eventually. Mortise and tenon joinery is what should have been used
    instead. It’s not difficult but it will take a lot more time than
    pocket screws.
    – Wood moves with seasonal changes in humidity, on a
    flat sawn board that’s mostly across the width. You have to allow for
    it otherwise you will have issues. With the breadboard ends you have a
    cross-grain situation, the top will move, the bread boards will not. By
    screwing the beardboards on like what was done you’d constricted the
    wood from moving which will result in cracking/warping etc. Breadboards
    exist to prevent the top from warping. The proper way to add them is
    tongue and groove, with glue in a few inches in the middle and elongated
    screw holes/screws the rest of the way.
    – Pine is one of the the
    worst woods out there for finishing. It you just build this and slap
    some stain on it it will look terrible as it absorbs stain unevenly and
    blotches. You can’t sand that out, it’s in the wood. Two coats of poly
    is not enough. There are several better options for coloring and
    finishing pine, do your homework first.

    • Shanty2Chic on August 13, 2014 at 8:27 pm

      Thanks for your expertise Matt! We have been building furniture for years now and can tell you that they do hold up very well. But, you are also entitled to your opinion and you are free to build as you choose 🙂 We will continue to build the way we do, save money, time and have pretty furniture to show for it 🙂 Have a great day!

      • Scott on October 16, 2014 at 9:12 am

        Not to dredge up old comments, but Matt is right here. I have a table that my grandfather made using some of these techniques, and where they were used the table is falling apart. Of course, the table is also about 40 years old! Realistically, you’ll probably see this falling apart in 10-20 years, but for $100 that’s still pretty good!

      • dfb on January 16, 2015 at 11:04 pm

        Thanks for sharing your project details. Now that it’s been a year, how is your table faring? Did Matt ‘s prediction already come true or is your table still doing well? I’m considering my options.

        • Jim on March 8, 2015 at 9:26 am

          Mine cracked after 3 months.

    • Jamie on November 24, 2014 at 12:27 pm

      Sweet. Can you teach us how to do it better? This blog IS us doing our homework. What should we do differently while not breaking the budget?

    • Joe on January 2, 2015 at 7:02 am

      I built this table in June/July 2014. As stated by Matt, my wood has moved (I used Douglass Fir). The breadboards, which were even with the width of the table, now protrude out on both sides. Its as if the length of the breadboard increased while the table width remained the same. How can I fix this? I’m afraid if I cut it off, the wood will shrink back and then have a smaller width than the table on the breadboards.

      • Jim on March 8, 2015 at 9:30 am

        I have the same issue, as well as one of the long boards splitting along the whole length. Would love to do this a better way because we love the look of the breadboard ends.

        • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:16 pm

          bummer, yeah, she really needs to let people know about this problem in the plans. The more humidity in your area, the bigger the problem will be. You can reduce the expansion and contraction of the wood by finishing both sides of the top VERY well, but it won’t solve the problem. The best way to do it is to use a tongue and groove joint for the breadboards.

      • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:15 pm

        Joe, the breadboards didn’t get longer, the main table top is contracting. Wood always expands and contracts across the grain (so, width wise). Right now, it has contracted (because it is winter). The main table top will start to expand as soon as the weather warms up and the humidity rises. At that point, it may expand so much, it will rip apart because it is not allowed to move past the point where it is “locked” into the breadboard.

        Did you finish both sides with several coats of polyurethane? Finishing both sides will help reduce movement by as much as possible, because it will reduce the amount of moisture the wood is taking in and releasing… but it won’t solve the problem permanently. To do that, you will need to unscrew the breadboards, remove them, cut a tongue and groove and reinstall them correctly.

        You know the time has come to remove the breadboards when you see the main table top is even slightly wider than the breadboards. I mean, even 1/16″ of an inch beyond them is a big red flag that they are pulling HARD and they will keep going until something gives (either a board cracks or a joint opens up).

        • Joe on March 15, 2015 at 8:07 am

          Jen, thank you so much for the reply. I will make the tongue and groove joint between the breadboard and main table. How long do you recommend the tongue be? 1 inch?

          Also, do I need to fix the joints between the four planks making up the table top as well? Or can I leave them joined with pocket screws? I’m assuming I can leave them since as you said, the wood contracts and expands across the grain.

          • Jen on March 16, 2015 at 3:04 pm

            Hm, I left you a long reply yesterday but it isn’t showing up yet, hopefully soon!

    • Frank Alberta on February 16, 2015 at 10:03 am

      I want to use this frame for a concrete table top I am making and I was nervous about the screw and glue construction. I love the look. Any suggestions on a jig to cut the mortise and tenon joints for a first time table maker?

      • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:06 pm

        Do you own a router, Frank? I used a router to cut many mortise and tenon joints before finally purchasing a mortising machine. Happy to walk you through the process if you like.

        • Ryan on July 4, 2016 at 9:05 am

          Hi Jen,
          I’m building this table and want to make sure I’m doing all of the joinery the right way. I have a router and want to cut mortise and tenon joints – could you go through the process? I’ve done a good bit of research, but some advice as it pertains to this specific project would be incredibly helpful. Thanks!

    • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:03 pm

      I also agree with Matt…I was just looking at this (absolutely GORGEOUS) table and as I glanced through the photos, I was cringing at most (ok, all) of the construction methods. However (and, this is a BIG however), this blog isn’t written for those with fine woodworking skills. If the author needed to go from store to store to buy straight lumber instead of milling her own using a jointer and planer, then she probably isn’t a contributing member at FWW. So, I would say she is doing just fine for her followers 🙂

      A through mortise and tenon for the trestle would be worlds better than two kreg screws, sure! That said, your average DIYer doesn’t know what a through mortise and tenon is, let alone how to cut one (I have been woodworking for many, many years, and mine still need work!).

      All that said, there are a few tips that those building this table can follow to at least help them along, without asking them to become professional woodworkers to get there.

      To everyone who wants to know if she used treated lumber – DO NOT USE TREATED LUMBER, the author didn’t and neither should you! Treated lumber is for OUTSIDE only, and should only be used for projects your skin and food won’t be touching. It stands up well to the elements, but it is 100% toxic!

      A breadboard end that is SCREWED on (someone fix the hole in my heart) will absolutely fail for the reasons other people stated. You would be better off not doing the breadboards so the top can expand and contract. This will lead to many fewer cracks in your table top…or worse…straight up broken joints with screws showing.

      If you love the look of breadboards (who doesn’t!?) research methods for joining them in a way that won’t cause the top of the table to crack. You can cut a tongue and groove joint with a router and edge guide…or you can just make the breadboards aesthetic by attaching them with dowels. They won’t do what they are designed to do like that, but neither will these, so it’s a wash and at least you won’t be actively causing problems.

      Tape is not a clamp. Not ever. You are not getting enough clamping force with them. Not. Even. Close. Lots of good ideas on the internet for clamping crazy angles though 🙂

      Try to avoid using wood with a cathedral grain pattern (her second from the right in the photo that has the “wood acting up” caption). Cathedral grain = the board is going to cup like CRAZY (google “wood grain board stability” and “cathedral grain face grain cupping”). So, that coupled with poor joinery = joint/board failure for sure.

      Pine does accept stain poorly…use a pre-stain conditioner first to help eliminate that problem as best as you can.

  12. Peter Dallman on May 23, 2014 at 12:01 pm

    I’m going to be building two of these tables and benches in the next couple weeks, my question is about the wood. I live in the Pacific Northwest and can access all the wood at pretty inexpensive prices. But the $100-150 price tag has me scratching my head a bit. I can get all the lumber at that price, with the exception of the 4×4 IF they need to be kiln dried. Kiln dried 4×4 are going for over $3.00 a liniar foot.
    So..Round about question. Is everyone who builds these using green lumber? My concern about that is that when it dries it could twist and crack.
    All the other lumber is readily available kiln dried and inexpensive…Except for the 4×4’s.

    • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:23 pm

      Do NOT use green wood!!!! You NEED kiln dried! For the reasons you stated 🙂 It will check, crack, warp, twist and go all kinds of crazy on you!

  13. Ashley on May 1, 2014 at 8:03 am

    Quick question – did you use Rustoleum Ultimate polyurethane in SATIN or MATTE? You said you used satin but the picture you show is matte. Just want to make sure I get it right as we are finishing up this weekend! Thanks!!

  14. Corey on April 14, 2014 at 8:55 pm

    I just built this and stained the table using the exact same stain.. however, I think I left the stain on far too long and now my table looks horrible. Is there any way to remedy the mistake? Can i completely re-sand the project and start over or will the stain penetrate the wood too far to sand? Thanks!

    • Jen on March 14, 2015 at 10:18 pm

      you can sand and start over! use a pre-stain conditioner before staining pine…you might not have done anything wrong. pine takes stain horribly, can turn out very blotchy!

  15. RL on March 7, 2014 at 7:35 am

    Awesome job on the table! Can’t wait to build one! one thing I find works for clamping odd angles, is to use a few scrap wood blocks and hot glue them to the pieces I need to clamp, and then put the clamps on the blocks or next to them. Once done the blocks can be knocked off with a hammer and the glue scraped off with a chisel. Also, you can clamp using a rope and the blocks. Wrap the rope around the boards and then twist the rope with a strong dowel, etc.

  16. Liz Jones on March 1, 2014 at 8:49 am


    I love this table! I will be attempting to make it soon. It’s so cute! On another note, I LOVE the paint color in this room. Would you mind sharing what it is? 🙂

  17. Francoise on February 24, 2014 at 11:17 am

    Would be an awesome desk for my new office. You did an amazing job. Any chance you post a list of materials? That would be awesome. Thanks so much.

  18. Molly Maple on January 2, 2014 at 4:41 pm

    We just made the table, but the hub decided to widen and slightly lengthen the plans. We couldn’t find 4x4s down here in SC out of pine, but Berlin G Myers (for anyone in the Charleston area) had other (more expensive) wood. We chose poplar, which is very porous and so I treated it twice with wood conditioner before staining. It looks phenomenal! Thank you so much for posting this – we love our new table!!!

    • tony on January 17, 2014 at 10:44 pm

      I like the size of your table. Whats the size?

    • Shanty2Chic on August 13, 2014 at 8:32 pm

      I just saw this Molly!! LOVE!!!

    • Jeremy Savoy on September 7, 2016 at 12:47 pm

      Wow this is beautiful!! Just curious — did you have the wood milled, it looks very precise which usually means custom milled by yourself or a mill, versus buying dimensional lumber from a big box store. Second — I’ve made some furniture using poplar but always have to either just clear coat it (after a shellac-ing), or paint it — I’ve tried 9 ways to Sunday to stain poplar from Lowes and it just doesn’t take the stain. Tried conditioners, gels, etc but it just looks splotchy. I’m wondering what your exact process was here, and wondering how your table is holding up 3 years in.

  19. Ardi Bradlee on December 9, 2013 at 2:12 am

    Simply adorable. I wonder if I made it myself. Choosing a best quality material is essential and you would make it more innovative by adding your own creative ideas. Thanks Shanty 2 chic. Just a lovable post.

  20. Christina Newkirk on November 12, 2013 at 11:45 am

    this table is beautiful! and i am sying to make it. like, this weekend. lol BUT i need to know what type of wood you used?! treated, untreated?? pine, cedar? we have looked all over for untreated and no one has it! 🙁 is this something we MUST use?? please reply! im making this so we can have a thanksgiving dinner at our new home. 🙂

    • Stephen Carpi on March 28, 2016 at 8:22 am

      Hi Christina, never use treated wood for projects that will come into contact with food. In fact, I don’t use treated wood for anything that will remain indoors. Though they stopped using arsenic years ago, there are still harsh chemicals that they pressure treat the wood with that you wouldn’t want to be breathing in on a daily basis. Leave the treated wood for decks and patios.

      A table of this size should be made of something semi-hard. You don’t have to go all the way to oak, but pine would certainly be the softest I would use. Ash, cedar, etc. may be a bit too soft to bear the day to day abuse a table like this would get.

    • Bill Hardin on December 6, 2017 at 9:19 pm

      depending on where you live, its hard to find untreated pine, and pine will warp for you, cedar is a good choice, it will be darker than the pine table top. douglass fur, it more than cedar, it will stain up the same color as your pine table top, ideal is western cedar, good look, look up jamison rogue engineer, he made a kitchen table out of western cedar. if you live near a place that cells cypress is a pretty look. i live in knoxville tenn, i am boing to go with douglass fur, my 4×4 will cost me 50.00 each, but it will look good. hope this will help you.

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