Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free plans.



And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes. You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon. Watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig video HERE!

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces. Watch our How to use a Miter Saw video HERE!

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill! You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot


legs-assembledNow, the legs

add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. (You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon) Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. (You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon).

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it 🙂




Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years 🙂  You can click the images for the tutorials!







  1. Bethany Bonell on November 16, 2014 at 10:23 am

    What are the dimensions of the finished table?

  2. Robert Zamaro on November 11, 2014 at 2:05 pm

    I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    • Shanty2Chic on November 11, 2014 at 2:41 pm

      Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours 🙂

    • Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:03 am

      Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      • Robert Zamaro on November 22, 2014 at 9:56 am

        Hey Jarmar 🙂 Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know 🙂 Thank you Jarmar.

        • Towanda on December 7, 2014 at 8:57 am

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?


        • Towanda on December 7, 2014 at 9:03 am

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?


        • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:05 pm

          What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:12 pm

            Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.

          • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:17 pm

            maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:22 pm

            Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?

          • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:26 pm

            Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:32 pm

            So sorry! I’ll make a quick edit. Thank you!!

        • Jeremy on February 9, 2015 at 7:42 pm


          I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.

          I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?

          2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?

          Thanks so much!

          • Robert Zamaro on February 9, 2015 at 8:08 pm


            Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!

          • Jeremy on February 10, 2015 at 5:03 am

            Awesome, thanks so much; I really appreciate it!

          • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:18 pm

            I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.

            Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.

            How long was your bench?


          • Eric on July 20, 2017 at 1:00 pm

            Hey Robert,

            Where did you find 4x4s that were pine and not treated wood?



          • Robert Zamaro on July 21, 2017 at 4:57 am

            Hey Eric, so what I did was get two 2×4’s since true untreated 4×4 are hard to find in my area. I ripped an 1/8″ off the edges on my 2×4 to get rid of the round over and glued the two together to make a 4×4. However it’s also not a true 4×4 but it worked for me. So in the end it was a 3 1/4″X3″ (aka 4×4) haha. If you need any additional help or tips. You can reach me at [email protected]. I would be more than happy to help. Knowledge is free. Cheers. Rob

        • Jeremy on March 8, 2015 at 7:50 pm

          Hey Robert,

          I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
          To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?


    • Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:18 am

      beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!

    • Jose Durangomez on March 30, 2015 at 12:34 am

      Hello Robert,
      Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
      Thank you for posting

    • Shawn on May 24, 2015 at 3:16 pm

      What type poly did you use?

      • Robert Zamaro on May 25, 2015 at 6:55 am

        Shawn, I just used minwax semi gloss poly and used about 8 layers. Sanding inbetween each layer.

    • Trisha Elisabeth on July 23, 2016 at 7:47 am

      What stain did you use for this table Robert? It’s beautiful!

    • Jesse Taylor on October 18, 2016 at 7:26 pm

      I plan on doing this table like you have it as well. it looks amazing side note, you dont have the plans for the side table behind it? do it?

    • Andrew on April 23, 2017 at 8:00 pm

      Hey Robert,

      Nice work here! Quick question regarding the 1/8th” rip on either side of your 2x6s. Did you find that the table wasn’t’t wide enough then? Did you compensate at all for that loss being that the plan doesn’t call for that? Doing the math the table would only be 39 1/4 wide then?


  3. JK John Hitman on November 11, 2014 at 12:08 am

    So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    • Robert Zamaro on November 11, 2014 at 7:31 pm

      I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      • Shanty2Chic on November 11, 2014 at 7:46 pm

        Great tip, Robert!!!

      • Emilee Anderson on February 10, 2015 at 6:46 am

        Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.

  4. Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 10:54 am

    Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2014 at 11:13 am

      No, a 12″ is needed for that.

      • Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 11:15 am


      • Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 6:10 pm

        Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?

        • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2014 at 6:19 pm

          Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them 🙂

    • Ryan on December 23, 2015 at 9:23 am

      Can use a 10″ if you flip the 4×4 to finish the cut.

      • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 9:30 am

        Yes, you can flip to cut the 4×4 with a 10″ blade.

  5. Michael Fallon on November 10, 2014 at 10:34 am

    I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    • Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:06 am

      Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?

      • Michael Fallon on November 17, 2014 at 12:55 pm

        Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

  6. Shannon on November 6, 2014 at 6:55 pm

    What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 8:32 am

      We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps 🙂

  7. Justin on November 4, 2014 at 4:40 pm


    What were the foot pads dimensions?


    • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 8:32 am

      Hey Justin,
      The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.

      • Justin on November 7, 2014 at 11:45 am

        Thanks, and about how thick??

        • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 12:31 pm

          1x 🙂 just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″

  8. Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:16 pm

    Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    • Shanty2Chic on October 27, 2014 at 3:18 pm

      Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games 😉

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:22 pm


      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:23 pm

        the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?

      • Kristin on April 23, 2015 at 10:13 pm

        Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!

  9. Richelle K on September 24, 2014 at 12:30 pm

    I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

    • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 8:55 pm

      I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol

  10. Justin Camblin on September 16, 2014 at 6:27 am

    Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 16, 2014 at 6:37 am

      Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

  11. Vanessa Williams on September 9, 2014 at 10:49 pm

    I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:52 am

      Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work 🙂

      • Vanessa Williams on September 14, 2014 at 1:24 pm

        Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks

        • Vanessa Williams on September 14, 2014 at 1:46 pm

          Working on benches now!

          • Shanty2Chic on September 16, 2014 at 6:39 am

            Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  12. Michael Fallon on September 8, 2014 at 9:51 am

    Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:52 am

      Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!

  13. Lina Beers on September 5, 2014 at 11:39 am

    are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:53 am

      Hi Lina,
      There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it 🙂

  14. John Hack on September 3, 2014 at 7:13 pm

    So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:55 am

      Hi John!
      Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?

      • John Hack on September 10, 2014 at 6:03 am

        OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.

        • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 6:10 am

          Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it 🙂

          • John Hack on September 11, 2014 at 6:45 pm

            Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
            PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.

          • Shanty2Chic on September 11, 2014 at 6:50 pm

            Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! 🙂 thanks so much for sharing!

          • Michael Fallon on November 10, 2014 at 10:16 am

            Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?

  15. Steve on August 27, 2014 at 12:18 pm

    So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.

    Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?

    • Shanty2Chic on August 27, 2014 at 12:20 pm

      Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!

      • Steve on August 27, 2014 at 12:28 pm

        Thanks I’ll try it!

  16. Debbra Tackett on August 25, 2014 at 12:32 pm

    but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:56 am

      thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post 🙂

  17. rjcross on August 25, 2014 at 12:01 pm

    I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
    I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
    Do you have any pros and cons to either?
    And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
    The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:56 am

      Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…

  18. KPresley on August 6, 2014 at 9:55 am

    Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!

  19. digital_andrew on August 5, 2014 at 7:43 pm

    Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on August 5, 2014 at 8:32 pm

      Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!

  20. Lane Cook on July 20, 2014 at 7:41 am

    Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.

    • Shanty2Chic on July 20, 2014 at 7:48 am

      You can do that if you would like 🙂

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