Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110
Hey there! I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house. This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house! You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram! Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Man I love this table! The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110! Wow, wow, wow! I still can’t believe it!
***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***
Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you! Just click the image below or HERE for the free plans.
And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own! I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money. They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!
Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table
I started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!
I used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes. You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon. Watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig video HERE!
And, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.
Easy! Ready for trim!
Make sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.
I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces. Watch our How to use a Miter Saw video HERE!
Here’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.
And, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander. I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough. I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.
Too attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD. It’s super easy, clamp and drill! You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.
Here is the stretcher and the feet assembled. Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher
and add the short feet.
Add the foot pads to each foot
Now, the legs
Then, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs. I used 2 1/2″ spax screws. They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!
Here are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***
I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. (You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon) Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.
I wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over. I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).
I did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. (You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon).
LOVE it 🙂
Now I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room! I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!
Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!
Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley
Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?
You can find out about the paint colors HERE!
I shared the flooring HERE!
The chandelier HERE!
DIY Bar Cart HERE!
Pottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!
And we have built a TON of tables over the years 🙂 You can click the images for the tutorials!
What are the dimensions of the finished table?
I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.
Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours 🙂
Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?
Hey Jarmar 🙂 Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know 🙂 Thank you Jarmar.
I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?
Beautiful
I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?
Beautiful
What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?
Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.
maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear
Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?
Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!
So sorry! I’ll make a quick edit. Thank you!!
Robert,
I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.
I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?
2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?
Thanks so much!
Jeremy,
Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!
Awesome, thanks so much; I really appreciate it!
I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.
Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.
How long was your bench?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Hey Robert,
Where did you find 4x4s that were pine and not treated wood?
Thanks,
Eric
Hey Eric, so what I did was get two 2×4’s since true untreated 4×4 are hard to find in my area. I ripped an 1/8″ off the edges on my 2×4 to get rid of the round over and glued the two together to make a 4×4. However it’s also not a true 4×4 but it worked for me. So in the end it was a 3 1/4″X3″ (aka 4×4) haha. If you need any additional help or tips. You can reach me at [email protected]. I would be more than happy to help. Knowledge is free. Cheers. Rob
Hey Robert,
I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?
Thanks,
Jeremy
beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!
Hello Robert,
Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
Thank you for posting
What type poly did you use?
Shawn, I just used minwax semi gloss poly and used about 8 layers. Sanding inbetween each layer.
What stain did you use for this table Robert? It’s beautiful!
I plan on doing this table like you have it as well. it looks amazing side note, you dont have the plans for the side table behind it? do it?
Hey Robert,
Nice work here! Quick question regarding the 1/8th” rip on either side of your 2x6s. Did you find that the table wasn’t’t wide enough then? Did you compensate at all for that loss being that the plan doesn’t call for that? Doing the math the table would only be 39 1/4 wide then?
Thanks!
So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.
I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.
Great tip, Robert!!!
Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.
Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?
No, a 12″ is needed for that.
Thanks!
Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?
Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them 🙂
Can use a 10″ if you flip the 4×4 to finish the cut.
Yes, you can flip to cut the 4×4 with a 10″ blade.
I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.
Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?
Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.
What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?
We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps 🙂
Hello,
What were the foot pads dimensions?
Thanks!
Hey Justin,
The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.
Thanks, and about how thick??
1x 🙂 just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″
Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?
Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games 😉
amazing!
Thank you Glynnis 😉
the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?
Just the wood 🙂
Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!
I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!
I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol
Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?
Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.
I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks
Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work 🙂
Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks
Working on benches now!
Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing 🙂
Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.
Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!
are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?
Hi Lina,
There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it 🙂
So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?
Hi John!
Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?
OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.
Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it 🙂
Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.
Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! 🙂 thanks so much for sharing!
Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?
So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.
Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?
Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!
Thanks I’ll try it!
but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!
thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post 🙂
I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
Do you have any pros and cons to either?
And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”
Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…
Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!
Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks
Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!
Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.
You can do that if you would like 🙂