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Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free plans.

click-for-free-plans

restoration-dining-table-plans

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes. You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon. Watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig video HERE!

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces. Watch our How to use a Miter Saw video HERE!

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill! You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot

foot-pads

legs-assembledNow, the legs

add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. (You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon) Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. (You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon).

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it 🙂

Free-Dining-Table-Plans

DIY-Dining-Table

How-to-build-a-dining-table

Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years 🙂  You can click the images for the tutorials!

diy-round-table

DIY-Dining-Table

DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired

diy-wooden-dining-table

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335 Comments

  1. Keith Webster on March 30, 2015 at 5:26 pm

    just went today and bought all the wood to make the table. Was wondering if anyone had a cut list for the legs of the table thank you

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:32 am

      they’re on the PDF file attached to this site

  2. joe barry on March 29, 2015 at 10:11 am

    How long should this project take to do?

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:33 am

      depends on how much time you have lol. It took me a couple months just doing a little bit here are there. You can easily do it in a weekend if you don’t have any interruptions

  3. Cellar_Muse on March 26, 2015 at 10:51 pm

    Finally completed & delivered. The customer and I are really happy with the final result. Put 4 coats of Cabot “midnight” stain/sealer & 3 coats of rustoleum matte polyurethane.

    Thank you for Sharing this Design !

    • Shanty2Chic on March 27, 2015 at 6:12 am

      It’s beautiful and I LOVE the finish! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  4. Chanel Ward on March 6, 2015 at 11:28 am

    What are the final dimensions of this finished table? Height, length, and width?

  5. Nicole Dyan Rapp on March 4, 2015 at 10:14 pm

    Could a Kreg Mini work for the 1×6’s?

    • Jeremy on March 8, 2015 at 7:51 pm

      I think the mini would work for the 1x6s. Much cheaper than the full jig too.

  6. Chelsie on March 4, 2015 at 4:22 pm

    Starting this project next week! I would love to know an alternative to using the Kig HD, I just bought the smaller one to help keep down on cost but I read a comment that the smaller one wouldnt work on the 4×4. Any advice would be helpful!! Thanks 🙂

  7. Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 9:14 pm

    can I use the Kreg mini for the 4x4s ? I have had to purchase many tools for this project anyways so if I can save a few $$ I would rather get the cheaper one.

    This is the one I am referring to:

    http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1423710632&sr=8-5&keywords=kreg+jig

    Thanks!

    • Shanty2Chic on February 11, 2015 at 9:22 pm

      Hey Jeremy,
      Unfortunately you need the HD for the 4×4’s…

      • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 9:42 pm

        Ok thanks. One more question: What if I take the slide out of my K4 ? Can I just clamp that to the 4×4 and do it that way?
        Thanks again.

        • Shanty2Chic on February 11, 2015 at 9:54 pm

          We haven’t tried that. I would try it on some scrap pieces first! Worth a shot 🙂

        • Chelsie on March 4, 2015 at 4:30 pm

          Jeremy how did that turn out for you? Im in the same predicament! Those things are pricey!

          • Jeremy on March 7, 2015 at 2:32 pm

            Well the short answer: it’s easier to buy the other jig.

            Long answer: I messed around with a scrap 4×4 block for about 30 minutes and was able to get the k4 jig block in a spot where the screw came through to an ok spot, but not to the center of the joint, which is what kreg suggests is the best placement. However, the hole wasn’t deep enough because the jig has to be so high on the wood. So after drilling the hole, I had to take the jig off and manually drill even further until I got deep enough to where I thought was good. It’s all trial and error and there’s no real exact way to know how deep is good enough. But the drill bit is surprisingly more fragile than I thought and I broke on me when I was doing manual drilling – just snapped right in half.

            So after about a full hour of messing around with it and breaking my boy, I had enough and ordered the other jig. I did some test holes with the new jig and it gets the hole close to the center of the joint, but not 100% there. It looked close to what I was able to get with my trial and error method. The good thing about the jig is that it came with HD screws and a bigger drill bit to accommodate them.

            If you want to try with the k4 jig, go ahead. But I would recommend getting the other jig as well. That way you’ll be able to use the HD screws (the k4 jig hole isn’t big enough for the HD screw drill bit). And you’ll save a lot of time without having to trial and error it. And you won’t curse nearly as much lol. Good luck!



  8. Matt Kopp on January 16, 2015 at 1:55 pm

    I’ve been checking with Home Depot and Lowes and I have not been able to find 4x4x8′ Pine or whitewood posts. I’ve only been able to find Cedar, Fir or Pressure Treated. Would you recommend using cedar or fir for this or is there somewhere else I should look? I’m going to go to a local lumber store and check there but I have not been able to yet.

    • Jeremy on February 10, 2015 at 5:02 am

      I looked in my whole area and finally found a lowe’s that had it. It was the only lowe’s in the area that even carried it. You may have to call all the stores in your area or go to an actual lumber yard.

    • Emilee Anderson on February 10, 2015 at 6:33 am

      I have called every lumber/home improvement store within 50 miles of me and no one has access to untreated 4×4 pine!

    • Josh Rothman on March 8, 2016 at 7:02 pm

      Home Depot has untreated Douglas Fir 4×4, which is superior to the red pine 4×4 commonly found pressure-treated, as it is much less likely to twist when drying. Fir is second only to yellow pine in strength among easily-available softwoods, and is a whole lot lighter and easier to work with. I’ve found the fir 4x4s to be dry and straight every time I’ve bought them, and surprisingly inexpensive too. Cedar is nice to work with and smells good, but it’s too soft for furniture unless you’re really skilled at joinery. Oh, yeah, one other thing: watch out for splinters when working with fir.

  9. Mike Lopez on January 14, 2015 at 6:02 pm

    Anyone know how to attach the top to the legs? I’m actually making the fancy x table but that one didn’t specify how to attach the top the the legs either

    • Cellar_Muse on March 26, 2015 at 10:54 pm

      The top attaches to the legs via pocket screws.

  10. Victor E on January 9, 2015 at 9:03 am

    gonna have to give this a try this winter. also, i saw a matching wine rack in one of the pics…where are the plans for that?

  11. Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:28 am

    I love this table and have been eyeing it up for some time on your site! Beautiful. I am curious to know how chairs fit in? Does it comfortably fit 2 chairs in the middle between the legs or is it tight?

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:13 pm

      Thanks! Two should fit comfortably. I have a bench in each side with chairs on the end. Bench plans are linked at the top of the post!

  12. john grosse on January 5, 2015 at 12:36 pm

    When i completed building the table, the table top has some flex to it in the corners when you put some weight on it which pushes the other corners up/down. how did you/can you remove the flex? i used a nail gun for practically everything.

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:15 pm

      Hi John,
      I don’t have that issue with mind. I used pocket holes and glue. Maybe this is what is causing it? Did you use glue?

  13. charissa on January 4, 2015 at 9:15 am

    Love this table, had my husband build it. Here’s the problem with it though. Unless you are planning on building the benches to go with it, it’s an impractical table. With a regular chair, it is difficult to get in and out because the X-cross beams block free movement of your legs. Also, it is difficult to space regular chairs under the X-cross beams as is shown in one of the pictures below. Wish I had known this before and that someone had mentioned this issue. Do not want to have a “picnic table” sitting in our dining room, so sadly, I think this table will end up outside after my husband builds the benches. Just wanted to give an honest heads-up to anyone considering this build.

  14. Cory on January 3, 2015 at 7:24 pm

    Hi there! My husband & I just built this but have not yet attached the top to the legs. I can’t seem to find in the directions how to drill the pocket holes when attaching the top– it’s very vague. Any help would be great appreciated!

    • Gale on February 9, 2015 at 2:12 am

      I skipped the Kreg PH and simply drilled two holes from each end top piece 6 in total and used Gold 2 Inch screws. Worked like a charm

  15. Matt Hayward on January 3, 2015 at 1:06 am

    Hello, Quick question… the HD Pocket Holes in the vertical 4×4 legs, do you leave them open since Kreg doesn’t make plugs that big or do you have a tip for hiding them? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:24 pm

      They will be pretty well hidden with the angle pieces but I also filled them with wood filler!

  16. Lauren Norris on December 9, 2014 at 10:02 pm

    We just finished our table and are in love with it! Thank you for providing the plans 🙂

    • Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:20 am

      beautiful! nice job

    • Blake on October 6, 2015 at 5:50 pm

      I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff

  17. Michael Fallon on December 4, 2014 at 7:53 am

    Here are my pics. Went 8′. Noticing my top planks are pulling away from the 2×4 frame. Must not have been completely dry. Will likely need to fill in a bit with wood filler once it settles. Luckily my finish is already a bit “distressed” (not on purpose). Very happy with the results though.

  18. Kara on December 3, 2014 at 9:58 am

    How big is the final product of this table? I am looking for a table that is 3×6 and am hoping that this is the approximate size of this table?

    • Robert Zamaro on January 7, 2015 at 9:20 am

      The exact size of this table is W: 3′ 5 1/2″ x L: 7′ 3″ H: 2′ 7 1/4″. This is according to the plans. Hope this helped. 🙂

  19. Brandi Pifer on November 30, 2014 at 4:07 pm

    Would this table be okay painted?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 30, 2014 at 4:10 pm

      Yes 🙂 just make sure to put a poly on it!

  20. Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:16 am

    Could I use untreated Douglas Fir for the 4x4s? It’s the only untreated 4x4s I can find at HD…

    • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 8:53 pm

      the stain may not take the same. for some reason untreated pine 4x4s are really hard to find! I had to call around for a while before I found some and they weren’t in the best shape — looked decent after a good sanding with 60 grit sandpaper though

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