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Easy DIY Platform Bed

This Easy DIY Platform Bed is the perfect build for beginners! Get the free plans and how-to tutorial at www.shanty-2-chic.com!

I’m back to share the Easy DIY Platform Bed that I made for my son 🙂 If you missed the Free Plans for the Planked Headboard, you can check them out HERE! I saw a platform bed in a West Elm catalog and loved how chunky the base and platform were, so that was my inspiration and I built it for about $55!!!

CLICK HERE TO JUMP TO THE FREE PRINTABLE PLANS
Easy-DIY-Platform-Bed

This is a VERY EASY piece to build so it is perfect if you are a beginner! Here’s how I built it! This plan is for a full size bed but it is very easy to adjust the measurements to accommodate another size 🙂

Easy DIY Platform Bed

make-cuts

I started by making all of my cuts for my top and bottom frame. Watch our How to Use a Miter Saw video HERE!

drill-pocket-holes

Then, I drilled all of my pocket holes with my Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ thick boards. (You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon) and check out our How to Use a Kreg Jig Video HERE!

top-frame

I attached the top frame with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws

bottom-frame

and did the same for the bottom frame.

attach-bottom-frame

Next, I flipped the top frame over and attached the bottom frame to it with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

attach-center-support

I flipped it back over and attached the center support with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. You may need help flipping the bed back over, at this point, because it is heavy.

attach-cleats

Finally, I attached the 2×3 cleats with 2 1/2″ wood screws (I call for 2×2 in the plans because 2×3’s are not available in every region.  If you do use 2×2’s for the cleats, get furring strips to save money). I like to use the Spax self-tapping screws. I find them at Home Depot and they are pricey but you don’t need to pre-drill with them!  If you use regular wood screws, make sure to pre-drill first to prevent the wood from splitting.

Rustoleum_Dark_Walnut

To finish, I applied one-coat of Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut Stain (you can find it HERE on Amazon). If you are buying your supplies at Home Depot, get the Varathane brand in Dark Walnut (it’s the same stain).

add-slats

When the bed was dry, the hubs and I took it inside and into our little man’s room!  I used my brad nailer to attach the 1×3 slats.  I just spaced them out evenly and attached them to both cleats and the center support. You can use the cheap furring strips for this part, Just make sure they are smooth so they don’t tear-up your mattress.

slats-added

To attach the headboard to the bed, I drilled 2 1/2″ spax screws from the backside of the headboard legs into the bottom and top frames of the platform.

Platform-Bed-Plans
how-to-build-a-platform-bed
Easy-DIY-Platform-Bed

I just love it so much and I’ve overheard our 11-year-old bragging to his friends (on a few occasions) that his mom built his bed – which is the best part for me 😉

Don’t forget to check out the headboard plans HERE and if you like the wall color in his room (I’m obsessed!) you can read about it HERE! I have received a lot of questions about the quilt on his bed, it is from Pottery Barn Teen but, I bought it a couple of years ago so I’m not sure that it is still available.

Thanks so much for stopping by!

~Ashley

DIY Platform Bed

This Easy DIY Platform Bed is the perfect build for beginners! Make sure to click the link below to download and print the full set of plans with the cut list!
https://www.shanty-2-chic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/DIY-Platform-Bed.pdf
Author: Shanty2Chic

Supply List

  • 8 1x3x10
  • 1 2x8x10
  • 2 2x8x8
  • 3 2x6x8
  • 1 2x4x8
  • 3 2x2x8
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Finish of Choice

Instructions

  • Cut List
  • Assemble the bed upside down. Start with the top frame. Use glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws at each connection.
  • Assemble the lower frame. Make sure the edge pocket holes are facing the same direction.
  • Lay the top frame on the floor with the pocket holes facing up and stack the lower frame on top. Secure them together with pocket hole screws.
  • Attach the 2×2 cleats to the sides and the center 2×4 support in the middle. The 2×2 cleats are just screwed into the bed frame with wood screws and the 2×4 support is secured with pocket hole screws on each end. All three of these pieces should be 3/4″ lower than the top of the top frame.
  • Add your slats and the construction is done! Now, all you have to do is sand and finish as you wish and enjoy your new platform bed. This platform bed was made for a previous headboard that I also made. Search our site for “Planked Headboard” to see it. As always, if you decide to make this bed be sure share it on social media and use #shanty2chic so we can share it too!

182 Comments

  1. manon on August 25, 2015 at 2:58 pm

    can someone convert me the lenghts in centimers? please!!

    • Jim on May 25, 2020 at 6:33 am

      Most smart phones can convert the values for you

  2. Trina Hoover on August 20, 2015 at 4:12 pm

    We did two of these and we are totally 2 novices. This was a great first project… and we did them in twin size taking 15″ off of the width.

  3. Ted on August 14, 2015 at 1:26 pm

    Does anyone know if the 2 by 8 by 10 foot if both pieces of the 10 foot,are cut at 52 inches ( is there 2 pieces at 52inches)of the 10foot 2by 8

  4. Carter on August 6, 2015 at 9:45 pm

    Did you sand the wood before staining it?

  5. Jillian on June 28, 2015 at 12:32 pm

    Do you happen to have the headboard instructions?

  6. I wanted to splurge! on June 8, 2015 at 2:05 pm

    I had several screws come out through the other side of my wood. I had my KREG set at 1 1/2 and I used 2 1/2 inch screws, so not sure what I did wrong 🙁

    • Shanty2Chic on June 8, 2015 at 2:07 pm

      Did you set the depth collar on the bit?

      • I wanted to splurge! on June 9, 2015 at 9:29 am

        Yes, I did

  7. Rich on May 30, 2015 at 1:32 pm

    After constructing this bed and reading some of the comments, I think if you included dimensions, instead of leaving it to a lot of guess work, the project would not be so challenging for some folks. Just sayin. Anyway the bed turned out great. Thanks.

  8. Kelsie MacKenzie on May 21, 2015 at 1:24 pm

    I don’t have a nail gun. Should I use wood screws or just regular nails with a hammer? Thanks!

  9. Emily Slominski on May 13, 2015 at 11:51 am

    I am new to diy, but I’m looking for easy projects to take on to save money for when me and my boyfriend get our own place. I love your plans and they are so easy to follow and of course turn out incredible. I have been desperately looking for a bed frame for my bed. It is a queen tempurpedic on an adjustable motorized frame. So there is a motor located vertically in the center supported by a 40″ by 58″ metal frame. The upholstered outer frame is currently 4″ from the ground with the metal frame being 8″ front the ground. would love a wood frame for our bed to sit in. Storage is not a necessity but I do want it to have the platform framed in wood look. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

  10. Aaron on April 28, 2015 at 11:36 am

    If I were modifying the plan for a California King, would I use the same dimensions as a King by adding 22″ to the width and 5″ to the length?

    • Shanty2Chic on May 20, 2015 at 12:56 pm

      Yes, but a Cali King is longer. You can google mattress dimensions and see the exact measurements.

      • Pete on October 7, 2015 at 3:48 pm

        Wouldn’t the length to increase be, 18″ to the width and 9″ to the length, being a Cal King is 72×84? I am about to start on this platform for my Cal King and just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something here. Awesome job on the platform and plans btw!! Thank you sooo much for posting all the pictures and plans. I can’t wait to get this thing built.

        • Shanty2Chic on October 7, 2015 at 3:51 pm

          Yes, you will make it wider and longer based on a Cal King measurement. The plans are for a full size mattress 🙂

          • Pete on October 7, 2015 at 4:02 pm

            Thank You again Shanty2Chic; YOU ROCK!!!



  11. Laura Tilus on April 2, 2015 at 7:38 am

    lol nvm just saw the “here” linlk 🙂

  12. Laura Tilus on April 2, 2015 at 7:37 am

    I’m a little late to the party.

    Is there a separate post on the headboard?

  13. Kate on March 31, 2015 at 1:40 pm

    Hi! Thanks for the plans and the inspiration. My 13 year old son and I are going to try to make this together. We visited our Home Depot this weekend, however, they did not have the white board or pine in these large sizes – only for the slats. We had to purchase framing boards instead (Douglas fir). I’m hoping it will look as great as yours. Unfortunately, my cost to build is already $150 (including the device to make the holes @$39). I will keep you posted with the results in case anyone else has trouble finding the wood like I did. Thanks again for the plans!

    • Shanty2Chic on March 31, 2015 at 1:50 pm

      Can’t wait to see it! I did use the fir for the 2x boards. I’m guessing your cost is high because you went with pine slats? I used furring strips for the slats and those are about $2 each.

  14. Griff on March 30, 2015 at 1:44 pm

    How did you build the headboard? I was also thinking about adding some side supports for the mattress to fit in. That way it doesn’t move. Great Job. I will be building one for a King size select comfort.

  15. Jordan Wilbur on March 15, 2015 at 9:05 am

    As a furniture salesperson, I highly recommend that you add center feet to the center bar of this bed. I realize it is a 2×4, but without those center feet, that board will begin to bow, bend, and sag, resulting in a sagging mattress. Most mattress companies will not warranty mattresses without those center feet, we recommend 3 feet. Weight on a bed adds up quickly. Two adults, weight of mattress and bedding, easily reaches 400-500lbs for 6-9 hours a night. That’s a lot of weight on one center bar. The slats won’t hold that much weight, and also may want to consider adding a “bunkie board”, sold at mattress stores, or lay a piece of plywood over the slats for a flat surface. Over a period of time you will see a wave effect on the bottom of your mattress which will ultimately change the way your mattress feels, especially if you have an all foam or pocketed coil mattress.

    • S. Coates on April 20, 2015 at 5:02 pm

      Do NOT put plywood over the slats. Mattresses need to breathe and if they can’t they will grow mold that will make you very sick. That is why you have slats or a box spring- so the mattress will still get clean air.

      • Jordan Wilbur on April 21, 2015 at 3:41 pm

        If you are concerned about air ventilation, then at least buy a “bunkie board”, it’s essientially a 1″ foundation that is built like a regular foundation.. The slat only method with warp your mattress.

        • Jeannine Davis on October 13, 2015 at 11:50 pm

          yes it will

      • Jeannine Davis on October 13, 2015 at 11:49 pm

        When a mattress lays on a boxspring it does not breath either

  16. Jennifer Waltering on February 19, 2015 at 1:23 am

    My husband and I saw this and HAD to build it. We had been looking at frames at stores and they are so expensive. Thank you so much for this, it was so easy and with both of us building it, it only took about 2 hours and then we had to let the stain dry. Very easy construction, but soooooo heavy. We wont be moving it for a while now lol.

  17. Nadia Torres on February 12, 2015 at 5:39 pm

    I’m planning on building this but im kind of lost on the plans measurements. When I went to home depot to get the wood they don’t have any 1 * 3 * 10 they have it by 8 can i use that size? and they also said it would be soo big considering the full size bed measures 75 x 54.

    • Nick Womack on April 21, 2015 at 8:54 am

      Typically in these plans when blue prints call for a 10 foot board when nothing about the piece is over 8 foot (the typical length of boards most would buy) is because it’s more cost effective. Whatever they are using it for requires 2 boards less than 5 feet each. So they buy 1 10 footer and cut it down, saving money. I couldn’t get a 10 foot board home safely myself, so if I were to build this I’d have to replace any 10 ft boards with 2 8 footers. Or ask the fine people at Lowe’s/Home Depot/other lumber place to cut down the 10 footer for me.

  18. Misty McCoy on February 8, 2015 at 1:50 pm

    My husband built this bed yesterday afternoon and we are super excited about how it turned out. Printable plans were easy to follow. Thanks for sharing!

  19. jeka on January 27, 2015 at 11:11 pm

    Hello in a previous comment you said to add 22″ to the width and 5 to the length. which is which!?! Please help 😀

    For example the 2x8x10 is the yellow piece. And it is 52″ in is that in length or width? The directions say add 22″ to the width and 5″ to the length, how would I do that?

    Is it 52+22=74 (is that the width)??

    then where do i add the 5??

    Sorry not good at geometry apparently!

    Jeka

    • Nick Womack on April 21, 2015 at 8:57 am

      I know I’m replying way after here but anyone else reading this remember that all you have to do is figure the size difference between a full size bed (size the plans are for) and the size you’re wanting to build. Next the Width is from side to side. Length is from head board to foot board. Think about how a mattress is. Is a king a lot wider or longer than a full size mattress?

  20. Hudzonater on January 18, 2015 at 7:24 pm

    Im sorry but lm really late here. Love the bed. Only question for anyone is what did everyone make it out of 2×6 or 2×8. It looks like to me half and half not sure. If l can get some help that would be great. Thxs

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