Learn how to build this DIY Dining Table with Industrial Corbels for $170 with just a few basic tools and free plans!

You guys have been so patient in waiting for me to get this DIY Dining Table with Industrial Corbels plans to you! I built it last fall but I have had so many projects that needed to be complete and I haven’t had a chance to sit an work on the plans. But, they are here now!

  • Get the free plans and how-to instructions for the matching bench HERE!
DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
DIY Farmhouse Table

There are a few features that I LOVE about this DIY Dining Table! The first is obviously the mix of wooden and metal corbels. It gives it such a rustic, industrial look but still a farmhouse style table. Another feature, in the design, is that this table is a little more narrow compared to most of our dining tables but it still seats as many people! I designed this table with the goal of opening up my dining room a bit. It’s a narrow space and when you start adding benches and other furniture, my previous table felt cramped. So, this table is only 35″ wide but will still seat 6 people comfortably. The final feature is the price, I spent $166 in lumber and hardware for this table!

Come tour this entire room, with us!

So let’s jump into the build! This is an easy table to build! I highly recommend ripping the round edges off of the 2x boards, to create the seamless chunky legs. It will also give you a smooth table top and the modern style straight lines. We always use our table saws to rip our round edges. If you don’t have a table saw, Ryobi has a great one for $129. The cost of a new table saw plus the cost of materials to build this table would still be under $300 – cheaper than any decent dining table I’ve seen in stores. So, if you need to convince your significant other that you “need” a table saw…you’re welcome 😉

How to Build a DIY Dining Room Table

Supplies:

  • 8 – 2x6x8 Whitewood or Pine
  • 9 – 2x4x8 Whitewood or Pine
  • 1 – 1x6x6 Whitewood or Pine
  • 7 – 1/4″ x 3″ x 4′ Craft Board
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • HD Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
  • 2″ Brad Nails
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • 3″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Metal Corbels

Tools:

  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • Kreg HD
  • Brad Nailer
  • Table Saw (optional)

You can download the Free Dining Table Plans HERE and follow along in the tutorial below.

Building the DIY Dining Table Base

Step 1: Laminating the 2×4’s to Create the Legs

How to Rip Lumber with a Table Saw

As I mentioned, I started by ripping all of the rounded edges off of the 2x boards. Rip off of both sides. The 2×4’s will become 3″ wide and the 2×6 will become 5″ wide.

Laminating 2×4’s

To laminate the boards for the chunky legs, I applied glue to one board then laid another board on top of it.

Laminating Boards

I clamped them together and let them dry overnight.

Sanding Pine

When the glue dried, I sanded the laminate boards so that the joints were smooth.

Step 2: Cutting the Legs

Making the Cuts for the Legs

Then, I made my cuts. Follow the cut list diagrams for the exact dimensions.

Step 3: Drilling the Pocket Holes

Kreg HD

To drill pocket holes into the laminated pieces, I used my KregHD.

This is the jig that we use to drill pocket holes in boards that are more than 1 1/2″ thick.

Step 4: Attaching the Base Pieces Together

Kreg Jig

I used my Kreg Jig K5 to drill pocket holes into the other boards.

Attaching the Legs
Attaching the Stretchers

I started by assembling the bottom of the base of the table. To do that, I attached the runners to the feet with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue. I made the pocket holes face up because we will cover them later. Refer to the plans for placement of the runners.

First Part of the Table Base

Do this on both ends of the runners. It should look like this now.

Second Part of the Table Base

Next, I attached two feet to each end of the base with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue. Refer to the plans for the placement.

Bottom of Table Base

The table base should look like this now.

Attaching the Legs to the Bottom of the Table

Next, attach the laminated legs to the top of the feet with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Top of the Table Base

To assemble the top of the table base, attach the runners to the support (arms) with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Then, attach the end supports with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Attaching the Top of the Base to the Legs

Flip the top frame over and attach it to the legs with 3″ wood screws. Don’t use wood glue here. It will make it easier to disassemble, later.

DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
Assembled Table Base

Here is the table base, at this point. Looking pretty chic 😉

Step 5: Attaching the Foot Pads and Trim

Attaching the Foot Pads

Flip the table upside down and attach the foot pads, to the end of each foot, with 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue. I used my Ryobi 18 gauge Airstrike nailer.

Applying Wood Glue on the Trim

Flip the table back over and cut the short craft board pieces to size. Apply wood glue

Attaching the Craft Board Trim

and attach them to the base and top frame of the table. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails. The craft boards will be flush with the legs and every side of the legs will have a craft board, except the inside.

Craft Boards Attached to the Bottom of the Legs

Now, cut the long craft board pieces to size. Attach one on top of each short craft board and into the side of each leg. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue.

Trim attached to the Top of the Legs

Follow up with the top of the legs, as well.

Dining Table Corbels

Next, cut the 16 wooden corbels to size.

Applying Wood Glue to the Corbels
Attaching the Corbels

Attach one to the outside end of each leg and underneath the runners. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue. Drive the nails in close to the edges of the corbels, so the nails will go through and into the table base.

Wooden Corbels on the DIY Dining Table

Here is one side, of the table base, with the wooden corbels attached.

Building the Table Top

Step 6: Attach the Table Top Planks

How to Build a Dining Table Top

Attach the table planks together with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Tip: when I am attaching table top planks, I use my Kreg Face Clamp at every pocket hole joint to create a smooth table top surface.

Step 7: Attaching the Bread Boards

DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
Planked Top Assembled

Once the planks are attached, measure and cut the breadboards to fit. Attach them with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, through the pocket holes drilled in the ends of the planks, and into the breadboards.

At this point, you can attach the table top to the base, or you can wait until you bring it inside. I waited until I brought mine inside to make it easier to move.

Applying the Finish

Step 8: Stain

Varathane Briarsmoke Stain
DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
DIY Farmhouse Table Stained

I used one coat of Briarsmoke stain by Varathane!

Applying Stain to a Dining Table

This is my favorite color of stain right now! It’s the perfect balance of grey and brown 😉 I used a lamb’s wool applicator to apply the stain. These are about $5 each and you can only use them one time. So, I only use them on large pieces but they make staining so much easier! You can find them at Home Depot with the stains.

Check out our How to Stain Wood video for a more detailed tutorial!

Step 9: Applying a Polyurethane

Triple Thick Polyurethane

I applied one coat of our favorite Triple Thick Polyurethane by Varathane, in satin finish.

Step 10: Attaching the Metal Corbels

Attaching the Metal Corbels

Once the poly was dry, I brought my table inside and attached the top to the base. Then, I attached the 8 metal brackets with hex screws. I purchased these metal brackets on Amazon. I used black acrylic paint to paint the hex screws black.

How to Build a Dining Table

That was it! I added this cute bread bowl and cute vases and stems!

Dining Table Free Plans
DIY Farmhouse Table
DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
DIY Industrial Corbel Farmhouse Table
How to Build a Dining Room Table

Want info about the other items in this room? Click the links below for the info!

Vases:HERE

Stems:HERE

Bread Bowl: Vintage shop in Tennessee

Chandelier: HERE

Rug: HERE

Plate Rack: Free Plans Coming Soon!

Items on Plate Rack: sharing details soon!

Herringbone Wall Treatment: HERE

Curtains: HERE

Paint Colors: Wall – Soft Stones by Valspar; Trim – Ivory Lace by Valspar

Flooring: HERE

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28 Comments

  1. I am reading your amazing and interesting article it was so helpful for me, thanks for sharing such helpful content. I have added a new kit to my knowledge dictionary.

  2. I would love to make this into a hightop/counter height table. Is that possible by simply making the legs taller? Or would it be too top heavy?

  3. What size did you use in the photo? Also what is your color as we can’t figure out if it’s the first photo or the second photo on the link? Thanks!

  4. Once I started putting everything together after making the cuts, I think the plans are off. Its says I need 8 of the sky blue boards (for the base) and 4 hot pink boards (for the chunky legs) but in the pictures at the bottom, its the other way around… Is this a mess up with the plans?

      1. Just ran into the same problem today. Wish I would have r we through the comments first. Oh well…it’s good to have the extra 2x4s available for errors. I cannot wait to finish this build!!

    1. I have the same problem when using 2x wood. I use 1×6’s and frame it with 2×4’s for the table tops I build just like shanty2chic did on their restoration hardware dining table. I haven’t had any warping issue’s with that top.

  5. I”d like to go longer/wider also, say 8 ft x (one 2 by four wider). Do I need to change anything underneath to support it properly?

  6. I may want to make it longer and/or wider. Is it possible? I’m guessing lengthen the runners, widen the base, and widen the top. Anything I’m missing?