You guys have been so patient in waiting for me to get these DIY Industrial Farmhouse Table plans to you! I built it last fall but I have had so many projects that needed to be complete and I haven’t had a chance to sit an work on the plans. But, they are here now!
There are a few features that I LOVE about this table! The first is obviously the mix of wooden and metal corbels. It gives it such a rustic, industrial look. Another feature, in the design, is that this table is a little more narrow compared to most of our dining tables but it still seats as many people! I designed this table with the goal of opening up my dining room a bit. It’s a narrow space and when you start adding benches and other furniture, my previous table felt cramped. So, this table is only 35″ wide but will still seat 6 people comfortably. The final feature is the price, I spent $166 in lumber and hardware for this table!
Come tour this entire room, with us!
So let’s jump into the build! This is an easy table to build! I highly recommend ripping the round edges off of the 2x boards, to create the seamless chunky legs. It will also give you a smooth table top and the modern style straight lines. We always use our table saws to rip our round edges. If you don’t have a table saw, Ryobi has a great one for $129. The cost of a new table saw plus the cost of materials to build this table would still be under $300 – cheaper than any decent dining table I’ve seen in stores. So, if you need to convince your significant other that you “need” a table saw…you’re welcome 😉
You can download the FREE PRINTABLE PLANS HERE and follow along below in the tutorial.
As I mentioned, I started by ripping all of the rounded edges off of the 2x boards. Rip off of both sides. The 2×4’s will become 3″ wide and the 2×6 will become 5″ wide.
To laminate the boards for the chunky legs, I applied glue to one board then laid another board on top of it.
I clamped them together and let them dry overnight.
When the glue dried, I sanded the laminate boards so that the joints were smooth.
Then, I made my cuts.
To drill pocket holes into the laminated pieces, I used my KregHD. You can find one here on Amazon. This is the jig that we use to drill pocket holes in boards that are more than 1 1/2″ thick.
I used my Kreg Jig K5 to drill pocket holes into the other boards. You can find our favorite Kreg Jig model HERE on Amazon.
I started by assembling the bottom of the base of the table. To do that, I attached the runners to the feet with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue. I made the pocket holes face up because we will cover them later. Refer to the plans for placement of the runners.
Do this on both ends of the runners. It should look like this now.
Next, I attached two feet to each end of the base with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue. Refer to the plans for the placement.
The table base should look like this now.
Next, attach the laminated legs to the top of the feet with HD pocket hole screws and wood glue.
To assembly the top of the table base, attach the runners to the support (arms) with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Then, attach the end supports with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.
Flip the top frame over and attach it to the legs with 3″ wood screws. Don’t use wood glue here. It will make it easier to disassemble, later.
Here is the table base, at this point.
Flip the table upside down and attach the foot pads, to the end of each foot, with 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue. I used my Ryobi 18 gauge Airstrike nailer.
Flip the table back over and cut the short craft board pieces to size. Apply wood glue
and attach them to the base and top frame of the table. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails. The craft boards will be flush with the legs and every side of the legs will have a craft board, except the inside.
Now, cut the long craft board pieces to size. Attach one on top of each short craft board and into the side of each leg. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue.
Follow up with the top of the table base, as well.
Next, cut the 16 wooded corbels to size
and attach one to the outside end of each leg and underneath the runners. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue. Drive the nails in close to the edges of the corbels, so the nails will go through and into the table base.
Here is one side, of the table base, with the wooden corbels attached.
Attach the table planks together with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Tip: when I am attaching table top planks, I use my Kreg Face Clamp at every pocket hole joint to create a smooth table top surface. You can find the Kreg Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.
Once the planks are attached, measure and cut the breadboards to fit. Attach them with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, through the pocket holes drilled in the ends of the planks, and into the breadboards.
At this point, you can attach the table top to the base, or you can wait until you bring it inside. I waited until I brought mine inside to make it easier to move.
Next step is the finish!
I used one coat of Briarsmoke stain by Varathane! You can find it at Home Depot or HERE on Amazon.
This is my favorite color of stain right now! It’s the perfect balance of grey and brown 😉 I used a lamb’s wool applicator to apply the stain. These are about $5 each and you can only use them one time. So, I only use them on large pieces but they make staining so much easier! You can find them at Home Depot with the stains.
Once the stain was dry, I brought my table inside and attached the top to the base. Then, I attached the 8 metal brackets with hex screws. I purchased these metal brackets on Amazon. I used black acrylic paint to paint the hex screws black.
That was it! I added this cute bread bowl (gifted to me by some good friends) and cute vases and stems!
Want info about the other items in this room? Click the links below for the info!
Bread Bowl: Vintage shop in Tennessee
Plate Rack: Free Plans Coming Soon!
Items on Plate Rack: sharing details soon!
Herringbone Wall Treatment: HERE
Paint Colors: Wall – Soft Stones by Valspar; Trim – Ivory Lace by Valspar