For those of you that have waited a while for this plan for the DIY Farmhouse Dining Bench…. Thank you for your patience!  And, thank you for reminding me I never posted it…  Oops!  I hope you forgive me and enjoy the plans for this DIY Farmhouse Dining Bench that I built for under $30 in lumber per bench.  Yep, you read that right!  Check out how cute they turned out!

You can find plans for the matching table HERE!

To download and print the FREE PLANS for the bench, click HERE!

The first thing I did when building these benches is run my wood through the table saw to cut of the rounded corners.  This is optional, but we love the smooth finish it gives and how it adds so much to the overall look of the piece.

That will leave your boards with straight edges like this…

If you choose to skip this step, be sure to watch  measurements and measure before you cut rather than going directly off the plans.  It will make a difference in the overall size.

You will cut the angles for the feet first.  I used my miter saw for this part.  Just mark your cut and then make them on each side.

Next you will use these boards to create two bases for each bench.  These will be identical bases. I used wood glue between each joint, and used 2.5″ Spax screws to attach the boards.  I also used a speed square to mark where each board would line up.

Next step is to attach your top runners to each base you just built.  These will be run under the top planks of the bench to support the top.   I added 1.5″ pocket holes to the ends of each runner using our VERY favorite Kreg Jig K5 model.  Make sure that the holes face the direction of the plans, to keep them hidden when your bench is all done.

Next, I used wood glue and 2.5″ pocket hole screws through those pocket holes and into the bench bases.

Now to attach the bottom runner.  This will run the same way the top runners do, but sit in the middle of the bench feet.  I used my Kreg Clamp to help hold it in place.  DO YOU HAVE ONE?  If not, click HERE, buy it on Amazon, and thank us later.  It’s like having a third hand to help you build.

Here it is all ready for the top!

Once your base is all assembled, it’s time to build the top.  These are planked first, using 1.5″ pocket holes and 2.5″ pocket hole screws.

 I also used wood glue between the planks on mine.  Because I have ripped the boards down to 3″, the edge of the pocket holes can show on this part.  I lined up my boards to keep them from showing.

Now for the breadboards!  I used a pencil to mark where each pocket hole should be.

Then, I added my pocket holes to each breadboard.

I attached the breadboards to the bench top using 2.5″ pocket hole screws and wood glue between each joint.

After attaching both breadboards, I turned the bench base upside-down on top of the bench top and attached the base to the top with 2.5″ Spax screws through the base and into the top.

Almost finished!  Last step is adding the decorative feet pieces to each end.  I used 1.5″ pocket holes on these as well.

Attach those with 2.5″ pocket hole screws and wood glue and you are just about ready for stain!

Before staining, I sanded each bench with my Ryobi 18V Orbital Sander.

I stained these benches the same color as the table…  Briarsmoke by Varathane.  You can find this at Home Depot.

After that dried, I gave both benches a coat of Rust-Oleum Triple Thick Poly in Satin.

It goes on white and dries clear.

Here they are all finished up in my dining room!

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  1. I am wanting to make the table. It requires 2 1/2 in brad nails. I have a 18 gauge brad nailer and I can’t find 2 1/2 in for it? What can I do?

    1. 2″ brad nails should work in your 18 gauge nailer. I just used the same to make my table and it did the trick. Most, if not all, 18 gauge nailers only accept up to 2″ nails but the thickness of the boards here is 1.5″ (actual), so, while not AS strong as 2.5″, the 2″ should work fine.