DIY Sliding Barn Door Console Table

You guys, I kind of love this build to pieces. I designed this DIY sliding barn door console table for my son’s room to go with the bed I built him, and it gave me exactly the storage and industrial farmhouse look I wanted for this space.

I will warn you, this thing is BIG. It ended up being about twice the size I originally pictured in my head, but once I got it into the room, I loved the size and how much storage it gave us.

You can download and print the free sliding barn door console plans here and follow along with the complete tutorial below.

Free plans graphic for the DIY sliding barn door console table.

Table of Contents

Why I Love This Sliding Barn Door Console so Much

There is a lot going on in this build, but that is also what makes the finished piece so useful.

Three large drawers give you plenty of hidden storage.
The sliding barn door covers the open shelving on the other side.
You can customize the stain and hardware to fit your room.
The hardwood plywood keeps the large cabinet sturdy without using solid hardwood everywhere.
Pocket-hole construction makes most of the assembly straightforward.
The free printable plans include the complete cut list and measurements.

And seriously, that sliding hardware is still my favorite part.

Key Supplies and Tools I Used

This is a larger furniture build, so having the right materials and tools makes the assembly much easier.

Hardwood plywood: I used PureBond Plywood for the cabinet sides, shelves and drawers. I like using hardwood plywood on furniture builds like this because it gives me a nice finished wood surface without the cost of building the entire piece from solid hardwood.

Kreg Jig: Most of this console is assembled with pocket holes. I used my Kreg Jig K5 on the original build.

Pocket-hole screws: Several parts of the cabinet use 3/4-inch pocket holes with 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. The sliding door is planked together using 1 1/2-inch pocket holes and 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws.

Jigsaw: I used my Ryobi cordless jigsaw to cut the notches in the cabinet sides, drawer pulls and several trim pieces.

Finish nailer: A finish nailer made attaching the trim, drawer bottoms and face frame much faster. I used 1 1/4-inch finish nails.

Sliding barn door hardware: I found the metal track and rollers for my original console on eBay. The hardware gives this piece most of its personality, so make sure you have your hardware before making the final door and track adjustments.

Varathane Early American stain: This is the stain I used on the entire finished piece.

How to Build a DIY Sliding Barn Door Console Table

The printable plans have the full dimensions and cut list, but I’ll walk you through exactly how I assembled mine.

Cut the Plywood Cabinet Pieces

The first step is cutting the pieces for the main shell of the console.

This cabinet uses hardwood plywood. I usually have Home Depot rip my full sheets down into manageable pieces so I can get them home, then I make the smaller cuts with my table saw.

Follow the measurements in the printable plans for the sides, bottom, shelving and divider pieces.

Cut the Notches in the Side Panels

I used a speed square to mark the notches on each side panel.

Speed square and pencil marking notch lines on a plywood panel for the console table.

Then, I cut along those lines using my Ryobi 18V cordless jigsaw.

Ryobi jigsaw cutting a notch in a plywood panel for the sliding barn door console.

Take your time here because these cuts affect how the bottom and trim pieces fit against the cabinet sides.

Finished rectangular notch cut into the plywood side panel.

Build the Main Cabinet Shell

Next, I added pocket holes to the bottom panel using my Kreg Jig.

Kreg Jig drilling pocket holes into a plywood panel for the console cabinet.
Kreg Jig K5 Model

For this part, I used 3/4-inch pocket holes and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Attach the bottom panel between the two cabinet sides according to the plans.

Plywood cabinet panel attached with 3/4-inch pocket holes and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Check the cabinet for square before tightening everything completely. This is a big cabinet, and getting the shell square now will make the drawers, shelves and face frame much easier to install later.

Main plywood shell of the console table assembled on the workshop floor.

Attach the Front Bottom Board

Next, attach the front bottom board.

I used 3/4-inch pocket holes with 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws again.

Kreg Jig drilling pocket holes into a wood support board.
Kreg Jig K5

I also drilled pocket holes along the length of this board so I could attach it up into the bottom of the cabinet shell.

Wood support attached with 3/4-inch pocket holes and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Add the Front Trim Piece

The pocket holes on the front bottom board are covered by another piece.

I marked and cut the notches in this board using my jigsaw.

Speed square and pencil marking cut lines on a wood board for the console table frame.

Once the fit looked right, I added wood glue and clamped the trim in place. I attached it from the back using 1 1/4-inch finish nails so the fasteners wouldn’t show on the front.

Ryobi finish nailer attaching a wood trim piece to the console table frame.
Ryobi Airstrike Nail Gun

Install the Top Supports

Next, I attached the top support boards.

These are also installed using 3/4-inch pocket holes and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Kreg right-angle clamp holding a support board in place while attaching it with pocket-hole screws.
Kreg Right angle clamp

Make sure the cabinet is still square as you add these pieces. On a cabinet this large, little alignment problems can become much more noticeable later.

Upper support boards installed across the top of the sliding barn door console frame.

Build the Face Frame

I assembled the face frame separately on the floor first.

Face-frame boards joined with pocket holes on the workshop floor.

I used the same 3/4-inch pocket-hole setting and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws to connect the pieces.

Once the frame was assembled, I attached it to the front of the cabinet using wood glue and 1 1/4-inch finish nails.

Completed wood face frame assembled before attaching it to the console cabinet.

Add the Center Divider

Next came the center divider.

Make sure you drill all of the necessary pocket holes in this piece before installing it inside the console. It is much easier to do them while the panel is still out of the cabinet.

Center plywood divider attached inside the console cabinet with pocket-hole joinery.

Attach the divider according to the plans and check its position before driving the remaining screws.

Here is a shot from the back…

Interior view of the center divider installed between the console storage sections.

Install the Back Side Board and Shelves

I added the 1×2 board that runs along the back of the console next.

Rear support strip installed along the inside edge of the console cabinet.

Then I set the shelves into position and attached them with pocket-hole screws.

At this point, the main cabinet body is really starting to come together.

Sliding barn door console cabinet with face frame, center divider, and upper supports assembled.

Building the Drawers

Now for the drawers! They look like a big part of this project, but the construction itself is pretty simple. Easy I promise! These are also made of PureBond Plywood.

Cut the Drawer Pull Notches

Before assembling them, I marked the cutouts for the built-in drawer pulls and used my jigsaw to cut each notch.

Pencil line marking the rounded recessed pull shape on a plywood drawer front.

Take a little extra time to make sure all three notches are positioned consistently so they line up when the drawers are installed.

Rounded drawer pull notch cut into the plywood with a jigsaw.

Assemble the Drawer Boxes

Next, assemble the sides of each drawer using pocket-hole screws.

Drawer box side joined with 3/4-inch pocket holes and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Once the drawer boxes are together, attach the bottoms using wood glue and finish nails.

I used my Ryobi AirStrike 16-gauge nailer for this part.

Wood glue applied along the edge of a plywood drawer box before assembly.

Ryobi AirStrike nailer attaching the drawer bottom to the drawer box.
Ryobi Airstrike 16g Nailer

Completed plywood drawer box before installing the drawer front.

Fit the Drawer Fronts

Once the drawers were installed, I measured for the drawer fronts.

This is one place where I made a small adjustment from the plans.

The plan calls for the drawer front to be about 1/8 inch smaller than the opening, but I personally left about 1/4 inch because I wanted a little more wiggle room.

Three drawers installed in the left side of the sliding barn door console.

I cut the pull notch in each drawer front so it lined up with the notch in the drawer box.

Then I attached the fronts with wood glue and drove 1 1/4-inch wood screws from inside the drawer into the back of the drawer front.

I like fitting drawer fronts from the actual cabinet opening rather than relying only on the cut list. Small differences during assembly can change the final fit.

Wood glue applied to a drawer front before attaching it to the drawer box.

Drawer front clamped in place while the glue sets.

Installing the Sliding Barn Door Hardware

Before staining anything, I decided to install the metal sliding track.

I wanted to make sure everything fit correctly while it was still easy to make adjustments.

Install the Track

I found the sliding barn door hardware for my original console on eBay, and I paid about $90 for the set at the time. But you can use any one you like.

The hardware attaches with the bolts and long screws included with the kit.

Black spacer from the sliding barn door hardware kit held in hand before installation.

On mine, the screws extended slightly through the upper boards and into the inside of the cabinet. They weren’t visible or reachable once the console was assembled. So left it alone.

Because hardware kits can vary, follow the installation instructions that come with your specific track and check the required clearances before drilling.

That is especially important before making your final door adjustments.

Driver with long mounting screw ready to attach the sliding barn door track hardware to the console.

Black metal barn door track mounted to the front of the unfinished wood console with spacers.

And here it is ready for stain. I waited to put the top on until I moved it in the house because it was already massive. That helped.

Unfinished DIY sliding barn door console with three drawers, open shelves, and the metal track installed.

Building the Sliding Barn Door

The door itself is actually one of the simplest parts of the build.

Plank the Door Together

Cut the door boards according to the printable plans.

I drilled 1 1/2-inch pocket holes and joined the planks together using 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws.

Make sure the boards stay flat as you tighten the screws so the finished door will slide smoothly along the face of the console.

Wood planks for the sliding barn door joined with 1 1/2-inch pocket holes and 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws.

Once the door is assembled, attach the rollers from your barn door hardware kit according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Close-up of black metal roller hardware mounted to the stained sliding barn door.

Assemble the top of the Console

Cut the door boards according to the printable plans.

just like I did with the door, I drilled 1 1/2-inch pocket holes and joined the planks together using 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws.

Make sure the boards stay flat as you tighten the screws so the finished door will slide smoothly along the face of the console.

Diagram showing four 1x6 boards cut to 77 inches for the console table top.

Attach the top boards with wood glue and brad or finish nails.

Free-plan diagram showing the top of the sliding barn door console layout with drawers, shelves, and metal track.

Sanding and Staining the Console

Once I knew the drawers, track and sliding door all fit correctly, I was ready for the finish.

I stained the entire piece with Varathane Early American Wood Stain.

I love how this color brings out all of the grain and knots in the wood while keeping that rustic industrial look I wanted for my son’s room.

I actually waited to install the top until I moved the console inside because this thing was already massive. That made moving it much easier.

Definitely grab another person for that part. This is not a little piece of furniture.

Can of Varathane Early American wood stain used to finish the console table.

Finished DIY sliding barn door console with three drawers and rustic black metal hardware beneath a wall-mounted TV.

Expert Tip

A few things will make this build go much smoother.

Have your barn door hardware first. Track systems can vary, so you want the actual hardware in hand before making final door adjustments.
Check for square often. The cabinet is large, and keeping the shell square will help the shelves, divider, face frame and drawers fit correctly.
Fit the drawer fronts to your actual openings. I left about 1/4 inch of clearance instead of the 1/8 inch shown in the plans.
Test the sliding hardware before staining. It is much easier to fix a fit problem before the finish goes on.
Move the cabinet strategically. I left the top off until the console was inside the house because the finished piece is so large.
Use another set of hands when you need it. Moving and positioning a cabinet this size is much easier with help.

Angled view of the finished stained sliding barn door console showing the wood top, drawers, door, and black metal track.

Ways to Customize This Console

There are a few simple ways you could change the look without changing the basic construction.

You could paint the cabinet instead of staining it, choose a different wood stain, or swap the barn door hardware for another style.

You could also use different drawer pulls instead of the built-in notch design, although you would need to adjust the drawer-front construction accordingly.

And if you want to change the overall dimensions, remember that the shelves, divider, face frame, drawer sizes and sliding hardware placement would all need to change with it.

And that was it! What do you think?? I LOVE it. So much storage. That makes me most happy. And the hardware, duh.

Open shelving inside the finished sliding barn door console with a woven basket holding remotes and game controllers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a table saw for this project?

I used my table saw to make the smaller plywood cuts after having Home Depot rip the full sheets down for me. If you don’t have a table saw, check whether your lumber supplier can make the necessary cuts according to the plans.

Should I install the barn door hardware before staining?

That is what I did, and I recommend test-fitting it first. If something needs adjusting, it is much easier to fix before staining.

Why should I measure the drawer fronts instead of cutting all of them from the plan first?

Large furniture builds can end up with tiny differences after assembly. Measuring each opening lets you fit the fronts to the cabinet you actually built.

Is this a beginner project?

I wouldn’t call this one of our simplest builds. There are several cabinet components, drawers, plywood cuts and a sliding hardware system to install. If you are already comfortable with a Kreg Jig, jigsaw and basic furniture assembly, the plans break it into manageable steps.

More DIY Projects for the Room

I originally designed this console to work with the other furniture I built for my son’s room. If you like this style, check out the DIY Desk, the DIY Full or Queen Size Storage Bed, and the DIY Thin Brick Wall that I used in the same space.

I love how all of the wood, black metal and rustic finishes work together without everything having to match exactly.

This thing turned out even bigger than I originally planned, but I wouldn’t change it. The three drawers and shelves give us so much storage, the sliding door hides whatever we don’t want sitting out, and that black metal hardware completely makes the piece.

If you build one, we would love to see it! Tag @shanty2chic on Instagram and use #shanty2chic so we can check out your finished project.

🛠️ Printable Tutorial