DIY Round Table

I am LOVING my new kitchen nook area! I had a larger table, that I built for this spot when we first moved in, that had six chairs and the chandelier was in the middle of the ceiling. This cramped up the space so much (sometimes you don’t know exactly how you will use a space in your home until you have lived in it for a while). The majority of the traffic through our house is the door in the kitchen that leads from the garage. So, I had an electrician out doing some work and asked him to move my chandelier to center it on the bay window nook. Then, I decided to build a smaller table with a built-in bench πŸ™‚

DIY-Round-Table

I couldn’t be happier now! I love this table, I love how it is centered in front of the bay window and the chairs are the icing on the cake!! You can find the chairs HERE! (*** The chairs come in a set of 2 and are priced for a set***)

The best part? I built this table for only $75 in lumber! You can click HERE for the free printable plans and follow along with the how-to tutorial below πŸ™‚

rip-edges-off-2x6

My first step was to rip the round edges off of each 2x board. This is a bit time consuming but it makes the table look nicer and it creates a smooth table top. You don’t have to do this but you will have “crumb catchers” on your table top if you don’t πŸ˜‰ I used my Ridgid table saw (which I LOVE) but you can purchase a less expensive table saw and get the job done just fine. It’s a great investment if you plan to build lots of furniture πŸ˜‰

table-saw-adjustment

Just set the guide on your table saw about 1/8″ less that the width of the board you are ripping. A 2×4 is 3 1/2″ wide so I set it for 1/8″ less than that.

scraps-from-2x-boards

Once you make one cut on one side of every board, flip them over, take another 1/8″ off of the width and cut the other sides. Total you will cut about 1/4″ of the width off of the boards total. The pic above is the “waste” from the rips.

drilling-pocket-holes

Next, I used my Kreg Jig to drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the 2×4 planks. You can find the Kreg Jig K5 model that we love HERE on Amazon.

attach-planks-for-table-top

Then, I attached all of the planks together with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

build-table-top

This creates the table top that you will cut to make round. Notice where I put the pocket holes. You want to make sure that they will clear the cuts you make for the round top.

mark-center-of-table-top

Next, mark the very center of the planked top.

drill-hole-for-pencil

Then, cut a scrap board that is longer than the radius of your table and drill one pilot hole at one end.

measure-table-radius

Then, measure from the center of that pilot hole and make a mark that is the length of the radius of your table.

draw-circle-for-table-top

Hammer a nail into the mark that goes into the bottom of the table top at the very center mark that you made on the table top. Then put a pencil in the pilot hole and drag the scrap board around the table top planks. This will mark an even circle for you to cut!

cut-round-table-top-with-jigsaw

Once the circle is draw, you can use a router or a jigsaw to cut the circle. A jig saw is much less expensive and will work just fine. I used mine, just make sure to cut slow and don’t lean into the jigsaw. This will cause the blade to bend on the 2″ thick boards and give you a “wonky” cut. No worries, just go slow πŸ™‚

boards-for-table-base

Now, make your cuts for the table base and apply glue to the 2×3 pieces.

build-table-pedestal-base

I used my Airstrike 18 gauge nailer with 2″ brad nails to attach the 2×6 board to the 2×3 boards.

table-pedestal

It should look like this. Now, you can attach the other 2×6 board the same way.

sand-table-base

Make sure to sand the base so that the base looks like one solid piece of wood.

table-pedestal-assembled

Here she is πŸ™‚ Now, let’s build her some feetΒ πŸ™‚

table-legs

Now, Make all of the cuts for the legs and supports and drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes in one end of half of the boards. Make sure to keep the pocket holes towards the center of the 2×6 boards. These will be covered with 1×3 blocks.

apply-glue-to-board

Apply glue to a 2×6 board with pocket holes (glue goes on the side that does not have pocket holes)

build-table-legs

place it on top of a board that does not have pocket holes and attach them with 2″ brad nails.

cut-angles-of-table-legs

Once the glue dries, you should have 8 blocks of 2×6 that you have attached together. Now, you can use your miter saw to cut the angles off of the ends of the blocks (refer to the plans for the exact angle measurements). To make these angle cuts, you will adjust the top of your miter saw so that the top swings to the angle you want to cut. This is called a bevel cut. This is the first angle cut. (***Pocket holes should be facing up on these cuts).

cut-angles-on-table-legs

The second angle cut is off of the top piece. If you don’t feel comfortable making this cut, you will get the same overall look if you skip this step. No worries.

attach-foot-pads-to-table-legs

Cut the pieces for the foot pads and attach them to the four feet with wood glue and brad nails.

table-legs-and-supports

Now, you should have 4 table top support pieces and 4 feet with foot pads on the bottom.

attach-table-legs-to-base

Attach a foot to each side of the table base with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

table-base-with-legs

When you have attached all 4 feet your table base should look like this.

attach-wood-blocks-to-table

Cut the 1×3 blocks and attach them to the table base with 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue. Start with the vertical pieces first.

attach-bottom-blocks-to-table

Then follow up with the horizontal pieces. Attach them the same way. This will cover up the pocket holes πŸ™‚

attach-wood-blocks-to-table-supports

Here is the table base with the blocks attached.

flip-pedestal-upside-down

Now, flip the base upside down and attach the top supports and blocks the same way.

apply-glue-to-wood-piece-for-arch

Make your 1×8 cuts and attach two pieces together with wood glue.

stack-1x6-blocks-for-arches

And let them dry. If you don’t want to wait for the glue to dry, go ahead and do this step at the very beginning of your build. This way, the wood glue should be dry in time for you to cut the corbels πŸ™‚

glue-arches-to-pedestal

I used my jigsaw and cut 8 corbels from the 1×8 blocks. Then, I applied glue to the back sides and attached them to the table base with 1 1/4″ brad nails.

table-base-ready-for-paint

Do this for all 4 feet and supports and it’s ready for the finish!

painted table-base

I painted the table base Antique White by Sherwin Williams.

apply-stain-to-table-top

While I waited for the paint to dry, I stained the table top. I used Varathane Early American stain (find it HERE on Amazon) and applied it with a lambswool applicator. This is by far our favorite way to apply stain. The lambswool is a bit pricey but it is worth the cost when you are staining a large piece. It makes it so much faster to stain – trust! You can find the Lambswool HERE on Amazon.

wipe-stain-with-rag

Let the stain sit for about 5 minutes and then wipe it with a clean rag. Don’t wipe the stain away, just blend it so that they stain is even over the piece.

distress-table-top-with-sander

Once the stain has dried (about 1 hour) you an distress it if you want a more rustic look. I used my Ryobi 18-volt orbital sander. I use the Corner Cat a lot but this piece is pretty large and this sander was faster.

before-and-after-distressing

Here you can see the difference in the distressed color and the original color. A lot of people ask how we get the stain to look the way we do and this is how πŸ™‚

try-the-table-top-on-for-size

I tried the table top on for size. I didn’t attach it to the base yet because it would have been too hard to get in the house.

attach-table-top-to-supports

Once I brought it in the house, I used 4″ wood screws to attach the table top onto the supports.

diy-round-pedestal-table

Now for the top coat. I like to apply my polyurethane inside the house. There’s no sawdust in the air and it’s not 100 degrees πŸ˜‰

apply-polyurethane

I love to use the Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane in Satin! It goes on equal to 3 coats of regular polyurethane. This is water based so there really isn’t a smell and it’s easy to clean up. I applied one coat with a bristle paint brush and let it dry. You can find the Triple Thick HERE on Amazon.

That was it! I built a bench to fit the bay window (plans for that coming soon) added some cute pillows and awesome chairs and now I have a functional and beautiful kitchen nook πŸ™‚

Round-Table-DIY

DIY-Round-Wood-Table DIY-BanquetteΒ Β DIY-Round-Table DIY-Round-Table-with-BenchΒ DIY-Round-Kitchen-Table DIY-Banquette-Table

Not bad for $75 in lumber right? πŸ˜‰

Here is more info on the items in the pics πŸ™‚

Tassel Pillow – HERE

Other pillows – HomeGoods

Chairs – HERE

Bench – Free plans coming soon!

Chalkboard Calendar – HERE

Stools – HomeGoods

Tile – HERE

Chandelier – HERE

Window Box Cornices – HERE

White Pitcher – HERE

Paint Colors – HERE

Window Shades – HERE

  • Jana Taylor

    I need this table!

  • Pingback: DIY Octagon (Round) Breakfast Table – Mickey and Megan's Blog()

  • PurpleBirch

    LOVE this! I wonder how difficult it would be to make a leaf for this? It would require 2 smaller pedestals.

  • Pingback: DIY Round Table | Wood Designs()

  • Karen Scheffer

    Beautiful table! If I made the table top 60″, would I need to adjust the base design?

  • Tori Hollingsworth

    What type of finish did you use for the antique white paint? Satin or semi-gloss?

  • Adam Jones

    What router bit would you use to cut out the circle? I have a router but not sure what type of bit to purchase.

  • Liz Walker

    Thank you so much for these plans! Do you have any special tips for making the table top perfectly circular when you are marking the circle by hand with the pencil and then the jig saw? I cut a circular top with another one of your plans before and I made lots of mistakes if I didn’t hold the jig saw perfectly.

  • Natasha Ropchan

    You girls are incredible! I love to build things and my fiancΓ© and I are buying our first house (a fixer) and I can’t wait to complete all the projects off of your website including this gorgeous table to make it our own! Thank you for sharing all of the tutorials and instructions for free!!

  • Vicki

    What a gorgeous table!!! You girls are so talented! I am new to DIY and just completed the entryway bench that you posted a few years back. You have given me so much confidence and excitement in a new hobby! Thank you! Maybe one day I can make a table like this too!

  • Amanda

    This is exactly the table plan I was hoping you would add!!!! I almost had it figured out from the rectangular table with the similar base. One question, can this base handle a larger table top? I need a table to seat 6.

    • It can! Just make the top supports and feet longer according to the inches added to the top. Hope this helps!!

  • Stephanie Hulings

    Finally! I have been waiting to see how you built this table. lol. But first lets discuss the chairs that are kinda stealing the show. LOVE THEM. I just want to know how comfortable they are, because I WANT them but my husband will complain if they are not comfortable. AND LORD knows we can’t have that. lol

    • Thank you!!! The chairs are AMAZING! Huge and comfy (I mean they are wood so it’s not soft comfy but they are giant and very comfy for kitchen/dining chairs! Most comfortable I have sat in!

      • Anaid PeΓ±a Suarez

        Shanty2Chic can I use this base on the previous table you built? (octagon shape) I need a bigger table top but would prefer this base. Thank You