DIY Sliding Barn Door Bathroom Cabinet

I can’t even explain how excited and in LOVE I am with my new Sliding Barn Door Bathroom Cabinet! I’m obsessed with sliding barn doors and there isn’t a spot in my home to install one – so, I created one 🙂 What do you think? DIY-Barn-Door-Cabinet It’s the perfect mix of open shelving and hidden storage for the ugly stuff you don’t want to display 😉 It is super easy to build and, as always, I’ve got the FREE Printable Plans for you to build your own! click-here-barn-door-cabinet-plans You can click HERE or the image above to print the plans! And, follow along with my tutorial for the step-by-step!

DIY Sliding Barn Door Bathroom Cabinet

drill-pocket-holes After I cut the side, top and bottom pieces for the cabinet frame, I drilled 3/4″ pocket holes, into the 1×6 top braces, with my K5 Kreg Jig. ***I used left over scrap 3/4″ plywood for the side pieces and shelves. If you have enough, this is a great way to save money!*** Watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig vide HERE! pocket-holes-in-front-and-back-top-pieces Here are the 1×6 boards with the pocket holes. The three pocket holes on each end are on the opposite side of the boards (facing down). attach-top-pieces Next, I attached the 1×6 boards to the side pieces with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and my Titebond Wood glue. top-pieces-attached-to-sides The 1×6 boards will be flush with the side pieces. frame-with-top-pieces Here she is turned upside down. mark-for-face-frame-thickenss To know EXACTLY where to attach the bottom shelf, I marked the thickness of the 1×2 that I was using for the face frame. (This is a great tip to get a perfect fit for the shelf and the face frame). cabinet-box   I attached the bottom shelf and the bottom brace and shelf the same way as the top braces. attach-top-to-face-frame Next, I built the face frame for the cabinet with 3/4″ pocket holes, wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Refer to the plans and measure and cut, as you go, for the best spacing and fit. attach-bottom-of-face-frame Here is the face frame, upside down, with the top and bottom pieces attached. face-frame-with-middle-piece Then, I attached the middle piece. attach-middle-piece To get a flush fit with the 1×2 boards, I like to use my Kreg Bar Clamp to keep the boards fixed while I am drilling the pocket hole screws in. attach-horizontal-pieces-to-face-frame Here is the face frame assembled. apply-wood-glue-to-attach-face-frame To attach the face frame to the cabinet, I applied wood glue attach-face-frame and used my Ryobi 18 gauge brad nailer to secure it to the cabinet frame. cabinet-with-face-frame Whoop! attach-top-to-cabinet Use the pocket holes that you drilled into the top braces to attach the top of the cabinet. Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. The back of the top piece will be flush with the back of the cabinet and there will be an overhang on the front and sides of the cabinet. cabinet-with-top

Here is the cabinet with the top assembled.

attach-back I attached the backing with 3/4″ stables and my Ryobi 18 gauge crown stapler. You can use finish nails here but staples are best when you are attaching the thin backing because they grab the board. cabinet-with-back The backing is attached and now it’s time for the trim! how-to-cut-cove-molding Always measure and cut as you go for the trim! I used THIS cove molding that I found at Home Depot. I make my first 45 degree cut for one side mark-for-cove-molding then I mark for the other side, make-second-cut-on-cove-molding swing the miter cut arm to the opposite 45 degree mark and make my second cut. Watch our How to Use a Miter Saw video HERE! attach-bottom-cove-molding I flipped the cabinet upside down to attach the cove molding. Use wood glue and your brad nailer. I like to use 5/8″ brad nails for the trim. attach-cove-molding Attach the top cove molding the same way. cove-molding-side-piece I do the front piece first and then the sides. To cut the sides, make the 45 degree cut then mark where the square cut will be. (square means “0” degrees) fill-nail-holes Finally, I filled my nail holes with wood filler. bathroom-cabinet-diy Ready for paint! I used a latex paint that I had matched to my trim paint. Cozy Cottage by Behr or Ivory Lace by Valspar 🙂 attach-planks-for-door I created the sliding door with Blue Stained Pine from Home Depot. This wood has a grey tint to it and it is so pretty without a finish on it! It is tongue and groove, so I use my table saw to rip the edges off. I used 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to assemble the door. I also used my Kreg Face Clamp to keep the boards flush. back-of-planks-for-door Here is the back side of the door… planks-for-door and the front! How pretty is that!? barn-door-for-cabinet Now for the HARDWARE!!! I had our super talented friend, Tyler Wayne, create custom hardware for this piece! You may remember him from the work he did on our HGTV Pilot, Open Concept! He built a metal coffee table frame and two sliding barn doors for the home. He is super talented AND he has an Etsy shop with lots of fun pieces that he custom builds! Check it out HERE and you can order the Barn Door Hardware HERE! how-to-build-a-barn-door-cabinet I used black construction screws to attach the hardware and that was it! 31magCdWbFL._SX425_ To hang it, I used this french cleat. It is my GO-TO for heavy hanging. It’s very easy to attach and it makes hanging the shelf so much easier. You can buy it HERE. That was it! I love having the open storage to decorate the shelf but I also have a place to store toilet paper! DIY-Sliding-Barn-Door-for-Bathroom one.. Bathroom-Storage-Cabinet-DIY two… DIY-Storage-for-Bathroom three! LOVE!!! sliding-barn-door barn-door-strap sliding-barn-door-hardware DIY-Bathroom-Storage DIY-Bathroom-Storage-Cabinet-with-Barn-Door Barn-Door-Storage-Cabinet DIY-Barn-Door-Cabinet              
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