DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table for $100

Guys.  To say that I am excited about this build would be an enormous understatement.  When I opened the Pottery Barn catalog a few weeks ago my jaw dropped.  I saw the prettiest table and HAD. TO. HAVE. IT.  So, in typical fashion, I started planning.  Here is how she turned out!  Check out my Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table!

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Free Furniture Plans

Free Furniture Plans DIY Dining Table Farmhouse Style by Shanty2Chic

A few of my favorite things about this table…

A. Cost – The lumber total was $101 at Home Depot.  See for yourself in the copy of the receipt I shared on Instagram!

B. Size – I like em chunky.  This one fits that bill.  Nearly the entire thing is constructed from 2×6.  It’s beautiful.

C.  Simplicity – I won’t call this a beginner build, BUT we have simplified the plans to allow you to use a regular Kreg Jig and not the HD.  My brother-in-law received the plans from me about a week ago (perks of being family 😉 ) and this is his VERY first build.  It took him a few days, but he completely nailed it.  So, I feel like its totally attainable at any level with the right tools.

So, let’s go!  As always, I will walk you through the entire build below and you can download and print the FREE plans by clicking HERE!

This table uses 2×6 framing lumber.  On several parts you will “laminate” the boards together to form the larger looking pieces.  To get a really high end look on this piece, I chose to rip all the rounded edges from the boards.  I did this using my table saw.  This takes a little extra time, but it’s SO worth the outcome.  You will run each rounded edge through, leaving you with 5″ width boards.

rip rounded edges with table saw

Screen Shot 2016-08-24 at 6.45.40 PM

Once you have that finished, it’s time to prep the boards for the legs.

I cut the leg pieces next before laminating them together.  I did this so that I would be able to add pocket holes to the legs without having to use the HD jig.  Each leg is two 2×6 with 1.5″ pocket holes on one side and end of each board.  I used my K5 Kreg Jig to make these pocket holes.  This is FOR SURE the Kreg Jig model we would recommend starting with.  You will thank us 🙂  You can find it on Amazon HERE!

cut legs before laminating

kreg jig pocket holes

Next, add a ton of wood glue to your  legs…

add wood glue to laminate

And, clamp them together.  The tighter you can get them on this part, the smaller your seams will be.  BE SURE to attach them the right direction with pocket holes facing out and at opposite ends!

how to laminate the boards

laminate the wood legs

While those were drying, I got started on the base of the table.  You will actually make two identical base pieces.  One will be the actual base that sits on the floor and the other will be the part that supports the table top.

You are basically forming the letter “I” on this part.

base table

I attached both ends using wood glue and 2.5″ pocket hole screws through the pocket holes.

attach base assembly

bottom of base

Next, I cut the additional pieces.   Each of these will have 45˚ bevel cuts.  I used my miter saw for this part.

set saw to 45

bevel cut with saw

bevel cut

I attached these pieces using lots of wood glue and 2″ finish nails with my Ryobi AirStrike finish nailer.

add wood glue to piece

nail side pieces on base

create 2 table bases

Next, you will cut and add them small squares for each end.  I flipped each base assembly upside down on this part.

attach bottom squares

Then, I added wood glue to each end.

glue for base

I attached these squares using 2″ Spax screws.  You can use a drill on this part, but I used my new Ryobi driver that I LOVE.  It’s called the Quietstrike and I am shocked at how much quieter it is than my other driver.

attach spax screws

It’s foot pad time!  These are small squares cut from a 1×6 that will attach to the bottom of one of the base assemblies.

attach foot pads

I also used wood glue and 1.25″ finish nails on this part as well.

wood glue on foot pad

attach the foot pad

base assembly

Now back to the legs!  I unclamped all the legs and started building each leg assembly.

laminated leg of dining table

This will consist of two legs and a small 4×4 runner that goes between each leg.  This is what they will look like.

leg assmebly specs

*Small Note*  Some saws will not be able to cut through a 4×4.  If that is the case with your saw, you can use a 2×4 for this part and laminate it the same way you did the 2×6 in the above steps!

I glued and clamped one leg to the 4×4 to begin with.  You will need 4″ Spax screws for this part!  These are by far one one of our favorite brand of fasteners.  We use them in multiple sizes for different projects.  The T-star head is one of our favorite features.  You can find out more info on Spax brand HERE.

4%22 Spax Screws

I used my driver to attach the legs to the runner.  I put two screws into each side.  These screws will be covered in one of the next steps.

attaching 4x4 piece

I attached the other leg the same way.

leg assembly

Next, I attached each leg assembly to the base.  You will attach these to the base with the foot pads using 2.5″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

attaching legs to base of table

You will attach your top base assembly on top of the legs next and the entire pieces should look like this….

table specs

Now for the slightly tricky part…

Again, you will need to get creative here if your saw won’t make a pass on a 4×4.  I would suggest using a 2×4 on this part to achieve a similar look if you get stuck.  Be very careful making these cuts on the 4×4 and try to clamp your wood as best you can when you cut it.  I cut my 4×4 at the angles noted in the plans.

cut the 4x4

other angle cut

miter cut

I used wood glue and 2″ finish nails to attach these pieces to the base of the table.

glue on diagonal part

nail side pieces

The table top is next!  I added all my 1.5″ pocket holes to my planks and attached them to each other using 2.5″ pocket hole screws.

attach planks

planked top

I attached the breadboards the same way and I was done!  I set the top on the base for photos but waited to get the albatross in the house before attaching them.

DIY dining table built for under $100

I shared my pride on Instagram 🙂

New dining room table ✔️ she's ready for stain! 👯❤️🔨 #shanty2chic #diy #peaceloveshanty

A photo posted by Shanty Sisters (@shanty2chic) on

Before staining the table I sanded everything down really good.  This makes the wood take the stain even better.

sand all boards

I chose to use Varathane Briarsmoke stain for my table.  It’s amazeballs.  You will love it.  Best color ever.

Briarsmoke Stain by Varathane

After staining it, I talked my hubby into helping me move her inside so I could get it attached.  I used 4″ Spax screws on this part.  You can find them at Home Depot or on Amazon HERE.  I went through the table base runner and into the table top using 8 screws.

attach base to top

After assembling the table I gave the top a coat of Varathane Triple Thick in Satin to protect the it.  This stuff has an awesome finish to it.  You brush it on and let it dry.  It goes on white and dries clear.

Triple Thick by Varathane

Varathane Triple Thick

Whewwwww that was a lot of pictures.  For those of you that are still with me, here she is again all finished!

Free Furniture Plans DIY Farmhouse Dining Table by Shanty2Chic

Dining Table Free Plans

Free Furniture Plans DIY Dining Table Farmhouse Style by Shanty2Chic

I’ve had lots of questions about the centerpiece bottles and vases.

The vases can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The vintage bottle set can be found HERE on Wayfair.

And, let’s talk about the chairs… I’m in love.  They are super cheap too!  You can find them HERE on Wayfair!

The rug can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The chandelier can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The wall color is Antique White by Sherwin-Williams.

The window panels can be found HERE on Pottery Barn.

The bench plans are coming soon!

Thank you!  I would SO appreciate you sharing this project with all your friends.  Let me know if you have any questions at all!



  • Kalen Arnold

    Loving this table – Now to find the next project since the table is finished

  • Amy Wilson McMillan

    I know nothing about woodworking but my dad is willing to build me a table. Can this pretty easily be altered into a longer table? I have a larger family and we also love to entertain.

  • Thomas Sanders Hey guys,
    I just finished my table and the plans were super easy to follow and I love the finished product!

    Are used the briarsmoke stain as suggested and the table top looks great!

    However, the pedestal and the bench that I made to go along with it looks like I used an entirely different stain altogether. It is super blotchy and uneven.

    I sanded all parts of this evenly and I’ve stained many pieces before but I’ve never had this happen. It looks the worst on the pieces that are upright… Almost as if the yellow from the pine is showing through far too heavily.

    Any thoughts or suggestions on how I can correct this?

  • Pingback: 20 Free DIY Farmhouse Table Plans – Crafts & DIY()

  • Jeff-n- Camille

    This is beautiful! How about the three mirrors on the side wall? Did you build them and if so, could you share the steps?

  • ronniev
    • Tami Loecker

      I am having the same problem with the breadboards. Can you explain how you trimmed them to set level? Thanks.

    • How would this hold up outside with the Varathane on it?

  • Brandon McRae
    • Christopher A. Ulrey

      How did you get those colors? finish? What products did you use?

  • Jenni Cruikshank

    Do you have a printable version? 🙂

  • Caroline Hamilton

    Can anyone tell me how many of each screw/nail you have to buy? Or about how much you spent on this project outside of the actual lumber? Just trying to budget this!

  • Flychick
  • Justin Hemphill

    I’m trying to find a safe way to rip the edges off of 2×6’s… any tips here? A 2×6 from any box store has NO flat edges. So running them against your table-saw fence seems like a recipe for catching kick-back in the teeth?

    • JeffB

      you don’t have a kickback guard? I did the tablesaw method worked like a charm. but I have a kick back guard.

      • Justin Hemphill

        I have never ripped a piece that I did not first run across a jointer and/or planer. And no, my table-saw has no riving knife.

        • JeffB

          I would definitely recommend getting as straight and as uniform studs as you can find. Even though I have both a riving knife and a kickback guard attached to it (thing with teeth that lets board only move easily forward through saw) I never even felt a hint of kickback. I did have a couple pieces of the waste from the rip fly off to the side but nothing that could hurt. All that said, I am fairly new to table saws and would never suggest you run something you didn’t feel safe.

          Do you have a jointer/planer? I could see one of those doing the job just fine. Even if you just use it to create one flat side before ripping.

          • Jennifer Usenick

            Hardware! Help! I can’t find the Simpson washers anywhere online or in Home Depot!

          • JeffB

            Not sure if my attempt at replying didn’t post or what. What part of the build are you using Simpson washers for?

  • Kelly Salome

    The link to the chairs goes to a general chairs page on Wayfair. Can you let us know the name/model?

  • Madison

    I’ve really enjoyed working on my table! I’m getting ready to put the breadboards on the top. In the pictorial above, you don’t mention gluing either the top or the breadboards, only using pocket screws. I’ve glued the top slats AND used pocket screws. In the written download instructions it says to use glue and pocket screws. I’ve begun to get small cracks in the table top. Any suggestions on how to stop that/fix it? Anyone else experience this? Thanks!

  • Madison

    I LOVE this table, so I’m making it (trying!). My brand new mitre saw may JUST cut the 4×4 on an angle, so I’m using the 2×4 for the ‘triangle’ support pieces on the leg base. Since the 2×4 may not cover the pocket screw holes, Should I turn the legs so the pocket screw holes are on the inside of the legs? The pocket screw holes on the table top would then be on the outside of the legs and should also be invisible unless someone is looking under the table.

  • Seth Bybee Thank you for the plans and the post. This table was fun to build and not too bad really. I modified it to be 4.5ft x 10ft and did my own stain with steel wool, pennies and vinegar. Really fun.

    • Madison

      Absolutely gorgeous! I also love what you did in the center support.

      • Seth Bybee

        The table was so long, I had to have something there.

        • Melody Smith Harrington

          How many does your table sit Seth? I really want to sit 10-12 people.

          • Seth Bybee

            We sit 14 around it with 0 problem (2 on each end and 5 on each side). Could probably go 16 and it would still be comfortable.

    • Britt Lorette

      This table looks fantastic! Love the stain too! Care to share how you created the stain?

    • Be Logical

      did you lengthen the base parts as well to compensate or just the table top itself?

  • Aldo Civitillo
  • Aldo Civitillo

    I am almost done……but I didn’t build just build a table…..I built memories….first meals, first time visitors, first homework assignments completed, so on and so on. Love you ladies and thank you Shanty for the never ending smiles😊😊.

  • Elise Powell

    Would everything still hold together okay if I used 2″ nails? It seems like most standard nail guns don’t work with 2 1/2″ long nails. The price point for brad nailers that accommodate 2 1/2″ nails goes up a ton! Or I guess my other question would be, can I actually use 2 1/2″ nails in a brad nailer that says it only works with up to 2″ nails? I am set on making this table, but it might not happen as soon as I’d like to if I have to drop so much $$ on a heavy duty brad nailer. Thanks in advance!

    • Brandon Gregg

      I had the same exact question, did you ever get an answer/try it out? Currently, im planning on trying out the 2″ Brads in lieu of the 2 1/2″. It appears the plan set differs from what the pictures above did as well, above it claims they used 2″

      • Elise Powell

        I never got an answer, but I went for it and the 2″ nails worked great. 🙂

    • Jonathan Camp

      She did not use Brad nails. She used finish nails. A Brad nail gun and finish nail gun are totally different. They are two different gauges if you run finish nails in a Brad nailer it would jam up instantly.

  • Grant
    Here is our table and bench. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. See the cuts I made fore the bench below:

    ** Rip 2×4’s to 3” wide and approx. 5 ft. to 2” for leg cross braces & bench top end caps

    5 2×4 bench top – 5 cut to 80” per
    2 2×4 frame runner (top/bottom) w/ 45 ea side – 2 cut to 66” per
    6 2×4 bench legs – cut to 14” per
    2 2×4 top end frame cross braces w/ 45 ea side – cut to 14” per
    2 2×4 top middle frame cross braces w/ 45 ea side – cut to 5.5” per
    2 2×4 bottom frame cross braces w/ 45 ea side – cut to 16” per
    2 2×4 bottom middle frame cross braces w/ 45 ea side – cut to 6.5” per
    4 2×4 end caps w/ 45 – cut to 3”
    3 2×2 brace for legs – cut to 9” (cut to 2” width)
    2 2×2 bench top end caps – cut to 15” per (cut to 2” width) (wait to cut until top is done)

    I glued and screwed everything (Use stainable glue and make sure you wipe any excess). I think I bought 8 or 9 2x4s. I wanted to use the middle supports because I thought it needed a little extra strength there. I also made the base frame a couple inches longer to avoid any tipping. I used the Briarsmoke Stain which turned out great. I used 2 coats of poly all over. I hope this helps!

    • JeffB

      Looks great! Did you add the cross bars and middle leg to the benches just for aesthetics or did you need it for structural support?

      • Grant

        Yes, there is a middle cross brace. I was concerned about structural support so when I designed it I added those 2″ cross braces on each leg. I think it helped and it doesn’t look terrible. It feels really solid considering the whole thing is made out of 3″ boards.

    • Madison


  • Mike

    Looks great and I plan on starting this real soon!

    My 2 cents though. When glueing, I always spread the glue out over the entire surface of the wood and clamp in as many spots as possible. This ensures even glue application and very limited chance that the boards may separate.

    • Madison

      Mike, I started to take your advice after a got a small gap in one of my pieces. I’m using an old hotel room card to spread the glue around and make sure the entire surface is covered. Wish I listened sooner!

  • Steph

    Can you eliminate the 4×4 angled piece and it still be okay structurally?

    • Amy Park

      I eliminated it and haven’t had any issues

      • Madison

        I’m really nervous about using my mitre saw to cut the 31.6 degree 4×4’s for leg support. I spoke to a couple of guys in my local woodworking shop and they said to maintain the structural integrity of the piece, I needed to keep them on. I’m at a bit of an impasse…

        • Mike

          Madison, Try it on a couple of scrap 2×4’s first to get the hang of it. Also, if your saw won’t cut 4×4’s glue together 2 2×4’s, they will be a half inch thinner than the 4×4.

          • Madison

            Thanks Mike! I just used a 2×4 for my first practice run. I put a fence on my mitre saw and that makes me a little more comfortable. Plus, I used a longer piece of 2×4. After I made the first 31.6 degree cut, I then cut the 2×4 down to 10 inches. I felt better doing it that way. It worked, too!

    • JeffB

      I would imagine it’s ability to handle someone sitting on the table and rocking back and forth may be reduced. I don’t know why anybody would do that though.

  • Amy Park

    I built a modified version of this table. I shortened it to 60″ fit in my dining nook, then cut notches in the trestles to slide in breadboard leaves to make it expand to 85″ long. I also used 2x10s for the top, joined with biscuits and glue instead of pocket hole screws. This made it so that the boards would align more easily. I love this table so much! Thanks for sharing plans!

  • Ana R.

    Hey guys! I built the matching bench this weekend using the same idea as JeffB – see his plans below. We used 2x6s on top instead of 2x4s. Excited to get new chairs this week. If you have any questions or need help let me know! 🙂

    • Jose Laffitte


    • JeffB

      Looks great! I may consider doing 2×6 on the bench top too it looks pretty nice. What color stain is that? I really like how the briarsmoke turned out on my table, but your color looks really nice too.

    • Cambryn Willsey

      I would love to know the stain you used as well!

      • Ana Haywood

        It is Minwax Special Walnut.

    • Madison


  • Ana R.

    I am attempting to build the bench tomorrow using 2x4s. I think the structure of the base of the bench is very similar to the table in that you build two of the “bases” and connect them using the legs. I’ll let you guys know how it goes! (I wanted mine in time for Thanksgiving, too. 😉 Love love love how the table turned out!

    • JeffB

      I’m doing the same. I posted my abridged plans a little below. I’d be interested to know how closely your plan matches.

  • Morgan

    Is there a topcoat that you recommend that’s matte finish? I don’t want any shine at all if I can help it

    • Yes! Triple thick matte finish! We use the satin finish and the sheen is very low.

  • Pamela Craig

    Love these plans but i’m wanting to build a matching table and benches. Are the bench plans coming soon? Would love to build before thanksgiving

  • Christopher Craig Wagner

    I really don’t get why it’s taking so long to get these plans:/?

  • Katrine Røsaker Kruger

    any chance you guys can post the bench plans soon….im trying to finish before Thanksgiving?

    • JeffB

      same exact question lol. I’ve guessed at the plans but I feel like I’m missing something important structurally not seeing the underneath of the benches. Looks like 2×4 instead of 2×6 and 1×4 on the ends, but that could just be what I’m seeing and not reality.

    • JeffB

      I finished the construction of my table last night, so I’m just going to go with this:

      Using all 2×4 studs shaved down edges to square off like with the table
      Bench top is 5 2×4 deep, then one 2×4 ripped in half long ways as the end-caps (breadboards on table). That makes the bench 15″ deep, pretty standard seating depth. These are all assembled using wood glue and pocket holes in a similar pattern as the table top. Length of bench boards would be approximately the same as the table, though that’s probably somewhat up to asthetics if the bench should be exactly the same overall length as the table or slightly shorter. Remember the half 2×4 end caps will contribute 3″ to the overall length of the bench. This also means that if you are matching the length of the bench to the table the main 2×4 of the bench top will have to be 4 inches longer than the table top 2x6s. So if you built the table to spec (8 feet long) the bench 2x4s would be 78″ instead of 74″. In another one of their tables they made the bench the same length as the table so even though the perspective of the photos make it seem like it may be a bit shorter, I’m just going with same length.

      The bench base is less complex than the table base as it’s just a single layer of 2x4s instead of a double layer. For the primary “feet” of the bench I’m going to make it follow same ratio as table 75%, so the two “feet” at each end of the bench will be 12″ (rounding up from 11.25″ just to give it a a little more stability). The distance between the legs of the bench appear to be further than the table so instead of a 50.5″ middle brace it would be maybe 12-14 inches more. I’m going to go with 64″. Then the brace end-caps look like they are 4″ with a 45 degree notch cut off the outward facing top edge and looks to be about 3/4″ deep. The legs would be 13.5″ to make the total bench height 18″ (18″ bench height for a 30″ table is pretty standard). The base would be replicated on top of the legs just like the table and that’s what the bench top would be attached to.

      Now I’m a little skeptical of the orientation of the 2×4 legs being enough to withstand the horizontal pressure coming from people sitting down and moving. I could be wrong, but when I get done building it i’ll give it a test to see how well the 4 2×4 with 2 pocket screws do holding it to the base and 2 holding it to the top. I’ll report results here.

      • Matt

        To stand on your shoulders, I’m thinking of using a half lap joint to connect the horizontal parts of the base, screw the legs through those horizontal pieces (to avoid seeing pocket holes) and optionally nail in foot pads.

        • JeffB

          Oh good call. I wasnt even thinking of the visible holes. This is great idea

  • Katrine Røsaker Kruger

    when are you bench plans coming?

  • Taylor

    Just finished this table for our dining room! Now I’m just waiting for those beach plans!! I hope y’all post them soon!

  • Christopher Craig Wagner

    Need those bench plans!!!! Come on ladies your slacking..

  • Shana Vollmuth

    REALLY love this table!! Are the bench plans available yet?? I would like to build it for thanksgiving!

  • Kaitlyn Pratt

    If I didn’t have a table saw, Could you rip the rounded edges off of the 2x6s with a handheld planer or would it not turn out the same?

    • Jose Laffitte

      should be the same except alot more work in my opinion

  • Chris

    Bench looks relatively simple, but anyone have thoughts on how to attach the legs to the base? Seems like simple kreg screw attachment would be too weak.

    • Christopher Craig Wagner

      I bet once the plans are available you’ll see it was well thought thru. I’m guessing glue and a brace with Kreg pocket holes. Either way modify that baby and you’ll be fine:)

  • John Brunner

    Absolutely love this project, started on mine this weekend. modified it slightly to fit our needs, 120″ x 48″ the plans make it so easy, you ladies rock! So how soon can we expect to see the plans for the benches?

    • Michelle

      Would love to know the project list for 120″, that’s the size I need.

  • slamomx3

    this is awesome and I’m HOPING a true “beginner” can figure it out! Would it be possible to make the table height slightly higher to accommodate someone with special needs? If so, what would that change in the plan? Thank you!

  • sportsfever25

    I noticed you only used eight 74″ wall studs for the table top instead of the nine in the diagram. Does that mean I only need 16 wall studs instead of the 17? Also, at some point, did you cut the leg runners to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 instead of the 4″ x 4″?

    • Jose Laffitte

      a 4×4 is really 3 1/2 x 3/12 in size so there should not be any need to cut them down.

    • Stephanie

      We are in the middle of building it and can’t figure out where that 9th 2×6 cut to 74″ goes either or the 9th piece cut to 12″with a 45 degree mitered end. Were thinking that must be a mistake in the plans.

  • Scott Wheeler

    Do you not use wood conditioner prior to staining since it’s pine? You’re stain job looks great; mine always looks funky if I don’t condition the wood first.

  • Christopher Craig Wagner

    Very nice table! Love your work! I was curious tho. I’m not seeing the plans for the benches?!? Maybe I missed where to find them…

  • Super cute!!! This is like the table I’ve been eyeing for our dining room!! But first, we have to make our kitchen table…Oh the list just grew even longer!

  • Steve Spiro

    How would this hold up outside with the Varathane on it? Think it’d do okay?

  • Ahlia Turner

    Would you be able to do a SUPER beginners table? I only have a hammer and nails (sad I know)!

    • I saw the prettiest table and HAD. TO. HAVE. IT. So, in typical fashion, I started planning. Here is how she turned out! Check out my Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table!

    • How would this hold up outside with the Varathane on it? Think it’d do okay?