DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table for $100

Guys.  To say that I am excited about this build would be an enormous understatement.  When I opened the Pottery Barn catalog a few weeks ago my jaw dropped.  I saw the prettiest table and HAD. TO. HAVE. IT.  So, in typical fashion, I started planning.  Here is how she turned out!  Check out my Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table!

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Free Furniture Plans

Free Furniture Plans DIY Dining Table Farmhouse Style by Shanty2Chic

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table

A few of my favorite things about this table…

A. Cost – The lumber total was $101 at Home Depot.  See for yourself in the copy of the receipt I shared on Instagram!

B. Size – I like em chunky.  This one fits that bill.  Nearly the entire thing is constructed from 2×6.  It’s beautiful.

C.  Simplicity – I won’t call this a beginner build, BUT we have simplified the plans to allow you to use a regular Kreg Jig and not the HD.  My brother-in-law received the plans from me about a week ago (perks of being family 😉 ) and this is his VERY first build.  It took him a few days, but he completely nailed it.  So, I feel like its totally attainable at any level with the right tools.

So, let’s go!  As always, I will walk you through the entire build below and you can download and print the FREE plans by clicking HERE!

Find the matching bench plans here!

This table uses 2×6 framing lumber.  On several parts you will “laminate” the boards together to form the larger looking pieces.  To get a really high end look on this piece, I chose to rip all the rounded edges from the boards.  I did this using my table saw.  This takes a little extra time, but it’s SO worth the outcome.  You will run each rounded edge through, leaving you with 5″ width boards.

rip rounded edges with table saw

Screen Shot 2016-08-24 at 6.45.40 PM

Once you have that finished, it’s time to prep the boards for the legs.

I cut the leg pieces next before laminating them together.  I did this so that I would be able to add pocket holes to the legs without having to use the HD jig.  Each leg is two 2×6 with 1.5″ pocket holes on one side and end of each board.  I used my K5 Kreg Jig to make these pocket holes.  This is FOR SURE the Kreg Jig model we would recommend starting with.  You will thank us 🙂  You can find it on Amazon HERE!

cut legs before laminating

kreg jig pocket holes

Next, add a ton of wood glue to your  legs…

add wood glue to laminate

And, clamp them together.  The tighter you can get them on this part, the smaller your seams will be.  BE SURE to attach them the right direction with pocket holes facing out and at opposite ends!

how to laminate the boards

laminate the wood legs

While those were drying, I got started on the base of the table.  You will actually make two identical base pieces.  One will be the actual base that sits on the floor and the other will be the part that supports the table top.

You are basically forming the letter “I” on this part.

base table

I attached both ends using wood glue and 2.5″ pocket hole screws through the pocket holes.

attach base assembly

bottom of base

Next, I cut the additional pieces.   Each of these will have 45˚ bevel cuts.  I used my miter saw for this part.

set saw to 45

bevel cut with saw

bevel cut

I attached these pieces using lots of wood glue and 2″ finish nails with my Ryobi AirStrike finish nailer.

add wood glue to piece

nail side pieces on base

create 2 table bases

Next, you will cut and add them small squares for each end.  I flipped each base assembly upside down on this part.

attach bottom squares

Then, I added wood glue to each end.

glue for base

I attached these squares using 2″ Spax screws.  You can use a drill on this part, but I used my new Ryobi driver that I LOVE.  It’s called the Quietstrike and I am shocked at how much quieter it is than my other driver.

attach spax screws

It’s foot pad time!  These are small squares cut from a 1×6 that will attach to the bottom of one of the base assemblies.

attach foot pads

I also used wood glue and 1.25″ finish nails on this part as well.

wood glue on foot pad

attach the foot pad

base assembly

Now back to the legs!  I unclamped all the legs and started building each leg assembly.

laminated leg of dining table

This will consist of two legs and a small 4×4 runner that goes between each leg.  This is what they will look like.

leg assmebly specs

*Small Note*  Some saws will not be able to cut through a 4×4.  If that is the case with your saw, you can use a 2×4 for this part and laminate it the same way you did the 2×6 in the above steps!

I glued and clamped one leg to the 4×4 to begin with.  You will need 4″ Spax screws for this part!  These are by far one one of our favorite brand of fasteners.  We use them in multiple sizes for different projects.  The T-star head is one of our favorite features.  You can find out more info on Spax brand HERE.

4%22 Spax Screws

I used my driver to attach the legs to the runner.  I put two screws into each side.  These screws will be covered in one of the next steps.

attaching 4x4 piece

I attached the other leg the same way.

leg assembly

Next, I attached each leg assembly to the base.  You will attach these to the base with the foot pads using 2.5″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

attaching legs to base of table

You will attach your top base assembly on top of the legs next and the entire pieces should look like this….

table specs

Now for the slightly tricky part…

Again, you will need to get creative here if your saw won’t make a pass on a 4×4.  I would suggest using a 2×4 on this part to achieve a similar look if you get stuck.  Be very careful making these cuts on the 4×4 and try to clamp your wood as best you can when you cut it.  I cut my 4×4 at the angles noted in the plans.

cut the 4x4

other angle cut

miter cut

I used wood glue and 2″ finish nails to attach these pieces to the base of the table.

glue on diagonal part

nail side pieces

The table top is next!  I added all my 1.5″ pocket holes to my planks and attached them to each other using 2.5″ pocket hole screws.

attach planks

planked top

I attached the breadboards the same way and I was done!  I set the top on the base for photos but waited to get the albatross in the house before attaching them.

DIY dining table built for under $100

I shared my pride on Instagram 🙂

Before staining the table I sanded everything down really good.  This makes the wood take the stain even better.

sand all boards

I chose to use Varathane Briarsmoke stain for my table.  It’s amazeballs.  You will love it.  Best color ever.

Briarsmoke Stain by Varathane

After staining it, I talked my hubby into helping me move her inside so I could get it attached.  I used 4″ Spax screws on this part.  You can find them at Home Depot or on Amazon HERE.  I went through the table base runner and into the table top using 8 screws.

attach base to top

After assembling the table I gave the top a coat of Varathane Triple Thick in Satin to protect the it.  This stuff has an awesome finish to it.  You brush it on and let it dry.  It goes on white and dries clear.

Triple Thick by Varathane

Varathane Triple Thick

Whewwwww that was a lot of pictures.  For those of you that are still with me, here she is again all finished!

Free Furniture Plans DIY Farmhouse Dining Table by Shanty2Chic

Dining Table Free Plans

Free Furniture Plans DIY Dining Table Farmhouse Style by Shanty2Chic

I’ve had lots of questions about the centerpiece bottles and vases.

The vases can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The vintage bottle set can be found HERE on Wayfair.

And, let’s talk about the chairs… I’m in love.  They are super cheap too!  You can find them HERE on Wayfair!

The rug can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The chandelier can be found HERE on Wayfair.

The wall color is Antique White by Sherwin-Williams.

The window panels can be found HERE on Pottery Barn.

The bench plans are coming soon!

Thank you!  I would SO appreciate you sharing this project with all your friends.  Let me know if you have any questions at all!



  1. Daisey on June 1, 2021 at 4:45 pm

    Hi there! Is it possible to make this a 72” table??

    • Vicky on November 26, 2022 at 12:06 pm

      Do you use a wood planer on any of the tables?

  2. Angie on March 15, 2021 at 2:56 pm

    Where do I find bench plans?

  3. Amber on October 25, 2020 at 1:16 pm

    I want to build this table, but I need it bigger. 4’x8′. How would you extend this table?

  4. John Bost on October 11, 2020 at 11:50 am

    Do you have plans for the benches? Thanks so much! Looks amazing!

  5. Al on October 1, 2020 at 1:37 pm

    OK, so it’s been several years since this table plans were posted. Have there been any Bench Plans posted? I did not see any and I read through the entire post.

  6. ed on September 24, 2020 at 10:53 am

    jesus, could there be any more ads on this blog??

  7. ed on September 23, 2020 at 9:33 pm

    2x6x8 only $5.74? never seen that.

  8. ed on September 23, 2020 at 9:30 pm

    most people can’t rip boards…..they don’t have table saws.

  9. Mandy on August 23, 2020 at 9:48 am

    How long and wide is this table? Can’t seem to find that anywhere listed?

    • ed on September 26, 2020 at 2:08 pm

      i know…it’s missing so much information.

  10. WPickens on August 4, 2020 at 3:16 pm

    What are your thoughts about using tongue and groove joints rather than pocket holes screws for the table top?

  11. Bob Dwason on August 2, 2020 at 11:23 am

    I was looking at the top, and in particular the “breadboard” end. Usually, I believe this is done using a mortise and tenon. However, you’re using a butt joint with pocket screws. Will this be substantial enough to support the end piece? Just thought I’d ask in case I needed to re-duct to use mortise and tenon. Otherwise, I think it looks great.

  12. Leslie on April 7, 2020 at 7:54 am

    How could I modify this plan for a 12 foot table? Would I need to build an additional support in the middle?

    • David Maldonado on June 13, 2020 at 10:18 am

      Hello, just finished building the table and I dont need the bench plans would just like to know the length of the benches and the total height. Please and thank you!!

  13. Chris Adams on March 16, 2020 at 1:15 pm

    Almost completed this table project. When I laid out the 8ea 2″x6″ boards, I noticed that the 2 end boards (last 2 boards for top) will be hanging over with only the pocket hole screws supporting them.

    Is this enough support or did I miss a brace under the table top?

  14. Gabriel Cisneros on February 27, 2020 at 4:07 pm

    I just did a table top with 2 in x 6 in framing lumber. I ripped the rounded edges down, then ran them all through a planer and edge glued it all using a few kreg pocket hole screws for added support. The table top was perfect, I came home from work the next day to connect it to the frame and the top had cupped pretty significantly. I get that it is from the wood drying, but is this due to the use of glue, or did I need to fasten it down right away to prevent this?

  15. Brandy Forstie on January 18, 2020 at 11:34 pm

    Thank you for the table plans! We have the table almost finished and are needing the bench plans. Would you be able to email them to me? Thanks so much!

  16. Lacey on December 27, 2019 at 8:23 am

    Hello, can you please provide a link to the benches?

  17. Ryan on November 13, 2019 at 6:12 pm

    Hello are there bench plans available?

  18. Thomas Krolczyk on October 19, 2019 at 4:01 pm

    what about the benches?

  19. Brian on March 25, 2019 at 11:32 pm

    Quick Question:

    I am going to build this table for my wife. And I need something clarified. In the downloadable design plans on the material list – there is 2 1/2″ brad nails listed. Yet, in the instructions above you use your 2in brad nailer with 2in brad nails. Can I assume that 2 1/2” brad nails is either a mistake and are not necessary and I can use 2” brad nails? Thx in advance.

  20. Ryan on January 4, 2019 at 2:16 pm

    The link to the table plans doesn’t open anything but a blank page. How can I get my hands on the printable plans?

  21. Andy on December 10, 2018 at 11:41 am

    Is there a place on your website where you explain your technique for ripping the rounded edges of boards with a table saw? I’m about to attempt this, but am not how to keep the boards steady while ripping since they’re on the longer side. Thanks!

    • DarinB on September 30, 2019 at 1:18 pm

      Andy – your best bet is to get a couple of roller stands to support the weight of the 2×6 as it comes off the table saw. You could also build or buy a feather board to hold it tight to the fence as you guide it through – it’ll be safer that way too…less chance of moving the board and causing a kickback.

  22. Steven Wilson on November 22, 2018 at 9:40 am

    Hey does anyone know if this would work if making it into a 12′ table? Would one support in the middle be enough to hold it.

  23. Tasha on September 19, 2018 at 8:03 pm

    Has anyone done 48 by 108 yet? We are about to start this project soon and would love if anyone has the plans updated for that size.

    • Amber on October 25, 2020 at 1:20 pm

      Did you figure out how to make this table bigger? I’m wanting to do the same. I was thinking of using a 2×10 across the bottom, but thinking it might be too big. Wondering what you ended up doing.

  24. Nikki on July 11, 2018 at 3:40 pm

    What kind of wood did you use? I am having a hard time finding wood any where close to the price you paid.

    • DarinB on September 30, 2019 at 1:30 pm

      Fir or Pine at your local big box store… current Home Depot prices for wood put this table at about $110 plus tax (minus glue, screws, etc)
      17- 2x6x8 @5.74 = 97.58
      1 – 4x4x8 @10.26 = 10.26
      1 – 1x6x6 @3.45 = 3.45

  25. Cara on July 5, 2018 at 2:00 pm

    Are the bench plans now avalialble?

  26. on May 28, 2018 at 4:00 am

    awesome table

  27. Carrot on May 26, 2018 at 1:31 pm

    Can someone verify if it’s 2.5′ wood screws or 2′ wood screws? I believe in the instructions above she mentioned using 2′ wood screws which is not on the material list… thanks!

  28. Jacqueline on March 23, 2018 at 8:04 pm

    What size rug do you typically buy for this size table

  29. Emily Wing on March 14, 2018 at 6:25 pm

    it would be nice to have an actual downloadable plan with a wood list and tool list

  30. Zach on February 15, 2018 at 10:11 am

    I want to make one in this style but would my fiance wants a 10 foot table what modifications to the plans would I need to be made to accommodate these three extra feet?

  31. Brad on February 13, 2018 at 8:30 am

    Have the bench plans been posted yet?

  32. Stefanie on December 30, 2017 at 2:25 pm

    Building the table now! Where can I find the bench plans at?!

    • Harry on January 7, 2018 at 4:44 pm

      Did you find the plans for the benches?

  33. Russell Zacek on November 21, 2017 at 9:06 am

    I am in the middle of this project. I love the plans as they are very detailed and well thought out. I am at the point of assembling the table top, but I the 2×6’s I bought are warped and twisty, so the table top is already looking pretty uneven. I am about to attach the bread boards, but wanted the glue to dry and assess the damages before I do that. Fortunately, I have a friend with a giant CNC machine that agreed to plane the whole thing for me once it dries out and settles.

    Please be highly selective of the boards you buy. Don’t just pick the first 17 2×6’s you can find. Also – I bought a tool to attach to my skill saw to rip the boards to 5″. It worked pretty well and I got a serious shoulder workout in the process.

    I have read in several other blogs about attaching table tops in a way that the boards can expand, suggesting NOT to just screw the top into the base because when the boards expand with seasons and humidity, it will pull out from the screws or bow up. Can you suggest how to attach the table top so that it will be able to handle these fluxuations? Other articles suggested Z-clamps, but I don’t know how that could work in this application.


    • Ben on November 24, 2017 at 9:45 pm

      Lowes is notoriously more expensive than HD

  34. Amy Wilson McMillan on September 11, 2017 at 8:35 am

    I know nothing about woodworking but my dad is willing to build me a table. Can this pretty easily be altered into a longer table? I have a larger family and we also love to entertain.

  35. Jeff-n- Camille on June 17, 2017 at 11:20 am

    This is beautiful! How about the three mirrors on the side wall? Did you build them and if so, could you share the steps?

  36. Jenni Cruikshank on March 30, 2017 at 4:33 pm

    Do you have a printable version? 🙂

  37. Caroline Hamilton on February 24, 2017 at 1:06 pm

    Can anyone tell me how many of each screw/nail you have to buy? Or about how much you spent on this project outside of the actual lumber? Just trying to budget this!

  38. Justin Hemphill on February 3, 2017 at 4:10 pm

    I’m trying to find a safe way to rip the edges off of 2×6’s… any tips here? A 2×6 from any box store has NO flat edges. So running them against your table-saw fence seems like a recipe for catching kick-back in the teeth?

    • JeffB on March 21, 2017 at 1:12 pm

      you don’t have a kickback guard? I did the tablesaw method worked like a charm. but I have a kick back guard.

      • Justin Hemphill on March 22, 2017 at 10:31 am

        I have never ripped a piece that I did not first run across a jointer and/or planer. And no, my table-saw has no riving knife.

        • JeffB on March 22, 2017 at 1:19 pm

          I would definitely recommend getting as straight and as uniform studs as you can find. Even though I have both a riving knife and a kickback guard attached to it (thing with teeth that lets board only move easily forward through saw) I never even felt a hint of kickback. I did have a couple pieces of the waste from the rip fly off to the side but nothing that could hurt. All that said, I am fairly new to table saws and would never suggest you run something you didn’t feel safe.

          Do you have a jointer/planer? I could see one of those doing the job just fine. Even if you just use it to create one flat side before ripping.

          • Jennifer Usenick on April 8, 2017 at 9:30 pm

            Hardware! Help! I can’t find the Simpson washers anywhere online or in Home Depot!

          • JeffB on April 10, 2017 at 1:45 pm

            Not sure if my attempt at replying didn’t post or what. What part of the build are you using Simpson washers for?

  39. Kelly Salome on January 26, 2017 at 5:44 pm

    The link to the chairs goes to a general chairs page on Wayfair. Can you let us know the name/model?

  40. Madison on January 21, 2017 at 1:20 pm

    I’ve really enjoyed working on my table! I’m getting ready to put the breadboards on the top. In the pictorial above, you don’t mention gluing either the top or the breadboards, only using pocket screws. I’ve glued the top slats AND used pocket screws. In the written download instructions it says to use glue and pocket screws. I’ve begun to get small cracks in the table top. Any suggestions on how to stop that/fix it? Anyone else experience this? Thanks!

  41. Madison on January 2, 2017 at 9:37 am

    I LOVE this table, so I’m making it (trying!). My brand new mitre saw may JUST cut the 4×4 on an angle, so I’m using the 2×4 for the ‘triangle’ support pieces on the leg base. Since the 2×4 may not cover the pocket screw holes, Should I turn the legs so the pocket screw holes are on the inside of the legs? The pocket screw holes on the table top would then be on the outside of the legs and should also be invisible unless someone is looking under the table.

  42. Aldo Civitillo on December 16, 2016 at 11:07 pm

    I am almost done……but I didn’t build just build a table…..I built memories….first meals, first time visitors, first homework assignments completed, so on and so on. Love you ladies and thank you Shanty for the never ending smiles????????.

  43. Elise Powell on December 16, 2016 at 9:08 am

    Would everything still hold together okay if I used 2″ nails? It seems like most standard nail guns don’t work with 2 1/2″ long nails. The price point for brad nailers that accommodate 2 1/2″ nails goes up a ton! Or I guess my other question would be, can I actually use 2 1/2″ nails in a brad nailer that says it only works with up to 2″ nails? I am set on making this table, but it might not happen as soon as I’d like to if I have to drop so much $$ on a heavy duty brad nailer. Thanks in advance!

    • Brandon Gregg on May 11, 2017 at 12:05 pm

      I had the same exact question, did you ever get an answer/try it out? Currently, im planning on trying out the 2″ Brads in lieu of the 2 1/2″. It appears the plan set differs from what the pictures above did as well, above it claims they used 2″

      • Elise Powell on August 10, 2017 at 3:19 pm

        I never got an answer, but I went for it and the 2″ nails worked great. 🙂

    • Jonathan Camp on August 10, 2017 at 9:37 am

      She did not use Brad nails. She used finish nails. A Brad nail gun and finish nail gun are totally different. They are two different gauges if you run finish nails in a Brad nailer it would jam up instantly.

    • Ben on November 25, 2017 at 12:01 pm

      Throughout the tutorial she keeps referring to finishing nails. But her tool that is showed is a brad nailer and she lists brads in her materials listing. And the holes that are left after she nails are very tiny. Which should we be using? Brads or finishing nails?

  44. Mike on November 29, 2016 at 5:05 pm

    Looks great and I plan on starting this real soon!

    My 2 cents though. When glueing, I always spread the glue out over the entire surface of the wood and clamp in as many spots as possible. This ensures even glue application and very limited chance that the boards may separate.

    • Madison on January 8, 2017 at 9:38 pm

      Mike, I started to take your advice after a got a small gap in one of my pieces. I’m using an old hotel room card to spread the glue around and make sure the entire surface is covered. Wish I listened sooner!

  45. Steph on November 26, 2016 at 9:56 pm

    Can you eliminate the 4×4 angled piece and it still be okay structurally?

    • Amy Park on November 28, 2016 at 11:27 pm

      I eliminated it and haven’t had any issues

      • Madison on January 7, 2017 at 12:31 pm

        I’m really nervous about using my mitre saw to cut the 31.6 degree 4×4’s for leg support. I spoke to a couple of guys in my local woodworking shop and they said to maintain the structural integrity of the piece, I needed to keep them on. I’m at a bit of an impasse…

        • Mike on January 11, 2017 at 9:35 am

          Madison, Try it on a couple of scrap 2×4’s first to get the hang of it. Also, if your saw won’t cut 4×4’s glue together 2 2×4’s, they will be a half inch thinner than the 4×4.

          • Madison on January 18, 2017 at 5:12 pm

            Thanks Mike! I just used a 2×4 for my first practice run. I put a fence on my mitre saw and that makes me a little more comfortable. Plus, I used a longer piece of 2×4. After I made the first 31.6 degree cut, I then cut the 2×4 down to 10 inches. I felt better doing it that way. It worked, too!

    • JeffB on November 29, 2016 at 11:23 am

      I would imagine it’s ability to handle someone sitting on the table and rocking back and forth may be reduced. I don’t know why anybody would do that though.

      • BooBoo on March 8, 2020 at 4:02 pm

        Legit comment is legit

        • Latcia on January 1, 2022 at 2:42 pm

          I just built this table 2 months ago. I love it. It is gorgeous and hard work. But the top is now splitting. I guess due to seasonal shrinkage/expansion. Anybody know of a better way to attach tabletop rather than the 4 inch screws to allow for expansion? Did anybody else have thus problem?

          • Tom on April 15, 2022 at 8:04 pm

            I used Z clips instead, allowing to expansion through the seasons.

          • Becky on June 17, 2022 at 2:01 pm

            Also remember, if you stain and poly the top, you need to do the same thing to ALL sides of the wood- top, ends, bottom. This will help all pieces of wood to shrink and expand at the same rate. I made that mistake building a bedside table by only finishing the top and sides because nobody was going to see the bottom anyway. My husband’s table warped terribly and I had to remake it.

  46. Ana R. on November 11, 2016 at 11:53 am

    I am attempting to build the bench tomorrow using 2x4s. I think the structure of the base of the bench is very similar to the table in that you build two of the “bases” and connect them using the legs. I’ll let you guys know how it goes! (I wanted mine in time for Thanksgiving, too. 😉 Love love love how the table turned out!

    • JeffB on November 11, 2016 at 12:55 pm

      I’m doing the same. I posted my abridged plans a little below. I’d be interested to know how closely your plan matches.

  47. Morgan on November 10, 2016 at 1:38 am

    Is there a topcoat that you recommend that’s matte finish? I don’t want any shine at all if I can help it

    • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2016 at 6:37 am

      Yes! Triple thick matte finish! We use the satin finish and the sheen is very low.

  48. Pamela Craig on November 8, 2016 at 9:24 pm

    Love these plans but i’m wanting to build a matching table and benches. Are the bench plans coming soon? Would love to build before thanksgiving

  49. Christopher Craig Wagner on November 5, 2016 at 10:56 pm

    I really don’t get why it’s taking so long to get these plans:/?

  50. Katrine Røsaker Kruger on November 2, 2016 at 1:27 pm

    any chance you guys can post the bench plans soon….im trying to finish before Thanksgiving?

    • JeffB on November 4, 2016 at 1:13 pm

      same exact question lol. I’ve guessed at the plans but I feel like I’m missing something important structurally not seeing the underneath of the benches. Looks like 2×4 instead of 2×6 and 1×4 on the ends, but that could just be what I’m seeing and not reality.

    • JeffB on November 11, 2016 at 12:54 pm

      I finished the construction of my table last night, so I’m just going to go with this:

      Using all 2×4 studs shaved down edges to square off like with the table
      Bench top is 5 2×4 deep, then one 2×4 ripped in half long ways as the end-caps (breadboards on table). That makes the bench 15″ deep, pretty standard seating depth. These are all assembled using wood glue and pocket holes in a similar pattern as the table top. Length of bench boards would be approximately the same as the table, though that’s probably somewhat up to asthetics if the bench should be exactly the same overall length as the table or slightly shorter. Remember the half 2×4 end caps will contribute 3″ to the overall length of the bench. This also means that if you are matching the length of the bench to the table the main 2×4 of the bench top will have to be 4 inches longer than the table top 2x6s. So if you built the table to spec (8 feet long) the bench 2x4s would be 78″ instead of 74″. In another one of their tables they made the bench the same length as the table so even though the perspective of the photos make it seem like it may be a bit shorter, I’m just going with same length.

      The bench base is less complex than the table base as it’s just a single layer of 2x4s instead of a double layer. For the primary “feet” of the bench I’m going to make it follow same ratio as table 75%, so the two “feet” at each end of the bench will be 12″ (rounding up from 11.25″ just to give it a a little more stability). The distance between the legs of the bench appear to be further than the table so instead of a 50.5″ middle brace it would be maybe 12-14 inches more. I’m going to go with 64″. Then the brace end-caps look like they are 4″ with a 45 degree notch cut off the outward facing top edge and looks to be about 3/4″ deep. The legs would be 13.5″ to make the total bench height 18″ (18″ bench height for a 30″ table is pretty standard). The base would be replicated on top of the legs just like the table and that’s what the bench top would be attached to.

      Now I’m a little skeptical of the orientation of the 2×4 legs being enough to withstand the horizontal pressure coming from people sitting down and moving. I could be wrong, but when I get done building it i’ll give it a test to see how well the 4 2×4 with 2 pocket screws do holding it to the base and 2 holding it to the top. I’ll report results here.

      • Matt on November 11, 2016 at 5:49 pm

        To stand on your shoulders, I’m thinking of using a half lap joint to connect the horizontal parts of the base, screw the legs through those horizontal pieces (to avoid seeing pocket holes) and optionally nail in foot pads.

        • JeffB on November 12, 2016 at 12:16 pm

          Oh good call. I wasnt even thinking of the visible holes. This is great idea

      • BranMat on August 10, 2018 at 6:17 am

        Thank you!!

  51. Katrine Røsaker Kruger on October 20, 2016 at 1:25 pm

    when are you bench plans coming?

  52. Taylor on October 19, 2016 at 4:42 pm

    Just finished this table for our dining room! Now I’m just waiting for those beach plans!! I hope y’all post them soon!

  53. Christopher Craig Wagner on October 11, 2016 at 3:14 pm

    Need those bench plans!!!! Come on ladies your slacking..

  54. Shana Vollmuth on October 6, 2016 at 11:52 am

    REALLY love this table!! Are the bench plans available yet?? I would like to build it for thanksgiving!

  55. Kaitlyn Pratt on September 23, 2016 at 10:33 am

    If I didn’t have a table saw, Could you rip the rounded edges off of the 2x6s with a handheld planer or would it not turn out the same?

    • Jose Laffitte on October 3, 2016 at 7:02 am

      should be the same except alot more work in my opinion

    • JoseP on December 29, 2019 at 10:26 pm

      If I want to add an extra board to make the table one board wider would The legs still be ok as far as support? Or would I need to go wider there as well. I know I will need to modify the plans to adjust. Thank you

  56. Chris on September 9, 2016 at 2:49 pm

    Bench looks relatively simple, but anyone have thoughts on how to attach the legs to the base? Seems like simple kreg screw attachment would be too weak.

    • Christopher Craig Wagner on September 9, 2016 at 10:45 pm

      I bet once the plans are available you’ll see it was well thought thru. I’m guessing glue and a brace with Kreg pocket holes. Either way modify that baby and you’ll be fine:)

  57. John Brunner on September 6, 2016 at 8:58 am

    Absolutely love this project, started on mine this weekend. modified it slightly to fit our needs, 120″ x 48″ the plans make it so easy, you ladies rock! So how soon can we expect to see the plans for the benches?

    • Michelle on October 30, 2016 at 10:21 am

      Would love to know the project list for 120″, that’s the size I need.

    • ScottG on November 16, 2018 at 6:10 pm

      How is the 10’ table holding up? I am thinking about doing it but nervous about the support system

  58. slamomx3 on August 31, 2016 at 9:04 am

    this is awesome and I’m HOPING a true “beginner” can figure it out! Would it be possible to make the table height slightly higher to accommodate someone with special needs? If so, what would that change in the plan? Thank you!

  59. sportsfever25 on August 28, 2016 at 11:45 am

    I noticed you only used eight 74″ wall studs for the table top instead of the nine in the diagram. Does that mean I only need 16 wall studs instead of the 17? Also, at some point, did you cut the leg runners to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 instead of the 4″ x 4″?

    • Jose Laffitte on October 3, 2016 at 7:04 am

      a 4×4 is really 3 1/2 x 3/12 in size so there should not be any need to cut them down.

      • Marcia on January 1, 2021 at 2:24 pm

        Oh, thank you. I was going through and through on the plans and not being able to locate that 9th piece! Weird the plans haven’t been corrected in YEARS!

    • Stephanie on January 1, 2017 at 12:48 pm

      We are in the middle of building it and can’t figure out where that 9th 2×6 cut to 74″ goes either or the 9th piece cut to 12″with a 45 degree mitered end. Were thinking that must be a mistake in the plans.

  60. Scott Wheeler on August 26, 2016 at 11:08 am

    Do you not use wood conditioner prior to staining since it’s pine? You’re stain job looks great; mine always looks funky if I don’t condition the wood first.

  61. Christopher Craig Wagner on August 25, 2016 at 10:48 pm

    Very nice table! Love your work! I was curious tho. I’m not seeing the plans for the benches?!? Maybe I missed where to find them…

  62. Kayla Huebner on August 25, 2016 at 5:15 pm

    Super cute!!! This is like the table I’ve been eyeing for our dining room!! But first, we have to make our kitchen table…Oh the list just grew even longer!

  63. Steve Spiro on August 25, 2016 at 4:26 pm

    How would this hold up outside with the Varathane on it? Think it’d do okay?

    • Jason on October 26, 2019 at 8:37 pm

      Did you sand all the pieces before assembly?

  64. Ahlia Turner on August 25, 2016 at 8:02 am

    Would you be able to do a SUPER beginners table? I only have a hammer and nails (sad I know)!

    • watch mayweather fights on July 31, 2017 at 6:18 pm

      I saw the prettiest table and HAD. TO. HAVE. IT. So, in typical fashion, I started planning. Here is how she turned out! Check out my Pottery Barn Inspired Dining Table!

    • Green Images Instagram on September 13, 2017 at 1:00 pm

      How would this hold up outside with the Varathane on it? Think it’d do okay?

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