DIY Built-In Spice Rack Between Wall Studs

I started by using my stud finder to locate the two studs that I wanted to build the spice rack between.

Once I found them, I marked their inside edges on the wall. These marks gave me the width of my opening.

I had exactly 14 3/4″ between the studs.

Next, I used my level to draw a vertical line along the inside of each stud. I decided to make my spice rack 57″ tall.

Then, I marked the horizontal top and bottom lines between the studs.

Now, you should have a rectangle drawn on your wall. My opening measured 57″ tall x 14 3/4″ wide.

Make sure your lines are level and the opening is square before making any cuts.

To cut the drywall, I used my Ryobi Rotary Cutter.

I started with the vertical cuts, running the blade along the inside edge of each stud. Then, I made the horizontal cuts across the top and bottom.

Be careful to cut only the drywall and avoid anything behind it.

The cut doesn’t have to be completely smooth because the trim will cover the edges, but try to keep everything as straight and level as possible.

Once the cuts were finished, I pulled the drywall section out.

And this is where I had a little surprise!

I realized that I had installed a toilet paper roll holder on the other side of the wall in our half bath. Those anchors were sticking right into my new opening. Annoying!

So, I had to stop what I was doing and move the toilet paper holder to another wall. Problem solved 🙂

With the drywall removed and the cavity checked, I could measure the opening again and start building the spice rack.

I started by cutting two 1×4 pine boards at 57″ long. These will be the vertical sides of the spice rack.

Before cutting the other pieces, double-check your opening measurements. Even if your studs look evenly spaced, the opening may not be exactly the same width from top to bottom.

I always recommend measuring the actual opening before making the final cuts so you don’t end up with a spice rack that won’t fit!

Next, I used a Forstner bit to drill holes into both side boards for the dowel rods.

I positioned the holes approximately 3/4″ from one edge of each board.

You can see the placement of each hole in the photo above. All of my vertical measurements were taken from the top of the boards.

Make sure the holes on both side boards line up. These will hold the dowel rods that keep the spice jars from falling off the shelves.

Next, I cut nine 1×4 boards at 13 1/4″ long.

Here’s how I calculated that measurement:

• Opening width: 14 3/4″
• Thickness of both side boards: 1 1/2″ total
• Shelf length: 13 1/4″

The two side boards are each 3/4″ thick, so I subtracted 1 1/2″ from the overall width.

I used my Kreg Jig K5 to drill 3/4″ pocket holes into each end of the nine shelf boards.

If you’re new to pocket holes, check out our How to Use a Kreg Jig video tutorial.

Now, it’s time to put the frame together!

I started by attaching the short shelf boards to one of the long side boards using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Start at the top and work your way down, following the shelf placement measurements shown in the photo above. I measured from the top of the board for every shelf position.

The top and bottom boards should be flush with the ends of the long side board.

Once all nine boards were attached, I added the second long side board the same way.

One important thing here: Make sure the second side board is facing the correct direction so that the dowel holes line up with the holes on the opposite side.

Trust me, you’ll be glad you checked before attaching everything! 🙂

With the frame assembled, I flipped the spice rack over so the side with the dowel holes was facing down.

Next, I measured and cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to fit the back of the rack.

My plywood measured approximately 57″ x 14 3/4″, but you’ll want to measure your finished frame before cutting yours.

I applied wood glue along the back of the frame and attached the plywood using 3/4″ staples and my Ryobi 18V stapler.

You can also use a hammer and finishing nails for this step.

Now, flip the spice rack back over.

I used 3/8″ dowel rods for the front of the shelves to keep the spice jars in place.

Instead of cutting all the dowels to one measurement, I fitted each one into its holes, made one end flush, and marked the opposite end where it needed to be cut.

Then, I cut each dowel to fit and repeated the process for all the sets of holes.

This helped me get the right fit for each dowel.

And just like that, the spice rack was ready for the wall!

I carefully placed the finished spice rack into the opening in my pantry wall.

If the fit is a little snug, you can use a rubber mallet to gently tap it into place. Just don’t force it if the frame is too large for the opening.

Once it was positioned correctly, I secured the spice rack to the wall studs using 2″ wood screws.

I used three screws on each side of the spice rack, for a total of six screws.

Make sure the rack is level and properly secured before moving on to the trim.

Now for the part that makes this built-in spice rack look finished!

I started by cutting two 1×4 boards the same length as my shelf pieces, 13 1/4″.

I applied wood glue to the back of the boards and attached them to the top and bottom of the spice rack using 1 1/4″ brad nails and my Ryobi 18-gauge nailer.

Make sure the nails go through the trim and into the shelf framing behind it.

Position the trim so it covers the exposed 3/4″ edges of the top and bottom boards. You can also add a few nails near the corners to hold everything in place.

Next, I measured from the top of the upper trim piece to the bottom of the lower trim piece.

I cut two more 1×4 boards to that measurement for the vertical side trim.

Then, I attached both side pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.

The studs are behind the side trim, so you can nail along the corners and edges to secure the pieces.

I love how the trim frames the entire spice rack and covers those imperfect drywall edges!

Once all the trim was attached, I filled the nail holes and wood screw holes with wood filler.

If you can see any of the pocket holes underneath the shelves, you can fill those too.

I let the wood filler dry completely, then sanded the filled areas smooth to prepare everything for paint.

I painted my built-in spice rack with two coats of Ivory Lace by Valspar to match the trim in my pantry.

Let the paint dry as directed between coats and allow the finish to cure as recommended before loading the shelves with spice jars.

And that was it!