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Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

ByShanty2Chic Hours Posted on
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Learn how to build a farmhouse style dining table for $110 with free plans and a full tutorial. This design is inspired by Restoration Hardware and you can build this solid wood table for a fraction of the price!

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in my new house.  This week I moved into my dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since I started building my new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram! I love the look of a rustic dining table, like the boards came out of a 100-year-old building. Solid pine timbers never looked so good!

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Man I love this table!  The farmhouse table that inspired it is a Restoration Hardware Table that costs $2,205 to purchase, before tax, and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

How to Build a Farmhouse Dining Table

Supplies:

  • 7 – 1x6x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
  • 8 – 2x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
  • 2 – 4x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Posts (can laminate 2 2×4’s)
  • 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Kreg HD Screws (for 4×4’s)
  • 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Stain and/or Paint

Tools:

  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table
DIY Farmhouse Table

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free Farmhouse Table Plans.

restoration-dining-table-plans
DIY Dining Table Free Plans

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building farmhouse tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build! So, let’s build this DIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table!

Building the Table Top

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Tabletop Planks

I started by attaching the tabletop planks, with the 1×6 boards, to create the planked top!

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Drilling Pocket Holes

First, I used my Kreg Jig set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes around the edges of the boards.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon.
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Attaching tabletop planks

Next, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. We love our Kreg Face Clamp for planking table tops.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.
clamp-joints
Farmhouse Tabletop

Easy enough! Time for the table top trim!

Make sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

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Attaching Trim to the Table Top

I started by cutting the long side pieces to size. Then, I attached them to the sides of the table top with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

I followed up by measuring for the width of the table top. I cut my end trim pieces to size and attached them with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws from the end of each plank, into the trim pieces.

Step 2: Building the Base of the Table

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Miter Saw

I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 table base pieces.

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Miter cut on Farmhouse Table Feet

Here’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

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Sanding Table Pieces

Before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this. I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this and sanded with the grain of the boards.

Kreg-Jig-HD
Kreg HD

To attach the 4×4 leg pieces together , I used my Kreg HD to drill the pocket holes into the long base runner.  It’s super easy, just clamp and drill! I attached the runner to the feet with Kreg HD screws.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.
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Dining Table Base

Here is the runners and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher.

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Dining Table Feet

Then, attach the short feet.

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Attaching the Foot Pads

With the table feet upside down, attach a foot pad to each foot.

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Farmhouse Table Base Assemblies
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Dining Table Legs

Flip the feet right-side-up and attach the table legs.

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Assembling the Farmhouse Table Base

Then, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

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Farmhouse Table Legs

Here are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first!

Step 3: Staining the DIY Dining Table

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Rust-Oluem Carrington Stain

Before staining, we like to use the water-popping technique. Just use a damp cloth to wipe the entire table down and let it dry.

I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. Just wipe on one-coat with a dry cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it. Make it your own with any finish you like! We love the variety of stains that Rust-oleum carries!

  • You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon
distress-table-edges
How to get a farmhouse finish on a table

I wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside.

poly
Polyurethane

I did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. The matte gives it a very natural finish and protects the table top from minor spills. Now the table top is more kid-friendly 😉 I would still use coasters and placemats when using the table but this finish makes clean up super easy!

  • You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon

Step 4: Attaching the Table Top to the Table Base

To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.

DIY-Dining-Table-Plans
DIY Farmhouse Table

LOVE it 🙂

Free-Dining-Table-Plans
How to Build a Dining Table
DIY-Dining-Table
Free Plans for a Dining Table
How-to-build-a-dining-table
How to Build a Dining Table
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-Table
Solid Wood Dining Table Plans

I love my new dining room table! Now I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite Farmhouse Table that I have built so far! It completely transformed my dining room and it adds the perfect touch of farmhouse style!

diy-dining-table-benches

Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room? Just click the links below for more info!

diy-bar-cart-2

DIY Bar Cart

Pallet_Art

Pottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art

We have built a ton of gorgeous farmhouse tables over the years! You can click the images below for more free Dining Table Plans.

diy-round-table
DIY-Dining-Table
DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired
diy-wooden-dining-table
table7

Looking for more styles? We have a complete list of over 25 DIY dining table plans so you can find the design that suites you best!

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336 Comments

  1. just went today and bought all the wood to make the table. Was wondering if anyone had a cut list for the legs of the table thank you

    Reply

    1. depends on how much time you have lol. It took me a couple months just doing a little bit here are there. You can easily do it in a weekend if you don’t have any interruptions

      Reply

  3. Finally completed & delivered. The customer and I are really happy with the final result. Put 4 coats of Cabot “midnight” stain/sealer & 3 coats of rustoleum matte polyurethane.

    Thank you for Sharing this Design !

    Reply

  6. Starting this project next week! I would love to know an alternative to using the Kig HD, I just bought the smaller one to help keep down on cost but I read a comment that the smaller one wouldnt work on the 4×4. Any advice would be helpful!! Thanks 🙂

    Reply

  7. can I use the Kreg mini for the 4x4s ? I have had to purchase many tools for this project anyways so if I can save a few $$ I would rather get the cheaper one.

    This is the one I am referring to:

    http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1423710632&sr=8-5&keywords=kreg+jig

    Thanks!

    Reply

      1. Ok thanks. One more question: What if I take the slide out of my K4 ? Can I just clamp that to the 4×4 and do it that way?
        Thanks again.

        Reply

          1. Well the short answer: it’s easier to buy the other jig.

            Long answer: I messed around with a scrap 4×4 block for about 30 minutes and was able to get the k4 jig block in a spot where the screw came through to an ok spot, but not to the center of the joint, which is what kreg suggests is the best placement. However, the hole wasn’t deep enough because the jig has to be so high on the wood. So after drilling the hole, I had to take the jig off and manually drill even further until I got deep enough to where I thought was good. It’s all trial and error and there’s no real exact way to know how deep is good enough. But the drill bit is surprisingly more fragile than I thought and I broke on me when I was doing manual drilling – just snapped right in half.

            So after about a full hour of messing around with it and breaking my boy, I had enough and ordered the other jig. I did some test holes with the new jig and it gets the hole close to the center of the joint, but not 100% there. It looked close to what I was able to get with my trial and error method. The good thing about the jig is that it came with HD screws and a bigger drill bit to accommodate them.

            If you want to try with the k4 jig, go ahead. But I would recommend getting the other jig as well. That way you’ll be able to use the HD screws (the k4 jig hole isn’t big enough for the HD screw drill bit). And you’ll save a lot of time without having to trial and error it. And you won’t curse nearly as much lol. Good luck!

  8. I’ve been checking with Home Depot and Lowes and I have not been able to find 4x4x8′ Pine or whitewood posts. I’ve only been able to find Cedar, Fir or Pressure Treated. Would you recommend using cedar or fir for this or is there somewhere else I should look? I’m going to go to a local lumber store and check there but I have not been able to yet.

    Reply

    1. I looked in my whole area and finally found a lowe’s that had it. It was the only lowe’s in the area that even carried it. You may have to call all the stores in your area or go to an actual lumber yard.

      Reply

    2. I have called every lumber/home improvement store within 50 miles of me and no one has access to untreated 4×4 pine!

      Reply

    3. Home Depot has untreated Douglas Fir 4×4, which is superior to the red pine 4×4 commonly found pressure-treated, as it is much less likely to twist when drying. Fir is second only to yellow pine in strength among easily-available softwoods, and is a whole lot lighter and easier to work with. I’ve found the fir 4x4s to be dry and straight every time I’ve bought them, and surprisingly inexpensive too. Cedar is nice to work with and smells good, but it’s too soft for furniture unless you’re really skilled at joinery. Oh, yeah, one other thing: watch out for splinters when working with fir.

      Reply

  9. Anyone know how to attach the top to the legs? I’m actually making the fancy x table but that one didn’t specify how to attach the top the the legs either

    Reply

  10. gonna have to give this a try this winter. also, i saw a matching wine rack in one of the pics…where are the plans for that?

    Reply

  11. I love this table and have been eyeing it up for some time on your site! Beautiful. I am curious to know how chairs fit in? Does it comfortably fit 2 chairs in the middle between the legs or is it tight?

    Reply

    1. Thanks! Two should fit comfortably. I have a bench in each side with chairs on the end. Bench plans are linked at the top of the post!

      Reply

  12. When i completed building the table, the table top has some flex to it in the corners when you put some weight on it which pushes the other corners up/down. how did you/can you remove the flex? i used a nail gun for practically everything.

    Reply

    1. Hi John,
      I don’t have that issue with mind. I used pocket holes and glue. Maybe this is what is causing it? Did you use glue?

      Reply

  13. Love this table, had my husband build it. Here’s the problem with it though. Unless you are planning on building the benches to go with it, it’s an impractical table. With a regular chair, it is difficult to get in and out because the X-cross beams block free movement of your legs. Also, it is difficult to space regular chairs under the X-cross beams as is shown in one of the pictures below. Wish I had known this before and that someone had mentioned this issue. Do not want to have a “picnic table” sitting in our dining room, so sadly, I think this table will end up outside after my husband builds the benches. Just wanted to give an honest heads-up to anyone considering this build.

    Reply

  14. Hi there! My husband & I just built this but have not yet attached the top to the legs. I can’t seem to find in the directions how to drill the pocket holes when attaching the top– it’s very vague. Any help would be great appreciated!

    Reply

    1. I skipped the Kreg PH and simply drilled two holes from each end top piece 6 in total and used Gold 2 Inch screws. Worked like a charm

      Reply

  15. Hello, Quick question… the HD Pocket Holes in the vertical 4×4 legs, do you leave them open since Kreg doesn’t make plugs that big or do you have a tip for hiding them? Thanks

    Reply