Easy DIY Console Table

Hey guys! I’m a sucker for a console table and this one is one of my favorites! I’ve been needing something for the back-side of my couch to break up the room a bit. It’s a very open room that opens to the entry way so this table was a great way to separate the spaces!

Easy-DIY-Console-TableIt is so incredibly easy to build and I assembled the whole thing with my Ryobi Airstrike finish nailer! It’s 4 1/2″ feet long and would work great in so many areas of your home – oh and it only cost me about $100 including the casters πŸ™‚

As always, we’ve got the FREE printable plans for you! You can click HERE or the image below to print them.

click-for-free-console-table-plansA big thank you to our friend Jay from Jay’s Custom Creations for providing the printable version for this DIY Console Table plans!

I’ve also got the step-by-step tutorial for you! Here we go πŸ™‚

legs-for-tableI started by attaching the 1×3 and 1×4 pieces, with Gorilla Wood Glue and my 16 gauge finish nailer.

attach-bottom-frame-to-legsNext, I attached the bottom of the legs to the bottom frame – the bottom of the legs will be flush with the bottom of the frame.

attach-top-frameThen, I attached the top frame the same way. I drove my nails from the inside of the frames into the legs to hide the nail holes.

attach-bottom-planksAfter cutting the bottom slats, I attached them to the bottom frame. The ends of the slats will be flush with the edges of the bottom frame. I used wood glue and 1 1/4″ nails here.

bottom-slats-attachedHalfway done πŸ™‚
attach-side-anglesI attached the side angle pieces from the inside of the console table into the legs.

side-pieces-attachedNotice the direction the angles are going. This is important so that the back pieces fit properly.

attach-back-angle-piecesNext, IΒ attached the back angle pieces the same way. Β The best way to install the back pieces is to make sure the outside edges are flush with the inside of the table legs. Then, the pieces will split center. I nailed through the bottom of the angle piece into the top frame.

attach-back-anglesReady for the top!

diy-console-table-before-stainI attached the top slats with wood glue and my finish nailer. I nailed from the top of the table into the top frame, making sure to also attach them to the center supports.

Varathane-early-americanFor the finish, I applied one coat of Varathane Early American. I wiped it on with a clean cloth, let it sit for 5 minutes and then blended it with a fresh clean cloth.


I bought these 3″ locking casters from Home Depot. I wanted black casters (gray works perfectly though) so I spray painted the wheels with Rust-Oleum Chalkboard spray paint. I like to use the Chalkboard paint because it’s a great flat paint. To attach the casters, I predrilled a pilot hole a little bit wider than the bolt on the casters and secured it with a washer and bolt. You will need to purchase the washers and bolts separately from the casters.


That was it!! I designed this to coordinate with my Rolling Ottomans πŸ™‚


You can get the plans for these HERE!

Easy-DIY-Console-TableI LOVE it πŸ™‚ It makes the perfect table for the back of my couch!

We shared this table on the Airstrike video we shot for Ryobi! Check out the video for 2 other project ideas using the other tools in the Airstrike Family! Make sure you are logged-in to Ryobi Nation or sign up to view the video! You can see the video HERE!

  • Vicki

    Can you use the 18GA Brad nailer for this project or has to be the larger finish nails?

  • Andrea Kirkland

    What are the ending dimensions of the table? Thanks!

  • Jon Marquez

    Oh and I will not be putting it on casters to prevent my dog from moving it around when he adjusts.

  • Jon Marquez

    I want to make this console table but with different measurements. I have no idea how to find the miter angle of the side and back planks if I change the dimensions. Some help would be awesome. I want to make the inside measurement of the base to be 26″x40″ and a finished height of 36″. My goal is to not put the slats on the base and to put a 26″x40″x3″ dog bed in the base so I can have my table and a spot for my dogs bed so things could look more tidy in my living room. Any help would be amazing.

    Thank you.

    • Hey Jon,
      Just hold the board where you want it and mark a line where the boards meet. Then match your blade up to the line πŸ™‚ hope this helps!

      • Jon Marquez

        That was my original plan, but didn’t know if there was a specific way you measured for the proper angle. Thank you for your help.

        • Sure! That’s the way I always do it. Seems to be the easiest for me and I always get a perfect fit πŸ™‚

  • Susanne Mulligan

    I love your ceiling fan… do tell where you bought it πŸ™‚

  • stephanie

    Made this and I love how it turned out. Thanks for posting free plans!

  • Pingback: 50 Decorative Rustic Storage Projects For a Beautifully Organized Home - DIY & Crafts()

  • Katy Pritzl

    I really love this plan, and love the room it’s in! Do you happen to know the brand of paint and the color? We are building, and will have similar floors. Love seeing this inspiration!

  • Jake Russell

    Are u just staining most of these tables and not adding a sealer?

    • If they will see a lot of use I am sealing them. It’s best to seal all stain πŸ˜‰

  • Crystal Bragg

    Is the flooring that’s in these pictures the Laminate or real wood flooring?? I LOVE it!! πŸ™‚

  • avrilabraham

    Anyone any ideas

  • avrilabraham

    Can you tell me the height of your dining table and th in desk that matches please

  • Jessica

    I love the table and floors. Do you mind sharing the brand name and color of the floors?

  • Brody

    One thing you might want to notice is that the majority of the frame is built out of clear pine as well as the braces. The top also looks like it was clear pine, but I couldn’t tell from the photos. The only thing that is not clear pine is the bottom shelf top and the front and back of the legs. My guess for doing this is to make sure the frame is square and straight then you get the look of the of old wood in certain places.

  • Pingback: Easy DIY Console Table + MORE - Plumber Workers in DC()

  • hailey

    what are the complete dimensions on this?

  • Pingback: Vote for Barton Malow/Daytona Int'l Speedway in Cast in Place Projects category for Tekla’s Global BIM Awards! http://t.co/JoXOjPTAJ2 + MORE - The Farm Plumbers()

  • Pingback: Holiday Plumbing Prep Checklist: Are You Ready for Guests? + MORE - Attend TV For Plumbing()

  • Pingback: Vintage-Edwardian Building Tastefully Upgraded Into Modern Home + MORE - Partly Cloudy Plumbing()

  • Pingback: Mud bricks and woven rattan used to build an affordable preschool in Morocco + MORE - Correspondence Plumbers For you()

  • Pingback: Easy DIY Console Table + MORE - Sakura Plumbing()

  • Pingback: top 10 taking online surveys for money()

  • One of my favorites! (And i’m with you on the flat black/chalkboard paint.)

  • Debora Cadene

    ,Another great project. Thanks ladies. I do have a question about choosing your wood. I have Menards to shop at, and they have Standard, Quality and Select boards, each going up in price and “supposidly” a better cut of wood which has less knots, and gets straighter… but not always the case.) I go into the store with a list to make a few things and spend TONS of time trying to find straight, flat wood and most times, I come out with nothing because i couldn’t find enough to finish a project. What do you girls look for when shopping for your wood and at what point do you say “good enough” and bring it home? I will find a wider board and lay the ones I am trying to find ontop of that to see if it is straight on the edges or lays flat, but even that doesn’t work so good. Any ideas or tips on being happy with the wood I bring home would be really appreciated. I just wanna make some stuff, and as I mentioned, the hardest part is finding wood that won’t look stupid. Picking wood, at least for me….takes WAY longer then I think it should…please help…if you can.

    • Hi Debora!
      What a great question!!! Sometimes, we are left having to go to another store to find enough wood but the majority of the time we leave with complete shopping lists. You will have to say “good enough” to get enough wood. If you know that a board will be cut into several smaller pieces or that you will be securing it in several spots (such as a planned table top) then a slight bow, from one end to the other, in the board is ok. If one side won’t show am then you can get by with a board that is a little “chewed up”) on one side. What you want to stay away from is boards that have a twist to them or that bow from one edge to the other. Really, no boards are perfect but try to pick the best! The Kreg Jig can minimize small imperfection. And, we go with the cheaper boards rather than premium because we like the knots. Hope this helps and good luck πŸ™‚

      • Debora Cadene

        Thank you for your reply. I am my own worst enemy and need to lighten up a little I guess. Now I need to gather up my list and head to the lumber yard. thank you again!!

  • Boricua28

    Hi there. Awesome job! Did you use 1 1/4 finish nails to build the whole thing?