Learn how to build a farmhouse style dining table for $110 with free plans and a full tutorial. This design is inspired by Restoration Hardware and you can build this solid wood table for a fraction of the price!
Hey there! I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in my new house. This week I moved into my dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since I started building my new house! You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram! I love the look of a rustic dining table, like the boards came out of a 100-year-old building. Solid pine timbers never looked so good!
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Man I love this table! The farmhouse table that inspired it is a Restoration Hardware Table that costs $2,205 to purchase, before tax, and I built mine for $110! Wow, wow, wow! I still can’t believe it!
Table of Contents
How to Build a Farmhouse Dining Table
Supplies:
- 7 – 1x6x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
- 8 – 2x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
- 2 – 4x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Posts (can laminate 2 2×4’s)
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- Kreg HD Screws (for 4×4’s)
- 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
- 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
- Wood Glue
- Stain and/or Paint
Tools:
- Miter Saw
- Drill
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you! Just click the image below or HERE for the free Farmhouse Table Plans.
And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own! I love building farmhouse tables because you get so much bang for your work and money. They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build! So, let’s build this DIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table!
Building the Table Top
I started by attaching the tabletop planks, with the 1×6 boards, to create the planked top!
First, I used my Kreg Jig set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes around the edges of the boards.
- You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon.
Next, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. We love our Kreg Face Clamp for planking table tops.
- You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.
Easy enough! Time for the table top trim!
Make sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.
I started by cutting the long side pieces to size. Then, I attached them to the sides of the table top with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.
I followed up by measuring for the width of the table top. I cut my end trim pieces to size and attached them with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws from the end of each plank, into the trim pieces.
Step 2: Building the Base of the Table
I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 table base pieces.
Here’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.
Before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander. I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough. I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this. I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this and sanded with the grain of the boards.
To attach the 4×4 leg pieces together , I used my Kreg HD to drill the pocket holes into the long base runner. It’s super easy, just clamp and drill! I attached the runner to the feet with Kreg HD screws.
- You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.
Here is the runners and the feet assembled. Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher.
Then, attach the short feet.
With the table feet upside down, attach a foot pad to each foot.
Flip the feet right-side-up and attach the table legs.
Then, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs. I used 2 1/2″ spax screws. They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!
Here are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first!
Step 3: Staining the DIY Dining Table
Before staining, we like to use the water-popping technique. Just use a damp cloth to wipe the entire table down and let it dry.
I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. Just wipe on one-coat with a dry cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it. Make it your own with any finish you like! We love the variety of stains that Rust-oleum carries!
- You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon
I wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over. I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside.
I did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. The matte gives it a very natural finish and protects the table top from minor spills. Now the table top is more kid-friendly 😉 I would still use coasters and placemats when using the table but this finish makes clean up super easy!
- You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon
Step 4: Attaching the Table Top to the Table Base
To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.
LOVE it 🙂
I love my new dining room table! Now I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room! I have to say that this is by far my favorite Farmhouse Table that I have built so far! It completely transformed my dining room and it adds the perfect touch of farmhouse style!
Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE
Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley
Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room? Just click the links below for more info!
Pottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art
We have built a ton of gorgeous farmhouse tables over the years! You can click the images below for more free Dining Table Plans.
What are the finished dimensions of this table?
Hi, can you tells what kind of floors are in your house? I love them!
Thank you Brooke! I shared a link to the flooring at the end of this post 🙂
How do you clamp down the pocket hole joints in the MIDDLE of the table? The clamps don’t reach! Please help thanks
Hey josh! I work from one end to the other so I’m adding 1 board at a time and clamping that board… Make sense? Then it only has to reach the width of 1 board…
Yes, thanks so much, u gals are great
What are the finished dimnesions?
7 ft x 41.5″
Finished height?
Hi Guys, I absolutely love what you guys are doing here! I am having trouble finding untreated pine or whitewood 4x4x8 posts in my area. Did you find them at your local home depot? Thanks and cannot wait to get started on this project!
Keep searching. They are out there. Lowes and Home Depot stopped selling untreated 4X4’s for some unknown reason. Check your local lumber yards
We do find them at Home Depot but try a local lumber yard too!
Will the Kreg Jig K4 work for this project?
Yes!!
Great! What about for making the pocket holes in the 4x4s? This is the first time I’m using my Kreg Jig K4, but I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and the measurements don’t look like they aren’t made for a 4×4. Thanks in advance!
I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and was wondering I can use the regular Kreg jig or if there is a different way to join the 4×4’s.
You could use and make dowels
Could you explain how to use the K4 on the 4x4s? I can’t find anything on the kreg site that helps! Thanks!!
Hi Natalie,
The 4×4’s need the Kreg HD… The HD drills pocket holes in 2×4 and 4×4
Is there a way to do this project without the Kreg HD??
I can’t for the life of me figure out how you’ve added the angled bracing. Are the any better photos of this spot?
Hey! I used 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue but for those without a brad nailer, counter sinking screws is the best way!
Thanks!
Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start
I used my brad nailer and wood glue. We suggested wood screws for those that don’t own nailers but 1/4″ brad nails will work and may be easier. If you are going to use wood acres, just pre drill at an angle into the leg and foot where the joints touch. Hope this helps!
Hey ladies. Just curious, did you use poly on the entire table or just the top?
Hey there! I just poly the table top. It’s probably best to poly the entire thing with at least one coat 🙂 your table looks awesome!!!
I have a delimma…in step 10 where you drill the keg jog holes to attach the table top…I’m not quite sure how to do that since the layers are already assembled. I may be reading it wrong, and there weren’t any pics of that step:/. Any guidance would be great. Thanks so much for the wonderful plans!
Hi Casey! You can use your Kreg Jig as the plans show (just take the block out of the Kreg Jig and clamp it) or just drill 2″ wood screws from under the the longest layer into the table top (that’s what I did so I didn’t have to bring as many tools in the house) 😉 hope this helps!
Thanks for clearing that up. We’re so excited about this table:)
Awesome!!! Happy to help:) share pictures with us once you are done, please 🙂
Can I do this table 6’ long ? If I can do it smaller, do I have to do the legs smaller too ?
The table looks great! Thanks for the plans. The only question I had
is how did you securely attach the 45˚ leg supports to the actual leg
for the table? I’ve been trying to clamp the pieces to be able
to counter screw them together but the pieces keep slipping. Any advice
on how to keep the two pieces together?
That’s awesome to hear! I actually just used wood glue and nailed them with my Airstrike. It’s not as secure but once the glue dries it’s fine!
The table came out great! Curious did you use pocket holes to attach the trim?
I did! Thank you!
Simply gorgeous!!
Thanks Erin 🙂
Would the legs support this if we made the top 6’x6′? you are so talented!!
Thank you Lindsay! They should work fine! I would adjust the width though to accommodate the added width of the table top 🙂
Can you make this a 6 foot table? Would anything besides the top need modification??
Just adjust the table top and stretcher 🙂
Love the table and the cart and………. Yep going to give one of these projects a try !
Lol! Thank you Janny!!
I love how intricate these legs look, even though the build doesn’t look too complicated. I am planning to build a dining table this spring and have been admiring all your plans for a while now. Since we have 8 people in our family, and often have company, I’d like to seat about 10 at our table. Which do you think would be the best plan to make a really big table? Which leg formation is most comfortable for those sitting on the ends?
Hi Lynn! You could have 10 here with seats
At the ends. I have a parsons chair at each end and it’s great 🙂
Your table is fabulous. I love, love, love it. Wow, I am impressed.
Thank you so much!
Ashley, what did you use after you stained the table for water spills?
Thanks for the info, I don’t know if I missed it the first time around looking at your tutorial.
Lovely table btw!
Just added it! Sorry for the confusion:) thank you!
So sorry! I forgot to add that to the post 🙂
Gorgeous piece. You sure do have a lot of tables… are those all in your own house?
Thank you Lori! We both have one outside and inside and we give sell our old ones when it’s time to update 🙂
Love it! So you guys are making all your own plans now? I am always amazed to see how everything comes together – I could never do the math involved!
Thank you Cassie:)
does anyone have the plans/dimensions for this table as a 6 vs 8 person table? Our neighbors love our table and want the same but need it slightly smaller