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Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

ByShanty2Chic Hours Posted on
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Learn how to build a farmhouse style dining table for $110 with free plans and a full tutorial. This design is inspired by Restoration Hardware and you can build this solid wood table for a fraction of the price!

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in my new house.  This week I moved into my dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since I started building my new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram! I love the look of a rustic dining table, like the boards came out of a 100-year-old building. Solid pine timbers never looked so good!

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Man I love this table!  The farmhouse table that inspired it is a Restoration Hardware Table that costs $2,205 to purchase, before tax, and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

How to Build a Farmhouse Dining Table

Supplies:

  • 7 – 1x6x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
  • 8 – 2x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Boards
  • 2 – 4x4x8 Pine or Whitewood Posts (can laminate 2 2×4’s)
  • 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Kreg HD Screws (for 4×4’s)
  • 1 1/4″ Brad Nails
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Stain and/or Paint

Tools:

  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table
DIY Farmhouse Table

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free Farmhouse Table Plans.

restoration-dining-table-plans
DIY Dining Table Free Plans

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building farmhouse tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build! So, let’s build this DIY Restoration Hardware Dining Table!

Building the Table Top

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Tabletop Planks

I started by attaching the tabletop planks, with the 1×6 boards, to create the planked top!

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Drilling Pocket Holes

First, I used my Kreg Jig set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes around the edges of the boards.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon.
attach-planks
Attaching tabletop planks

Next, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. We love our Kreg Face Clamp for planking table tops.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.
clamp-joints
Farmhouse Tabletop

Easy enough! Time for the table top trim!

Make sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

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Attaching Trim to the Table Top

I started by cutting the long side pieces to size. Then, I attached them to the sides of the table top with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

I followed up by measuring for the width of the table top. I cut my end trim pieces to size and attached them with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws from the end of each plank, into the trim pieces.

Step 2: Building the Base of the Table

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Miter Saw

I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 table base pieces.

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Miter cut on Farmhouse Table Feet

Here’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

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Sanding Table Pieces

Before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this. I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this and sanded with the grain of the boards.

Kreg-Jig-HD
Kreg HD

To attach the 4×4 leg pieces together , I used my Kreg HD to drill the pocket holes into the long base runner.  It’s super easy, just clamp and drill! I attached the runner to the feet with Kreg HD screws.

  • You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.
base-with-stretcher
Dining Table Base

Here is the runners and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher.

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Dining Table Feet

Then, attach the short feet.

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Attaching the Foot Pads

With the table feet upside down, attach a foot pad to each foot.

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Farmhouse Table Base Assemblies
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Dining Table Legs

Flip the feet right-side-up and attach the table legs.

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Assembling the Farmhouse Table Base

Then, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

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Farmhouse Table Legs

Here are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first!

Step 3: Staining the DIY Dining Table

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Rust-Oluem Carrington Stain

Before staining, we like to use the water-popping technique. Just use a damp cloth to wipe the entire table down and let it dry.

I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. Just wipe on one-coat with a dry cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it. Make it your own with any finish you like! We love the variety of stains that Rust-oleum carries!

  • You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon
distress-table-edges
How to get a farmhouse finish on a table

I wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside.

poly
Polyurethane

I did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. The matte gives it a very natural finish and protects the table top from minor spills. Now the table top is more kid-friendly 😉 I would still use coasters and placemats when using the table but this finish makes clean up super easy!

  • You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon

Step 4: Attaching the Table Top to the Table Base

To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.

DIY-Dining-Table-Plans
DIY Farmhouse Table

LOVE it 🙂

Free-Dining-Table-Plans
How to Build a Dining Table
DIY-Dining-Table
Free Plans for a Dining Table
How-to-build-a-dining-table
How to Build a Dining Table
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-Table
Solid Wood Dining Table Plans

I love my new dining room table! Now I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite Farmhouse Table that I have built so far! It completely transformed my dining room and it adds the perfect touch of farmhouse style!

diy-dining-table-benches

Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room? Just click the links below for more info!

diy-bar-cart-2

DIY Bar Cart

Pallet_Art

Pottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art

We have built a ton of gorgeous farmhouse tables over the years! You can click the images below for more free Dining Table Plans.

diy-round-table
DIY-Dining-Table
DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired
diy-wooden-dining-table
table7

Looking for more styles? We have a complete list of over 25 DIY dining table plans so you can find the design that suites you best!

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336 Comments

    2. I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff

      Reply

  2. Here are my pics. Went 8′. Noticing my top planks are pulling away from the 2×4 frame. Must not have been completely dry. Will likely need to fill in a bit with wood filler once it settles. Luckily my finish is already a bit “distressed” (not on purpose). Very happy with the results though.

    Reply

  3. How big is the final product of this table? I am looking for a table that is 3×6 and am hoping that this is the approximate size of this table?

    Reply

    1. The exact size of this table is W: 3′ 5 1/2″ x L: 7′ 3″ H: 2′ 7 1/4″. This is according to the plans. Hope this helped. 🙂

      Reply

    1. the stain may not take the same. for some reason untreated pine 4x4s are really hard to find! I had to call around for a while before I found some and they weren’t in the best shape — looked decent after a good sanding with 60 grit sandpaper though

      Reply

  7. I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    Reply

    2. Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      Reply

      1. Hey Jarmar 🙂 Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know 🙂 Thank you Jarmar.

        Reply

        1. I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

          Reply

        2. I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

          Reply

        3. What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?

          Reply

          1. Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.

          2. maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear

          3. Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?

          4. Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!

        4. Robert,

          I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.

          I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?

          2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?

          Thanks so much!

          Reply

          1. Jeremy,

            Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!

          3. I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.

            Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.

            How long was your bench?

            Thanks,
            Jeremy

          4. Hey Robert,

            Where did you find 4x4s that were pine and not treated wood?

            Thanks,

            Eric

          5. Hey Eric, so what I did was get two 2×4’s since true untreated 4×4 are hard to find in my area. I ripped an 1/8″ off the edges on my 2×4 to get rid of the round over and glued the two together to make a 4×4. However it’s also not a true 4×4 but it worked for me. So in the end it was a 3 1/4″X3″ (aka 4×4) haha. If you need any additional help or tips. You can reach me at info@rawwoodwork.com. I would be more than happy to help. Knowledge is free. Cheers. Rob

        5. Hey Robert,

          I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
          To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?

          Thanks,
          Jeremy

          Reply

    3. beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!

      Reply

    4. Hello Robert,
      Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
      Thank you for posting

      Reply

      1. Shawn, I just used minwax semi gloss poly and used about 8 layers. Sanding inbetween each layer.

        Reply

    7. I plan on doing this table like you have it as well. it looks amazing side note, you dont have the plans for the side table behind it? do it?

      Reply

    8. Hey Robert,

      Nice work here! Quick question regarding the 1/8th” rip on either side of your 2x6s. Did you find that the table wasn’t’t wide enough then? Did you compensate at all for that loss being that the plan doesn’t call for that? Doing the math the table would only be 39 1/4 wide then?

      Thanks!

      Reply

  8. So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    Reply

    1. I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      Reply

      2. Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.

        Reply

        1. Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them 🙂

          Reply

  10. I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    Reply

      1. Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

        Reply

  13. Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    Reply

      3. Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!

        Reply

  14. I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

    Reply

    1. I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol

      Reply

    1. Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

      Reply