Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free plans.

click-for-free-plans

restoration-dining-table-plansA huge shout-out to Jay at Jays Custom Creations for creating printable plans for us to share with you!

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes. You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon.

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces.

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Ryobi Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill! You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot

foot-pads

legs-assembledNow, the legs

add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. (You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon) Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. (You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon).

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it 🙂

Free-Dining-Table-Plans

DIY-Dining-Table

How-to-build-a-dining-table

 

Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years 🙂  You can click the images for the tutorials!

diy-round-table

DIY-Dining-Table

DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired

diy-wooden-dining-table

table7

 

 

 

  • Bonnie

    Hi there! I LOOOVE this table and was all prepared to build it…we even got most of the wood and any equipment we didn’t already have, only to realize that 4x4x8’s in pine are nowhere to be found where we live!! 🙁 I can special order rough knotty pine but it’ll be 12′ and pretty expensive, too. 🙁 Do you have any suggestions for alternatives to the 4x4x8’s?? Thanks in advance! 🙂

  • Markus

    Hello Shanty 2 Chic,

    What a beautiful table you have built! Your website is like a candy store for my wife as we like rustic furniture.

    I am planning to build this table for my wife. I was looking into different types of wood as I am not sure what I want to use yet. It would be more expensive but do you have any opinions on wood such as Notty Pine, Oak, Cedar, or Maple? What in your opinion would be the most durable wood to use? Also I am looking through your plans to build a patio table as well, what type of would would you suggest for outdoor durability. I live in Alberta so we defiantly have changing climates so the more durable the better.

    Thank You
    Markus

  • Spencer Poole

    Hi, I love this table. I just got done building mine but I had to put some wood filler into the inside joint of all of the 2x4s around the table edge because some of the gaps were too large. Any idea how to smooth the filler down a bit as my sander can’t fit down in between the joints?

  • RikiDam

    Hello, I write from Italy, great plan and explanation. I have a question: how much weight can tolerate the pedestals? I would like to use one of the beams you see in the pictures that have thicknesses of about 8 cm of solid wood. Thanks for the reply. Hello.

  • Cindy Dabney

    I had a really hard time leveling the table. I followed all the directions but when I put the stretcher on the first time I only screwed in slightly to make the holes. I think I should have screwed the HD screws all the way in to make sure it was sitting level before I removed it and proceeded? Any tips you can give would be appreciated I still had to schim the top before I screwed in to the base to get it level as well. Was a bit of a challenge. I want to make another one for my daughter so any help would be appreciated.

  • Don

    Hi. I’m about to embark on this project for my kids and their new home. My son is concerned the thin 1x6s for the top will sound hollow and not substantial. I’m concerned the thin planks could split and check. Could you provide your thoughts on this? Thanks

  • Jean-yves Gourlay

    Great plans and explanations. Very dry wood is a must if you use 1″ on the bench and table top, otherwise it will separate from the 2″x 4″ frame. I did a 99″ table and bench , would not have been possible without the Kreg system.
    Thanks again for your time and all the details.
    jyg

  • stephanie smith

    Hi there! Attempting to make this table next weekend. I see that you need the Kreg HD for the 2×4 and 4×4 pieces. Is it possible to use the Kreg Jig R3 for the 1×6 pieces? Excited to start – wood working first timer! 🙂

  • Maria Ashraff

    Hi Shanty2Chic…we made a farmhouse table using your plans with some modifications. For the tabletop we wanted breadboards…so we used the tabletop from another one of your tutorials and for the base we used this one. We mostly used mortise/tenon joints. Wanted to share the pictures here, and thank you guys for providing the plans and inspiration. 🙂

    • Maria Ashraff

      Here’s another view.

  • Holly Green Christiansen

    Thank you for the awesome plans! We love our table! Here is a picture of how my husband finished ours. Now for the seating…..

  • Holly Green Christiansen

    Here’s a pic of how my husband finished ours.

  • Holly Green Christiansen

    Thanks for the wonderful plans! Love how it turned out!

  • Carrie Higgs McCallus

    I’m curious how much you all spent on wood, so far I am up to $160 just on wood, Not including any of the screws.

    • Rowewillj

      Lumber cost me about $120 (all select pine) there’s a Kreg Screw Kit for $24 on Amazon and at Home Depot that has all the 1/4 screws and HD screws you will need, just need to get a $7 container of Coarse 2 1/2″ screws from the home store.

      So that’s $151. I had the Kreg Jig and HD already, not to mention the clamps and things but if you go to buy that you can spend from $75-$150 for the jigs themselves.. Another $20 per clamp and you’ll need more than 1 and a 6″ for sure!

      if you have the tools and just need wood and screws like I did, $151 was my total (plus tax) haha!

      • Lumber prices vary by location. We try to give an estimate but the best way to estimate your cost is to look up the supplies online. Hope this helps!

  • Vidal Quevedo

    Hi, first off, LOVE this site. I have already built one of your coffee tables and the wheeled bookshelf, and really appreciate all the cool info you guys share!

    Next, I’m thinking of building this table. But I have one question: based on the design with a “center” base, how stable is the table itself? I have a 2 yr old that likes to cling/climb on things, and I was wondering if the table could at all tip over on its side if a 30+ pound kid hung on one of its long edges.

    Just a safety question (might be completely overblown, but just had to ask =) )
    Thanks!!

    • Rowewillj

      When I built the table there’s VERY little away when you weigh one side, if your at all nervous about this you can add 2-4″ (or more) on the base legs and just make it wider, that’s where your support is coming from anyways! Just remember that if doing this you’ll have it bothering feet that much more!

  • Chelsea

    Hi There! My husband and I are currently building this table… I was just curious to see if you took the sander to distress the top of the table, too? It’s a bit hard to tell in the pictures. Thanks!!

    • Amber Schreiner

      I was wondering about this too!

  • Caitlin Chapman

    We are wanting to make this table and benches into a 10 foot table. Does anyone have plans and a list of materials that they’ve used to build a table that big?

  • Andy Hill

    Ready to start this project!! Are the diagonal pieces on the legs more for aesthetics (can they be removed) or are they really adding structural support? Beautiful work by the way!

  • Andy Hill

    Ready to start this project!! Are the diagonal pieces on the legs more for aesthetics (can they be removed) or are they really adding structural support? Beautiful work by the way!

  • BFain

    We love our table!!! Thanks Shanty2Chic for the idea and plans…Buffet is up next!!!

    • landyten

      Looks amazing! Can you share what stain you used? Did you use a conditioner before hand?
      Thanks!

      • BFain

        Thanks! I used Minwax Wood Finish English Chestnut 233 and several coats of Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin. I did not use a conditioner. We were very happy with the way it turned out!

  • Merika Stout

    I’m working in a smaller space, but I love this table. Can you tell me the dimensions of this guy so that I can work with my hubby to shorten it to our needs?

  • Karina Westrate

    Love the table–wondering to get the top even and smooth did you send the top through a plainer? Or how did you achieve that smooth top surface?

  • Joseph S Dailey

    Can anyone give advice, pictures or better explanation on how to attach table top to legs?

  • Luke Tos

    Hello, I have a question about the quality of wood you suggest using. Where I live in CA, there isn’t very great quality wood, and most places it ends up warping. Where did you get yours? Do you think it is imperative to get wood that will not warp? We have a Lowe’s but the quality is usually pretty poor. The other option is to order online but then we are probably looking in the area of $1,000 to do that, so I am told. Your thoughts would be welcome.

  • A. Burke

    I really want to build this table with my husband, but we need a 10 person table and I don’t know what size to do, or if these plans can be made to work for a table that size? Can anyone help me?
    Thanks so much!

  • Nicole Zeelenberg Quinones

    Might be a stupid question, but what did you use for the feet at the bottom for the table? We are about to assemble the legs.BTW love this table and all of you projects!

    • Not stupid! At the end of the 1×6 boards, you will see 3.5×3.5 pieces to cut from them to make the foot pads. If you have scrap 1×4 you could use that too. Hope this helps 🙂

  • Jared Aucoin

    Can anyone help me with this table design? I’m using the Kreg HD screws and the 4×4’s still wobble. Anyone else have that problem?

    • It sounds like you might need to drill more shallow holes….

      • Jared Aucoin

        How do I drill more shallow holes? What should the length of the bit for the HD Jig be? First time I did 5 1/2″ and this time I did a 3 1/2″. (it barely went into the 4×4 this last time) Do I need to connect the HD jig to my master kreg jig? First DIY project and I seem to be retarded.

  • Ryan

    Just finished and it turned out great. Has anyone made this without the middle 2×4 in the stack of 3 on top of legs? My final height came to ~31″, but a normal dining table is supposed to be more like 29.5″. Was thinking I might try pulling that piece out.

    • Happy to hear! The dining table that I modeled this after is set at 31″ tall so that was the reason for this height.

    • Michael Fallon

      I think I actually removed the top 2×4. Built a year ago, still love it.

    • Sam Durrett

      We pulled out the middle 2x4s of the stack after putting the table together. We are much happier with the height. I’m tall and 31″ table felt strange.

  • Jenna Green Maddox

    How is that possible when it shows in the plans to cut the legs at 35 1/2″ tall?

    • The runner is 35 1/5″ long that goes between the legs. There is one cut at 35 1/2″ and the legs are 21 3/4.

  • Jenna Green Maddox

    Followed the plans exactly and rechecked our measurements 3 times. Table turned out so tall that we’re going to have to get barstools. Pretty disappointed. Is 35 1/2″ correct for the leg height measurement??

    • You must have done something different. My table measures 31″ tall and it is by the plans, exactly. Someone in the comments below built theirs and it measured 33″ and they found their error.

    • Michael Fallon

      I lowered mine as well. I took off the top boards on the two legs to bring it down a couple inches. Still stable after a year.

  • Stephanie Y

    Shanty2Chic, So I know a few people have asked this question already, but I have yet to find an answer. Are there any substitions for the Kreg HD Jig? Furthermore, can you use the Kreg HD screws with the Kreg 4 or 5 jigs?
    Also, if anyone had any success with alternative methods I’d love to hear them.

    Thanks in advance.
    -Steph 😉

    • Hey,
      I think I’ve answered this in the comments but you really need to get the HD…. It’s only $35 and you will use it lots! Hope this helps!

  • gpmic

    So I finally got around to building our table…

  • Trevin

    I have bought the 1-1/4″ pocket screws and 2-1/2″ pocket screws, and then it says I need 18 Kreg HD screws, but does not specify a length? Is there something I’m missing about these “Kreg HD” screws?

    • The HD screws are 2 1/2″ long. They are thicker than the regular Kreg screws.

  • Hazel

    Can you use something other than the kreg HD screws I cannot find them in stores

    • Hi Hazel, I wouldn’t recommend that. Amazon does sell them!

  • Karly Malone

    Hi Shanty2Shic-

    Love the table…we are going to make it for sure once our kitchen remodel is complete…thanks for the plans. We are going for a similar look in terms of flooring and I wondered if you’d be willing to share the flooring that you used in the dining room (first picture)?? Thanks!

    -Karly

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  • Blake

    What do you say were the alterations to make the table 6′? Also, did you sand just the edges or surfaces as well?

  • Tarcia

    I would like to make this table approximately 6 feet long instead of 8 can I just modify the top and keep the same measurements for the base?

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  • dana

    Can someone email the directions for the table please? The link seems to be dead now. danadavenport@gmail.com

    • The link isn’t dead. It’s the big image that says click to print.

      • dana

        When I click that it opens a new page with a black x. When I click the link for the bench that works just fine. Thank you for your help

      • Blake

        I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff to build it

  • DomD

    Thanks for the plans! I’m hoping to start this project this weekend. If I’m looking to shorten the length by 8 to 12 inches, can I simply adjust the plank top, side trim and stretcher length accordingly and leave the rest of the plans as is?

  • Eric & Candice

    Hubby finished the Restoration Hardware Inspired table today. It is beautiful. However, it is measuring rather tall at 33 inches. We are now trying to figure out what to do about chairs as the standard 18-19 inches chairs may be a bit low. Is anyone else’s measuring tall? Regardless, it is a beautiful and I am so glad we didn’t spend $2K on this look/design. Thank you Shanty 2 Chic!

    • Mine measures 31″ so you may have altered the plans a bit.

      • Eric & Candice

        We found our error… well, I think it will still look pretty cool with counter top 24 inch chairs. We are building the bench this weekend… making it a wee bit taller. (Thanks for replying)

  • Cynthia

    We are looking to make this counter height. Aside from making the 4×4’s 6 inches taller and adjusting the 2×4 length, are there any other recommendations?

  • Dawn Allen

    Robert, What stain / brand did you use? Love your table.

  • David Simpson

    On your parts list you call for 16 Kreg hd screws for the 4×4’s. But I don’t see any size or length requirements.

  • This may be a stupid question, but what is the best way to make the top detachable so we can fit it through our narrow doorway when we move eventually? Can I just screw it on without glue and unscrew it and screw it back later without ruining the screw holes? Or should I use bolts instead, and, if so, how would you recommend substituting bolts? Thanks so much for any advice you have on this!

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  • Arianne

    We’re in the middle of building this table, and one of the major problems we’re having is with small spaces between the boards – horizontally where the boards aren’t perfectly square, or vertically where the saw cut just a tiny bit too short. Did this happen to you at all? How do you keep it from happening? How do you handle it if it does?

    • Ethan Olson

      Arianne, I ran into the same issue when I was building mine. Wood boards are never perfectly square, so there’s bound to be some imperfections along the way. I tried rearranging the order of the boards so that one warped board would just “hug” another board that was warped similarly. Eventually, if you just get the boards that are warped the worst to the ends, then you can more easily wrap the trim boards around the curves since you have a little more play in those boards from them being flipped vertically.

      As far as boards being cut too short, I would just try to stack the boards, clamp them, and cut them all at the same time so they’re the same length.

  • Ethan Olson

    These plans worked great! Here’s my implementation of the table. The only thing I changed was using premium 1×6 pine boards for the top so that there were fewer knots (ended up costing about $70 extra in lumber). Also, I used premium 1×4 boards for the trim around the top so that it’d match (they don’t carry premium boards in a 2×4 size at Lowe’s or Home Depot). Also, I had a tough time finding untreated 4×4 posts because my local Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t keep them in stock. Luckily, an 84 Lumber outside of town had a few in stock.

  • Liz

    I love this table and want make sure it will fit in our dining room. What do the dimensions of the table end up being? And what is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the table top? Thanks!

  • Colby

    Found your site and my wife fell in love with this table. Decided to go ahead and make it. Extremely happy with the way it turned out. Thanks so much for the easy to follow plans!

    • Tina

      Do you remember what stain you used? Love the color!

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  • Whitney Maness

    My husband and I will be building our table in about a month or so…I was wondering (and sorry if it’s mentioned above or in other comments), but what kind of wood filler do you use? Every one I saw on homedepot.com had reviews that said they would NOT take stain…even if the packaging stated it was “stainable” Thanks!

    • Hi Whitney,
      I use either 3M or Elmer’s stainable but it doesn’t take the stain the same way. The places you will need to fill in this table are not noticeable at all so those should be fine. Hope this helps!

  • Renata Shaw-Marshall

    anyone ever made a smaller table like 72″x42″ ?? help and if i would like to move the bottom beam to the middle how would i go about doing that ??

  • Jose Durangomez

    Thank you for the awesome plans! My first time making something like this and your breakdown really made it possible. Thank you

    • Michael Wulf

      Jose. Great job. Nice smooth lines and looks solid. Absolutely love your stain job! Artists’ work.

      • Jose Durangomez

        Thanks brother, I actually torched it. I wanted to really darken the sides and transition to the natural color in the center.

  • Alex Castaneda

    Hi, my husband and father are building me this design for Mother’s Day but seem to have come to a small problem. They are screwing the top boards for the top of the table together and one board has started to split at the end. I can actually see through the split. They don’t think it’s a huge issue but I wanted to see if there was anything we could do to it to make sure our table doesn’t break in half one day lol. I would hate for them to go through all the trouble and then the table breaks in half.
    Thanks for your help!

  • Valerie

    Going to start this table project soon! 🙂
    Is it possible to make the table 8 feet long? By doing so, would there be any issues with the legs? Thanks!

  • How is step 10 done?? I’m confused on how to use the kreg jig on the legs to attach them to the table top??

    • Joseph S Dailey

      I am having the same problem. Did you figure it out?

      • You don’t have to use the pocket holes. I just drove wood screws from the bottom of the legs into the table top.

        • Julie Heaton

          How long of screws did you use? Will this table be able to be moved and assembled again without decreasing its sturdiness when it comes to assembling the top to the legs? I would imagine screwing it back in the same hole after reassemble would cause it to not be a tight/sturdy.

  • David Vige

    If I am planning to use 2×12’s instead of 1×6’s for the table top, do you think I could utilize the Kreg HD for all pocket holes to avoid buying another Kreg jig?

    • Jeremy

      I believe the HD is for anything 2″ and up (which is really 1 1/2″).

      I would try connecting a couple pieces of scrap first to see.

  • Keith Webster

    Just wanted to say thank you for shearing the plans for the table I love it here a pic of my table just have one layer of poly so far waiting to dry to put 2 more layers on

    • Jeremy

      nice change up with the center beam. looks great

    • Nicole

      Can you please share how you stained this table? I love the dark base.

      • Keith Webster

        Thank you Nicole. The legs are painted black and destressed on the edges the top is stain with dark walnut and 3 coats of wipe on polyurethane

  • Jeremy

    Did you poly the whole table? Or just the table top? Also, did you sand in between layers? Lastly, did you sand after the final layer?

    Thanks!!

    This is the last step I have to finish and I’m all done!

  • Keith Webster

    just went today and bought all the wood to make the table. Was wondering if anyone had a cut list for the legs of the table thank you

    • Jeremy

      they’re on the PDF file attached to this site

  • joe barry

    How long should this project take to do?

    • Jeremy

      depends on how much time you have lol. It took me a couple months just doing a little bit here are there. You can easily do it in a weekend if you don’t have any interruptions

  • Cellar_Muse

    Finally completed & delivered. The customer and I are really happy with the final result. Put 4 coats of Cabot “midnight” stain/sealer & 3 coats of rustoleum matte polyurethane.

    Thank you for Sharing this Design !

    • It’s beautiful and I LOVE the finish! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  • Chanel Ward

    What are the final dimensions of this finished table? Height, length, and width?

  • Nicole Dyan Rapp

    Could a Kreg Mini work for the 1×6’s?

    • Jeremy

      I think the mini would work for the 1x6s. Much cheaper than the full jig too.

  • Starting this project next week! I would love to know an alternative to using the Kig HD, I just bought the smaller one to help keep down on cost but I read a comment that the smaller one wouldnt work on the 4×4. Any advice would be helpful!! Thanks 🙂

  • Jeremy

    can I use the Kreg mini for the 4x4s ? I have had to purchase many tools for this project anyways so if I can save a few $$ I would rather get the cheaper one.

    This is the one I am referring to:

    http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1423710632&sr=8-5&keywords=kreg+jig

    Thanks!

    • Hey Jeremy,
      Unfortunately you need the HD for the 4×4’s…

      • Jeremy

        Ok thanks. One more question: What if I take the slide out of my K4 ? Can I just clamp that to the 4×4 and do it that way?
        Thanks again.

        • We haven’t tried that. I would try it on some scrap pieces first! Worth a shot 🙂

        • Jeremy how did that turn out for you? Im in the same predicament! Those things are pricey!

          • Jeremy

            Well the short answer: it’s easier to buy the other jig.

            Long answer: I messed around with a scrap 4×4 block for about 30 minutes and was able to get the k4 jig block in a spot where the screw came through to an ok spot, but not to the center of the joint, which is what kreg suggests is the best placement. However, the hole wasn’t deep enough because the jig has to be so high on the wood. So after drilling the hole, I had to take the jig off and manually drill even further until I got deep enough to where I thought was good. It’s all trial and error and there’s no real exact way to know how deep is good enough. But the drill bit is surprisingly more fragile than I thought and I broke on me when I was doing manual drilling – just snapped right in half.

            So after about a full hour of messing around with it and breaking my boy, I had enough and ordered the other jig. I did some test holes with the new jig and it gets the hole close to the center of the joint, but not 100% there. It looked close to what I was able to get with my trial and error method. The good thing about the jig is that it came with HD screws and a bigger drill bit to accommodate them.

            If you want to try with the k4 jig, go ahead. But I would recommend getting the other jig as well. That way you’ll be able to use the HD screws (the k4 jig hole isn’t big enough for the HD screw drill bit). And you’ll save a lot of time without having to trial and error it. And you won’t curse nearly as much lol. Good luck!

  • Matt Kopp

    I’ve been checking with Home Depot and Lowes and I have not been able to find 4x4x8′ Pine or whitewood posts. I’ve only been able to find Cedar, Fir or Pressure Treated. Would you recommend using cedar or fir for this or is there somewhere else I should look? I’m going to go to a local lumber store and check there but I have not been able to yet.

    • Jeremy

      I looked in my whole area and finally found a lowe’s that had it. It was the only lowe’s in the area that even carried it. You may have to call all the stores in your area or go to an actual lumber yard.

    • Emilee Anderson

      I have called every lumber/home improvement store within 50 miles of me and no one has access to untreated 4×4 pine!

    • Josh Rothman

      Home Depot has untreated Douglas Fir 4×4, which is superior to the red pine 4×4 commonly found pressure-treated, as it is much less likely to twist when drying. Fir is second only to yellow pine in strength among easily-available softwoods, and is a whole lot lighter and easier to work with. I’ve found the fir 4x4s to be dry and straight every time I’ve bought them, and surprisingly inexpensive too. Cedar is nice to work with and smells good, but it’s too soft for furniture unless you’re really skilled at joinery. Oh, yeah, one other thing: watch out for splinters when working with fir.

  • Mike Lopez

    Anyone know how to attach the top to the legs? I’m actually making the fancy x table but that one didn’t specify how to attach the top the the legs either

    • Cellar_Muse

      The top attaches to the legs via pocket screws.

  • Victor E

    gonna have to give this a try this winter. also, i saw a matching wine rack in one of the pics…where are the plans for that?

  • Anne Curwen

    I love this table and have been eyeing it up for some time on your site! Beautiful. I am curious to know how chairs fit in? Does it comfortably fit 2 chairs in the middle between the legs or is it tight?

    • Thanks! Two should fit comfortably. I have a bench in each side with chairs on the end. Bench plans are linked at the top of the post!

  • john grosse

    When i completed building the table, the table top has some flex to it in the corners when you put some weight on it which pushes the other corners up/down. how did you/can you remove the flex? i used a nail gun for practically everything.

    • Hi John,
      I don’t have that issue with mind. I used pocket holes and glue. Maybe this is what is causing it? Did you use glue?

  • charissa

    Love this table, had my husband build it. Here’s the problem with it though. Unless you are planning on building the benches to go with it, it’s an impractical table. With a regular chair, it is difficult to get in and out because the X-cross beams block free movement of your legs. Also, it is difficult to space regular chairs under the X-cross beams as is shown in one of the pictures below. Wish I had known this before and that someone had mentioned this issue. Do not want to have a “picnic table” sitting in our dining room, so sadly, I think this table will end up outside after my husband builds the benches. Just wanted to give an honest heads-up to anyone considering this build.

  • Cory

    Hi there! My husband & I just built this but have not yet attached the top to the legs. I can’t seem to find in the directions how to drill the pocket holes when attaching the top– it’s very vague. Any help would be great appreciated!

    • Gale

      I skipped the Kreg PH and simply drilled two holes from each end top piece 6 in total and used Gold 2 Inch screws. Worked like a charm

  • Matt Hayward

    Hello, Quick question… the HD Pocket Holes in the vertical 4×4 legs, do you leave them open since Kreg doesn’t make plugs that big or do you have a tip for hiding them? Thanks

    • They will be pretty well hidden with the angle pieces but I also filled them with wood filler!

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  • Lauren Norris

    We just finished our table and are in love with it! Thank you for providing the plans 🙂

    • Anne Curwen

      beautiful! nice job

    • Blake

      I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff

  • Michael Fallon

    Here are my pics. Went 8′. Noticing my top planks are pulling away from the 2×4 frame. Must not have been completely dry. Will likely need to fill in a bit with wood filler once it settles. Luckily my finish is already a bit “distressed” (not on purpose). Very happy with the results though.

    • Guest

      pics.

  • Kara

    How big is the final product of this table? I am looking for a table that is 3×6 and am hoping that this is the approximate size of this table?

    • Robert Zamaro

      The exact size of this table is W: 3′ 5 1/2″ x L: 7′ 3″ H: 2′ 7 1/4″. This is according to the plans. Hope this helped. 🙂

  • Brandi Pifer

    Would this table be okay painted?

    • Yes 🙂 just make sure to put a poly on it!

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Could I use untreated Douglas Fir for the 4x4s? It’s the only untreated 4x4s I can find at HD…

    • Jeremy

      the stain may not take the same. for some reason untreated pine 4x4s are really hard to find! I had to call around for a while before I found some and they weren’t in the best shape — looked decent after a good sanding with 60 grit sandpaper though

  • Bethany Bonell

    What are the dimensions of the finished table?

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  • Robert Zamaro

    I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    • Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours 🙂

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      • Robert Zamaro

        Hey Jarmar 🙂 Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know 🙂 Thank you Jarmar.

        • Towanda

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

        • Towanda

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

        • Adam Tate

          What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?

          • Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.

          • Adam Tate

            maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear

          • Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?

          • Adam Tate

            Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!

          • So sorry! I’ll make a quick edit. Thank you!!

        • Jeremy

          Robert,

          I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.

          I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?

          2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?

          Thanks so much!

          • Robert Zamaro

            Jeremy,

            Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!

          • Jeremy

            Awesome, thanks so much; I really appreciate it!

          • Jeremy

            I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.

            Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.

            How long was your bench?

            Thanks,
            Jeremy

        • Jeremy

          Hey Robert,

          I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
          To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?

          Thanks,
          Jeremy

    • Anne Curwen

      beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!

    • Jose Durangomez

      Hello Robert,
      Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
      Thank you for posting

    • Shawn

      What type poly did you use?

      • Robert Zamaro

        Shawn, I just used minwax semi gloss poly and used about 8 layers. Sanding inbetween each layer.

    • Trisha Elisabeth

      What stain did you use for this table Robert? It’s beautiful!

  • JK John Hitman

    So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    • Robert Zamaro

      I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      • Great tip, Robert!!!

      • Emilee Anderson

        Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?

    • No, a 12″ is needed for that.

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Thanks!

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?

        • Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them 🙂

    • Ryan

      Can use a 10″ if you flip the 4×4 to finish the cut.

      • Yes, you can flip to cut the 4×4 with a 10″ blade.

  • Michael Fallon

    I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?

      • Michael Fallon

        Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

  • Shannon

    What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?

    • We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps 🙂

  • Justin

    Hello,

    What were the foot pads dimensions?

    Thanks!

    • Hey Justin,
      The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.

      • Justin

        Thanks, and about how thick??

        • 1x 🙂 just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″

  • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

    Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    • Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games 😉

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        amazing!

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?

      • Kristin

        Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!

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  • Richelle K

    I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

    • Jeremy

      I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol

  • Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?

    • Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

  • Vanessa Williams

    I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks

    • Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work 🙂

      • Vanessa Williams

        Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks

        • Vanessa Williams

          Working on benches now!

          • Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  • Michael Fallon

    Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.

    • Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!

  • Lina Beers

    are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?

    • Hi Lina,
      There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it 🙂

  • John Hack

    So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?

    • Hi John!
      Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?

      • John Hack

        OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.

        • Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it 🙂

          • John Hack

            Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
            PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.

          • Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! 🙂 thanks so much for sharing!

          • Michael Fallon

            Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?

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  • Steve

    So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.

    Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?

    • Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!

      • Steve

        Thanks I’ll try it!

  • Debbra Tackett

    but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!

    • thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post 🙂

  • rjcross

    I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
    I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
    Do you have any pros and cons to either?
    And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
    The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”

    • Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…

  • KPresley

    Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!

  • digital_andrew

    Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks

    • Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!

  • Lane Cook

    Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.

  • daphness84

    What are the finished dimensions of this table?

  • Brooke

    Hi, can you tells what kind of floors are in your house? I love them!

    • Thank you Brooke! I shared a link to the flooring at the end of this post 🙂

  • J Sucherman

    How do you clamp down the pocket hole joints in the MIDDLE of the table? The clamps don’t reach! Please help thanks

    • Hey josh! I work from one end to the other so I’m adding 1 board at a time and clamping that board… Make sense? Then it only has to reach the width of 1 board…

      • joshmade

        Yes, thanks so much, u gals are great

  • Tyi Duncan-Whitcomb

    What are the finished dimnesions?

  • RT

    Hi Guys, I absolutely love what you guys are doing here! I am having trouble finding untreated pine or whitewood 4x4x8 posts in my area. Did you find them at your local home depot? Thanks and cannot wait to get started on this project!

    • Keep searching. They are out there. Lowes and Home Depot stopped selling untreated 4X4’s for some unknown reason. Check your local lumber yards

    • We do find them at Home Depot but try a local lumber yard too!

  • Sharde T

    Will the Kreg Jig K4 work for this project?

    • Yes!!

      • Sharde T

        Great! What about for making the pocket holes in the 4x4s? This is the first time I’m using my Kreg Jig K4, but I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and the measurements don’t look like they aren’t made for a 4×4. Thanks in advance!

      • Chris W

        I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and was wondering I can use the regular Kreg jig or if there is a different way to join the 4×4’s.

      • Natalie Martin

        Could you explain how to use the K4 on the 4x4s? I can’t find anything on the kreg site that helps! Thanks!!

        • Hi Natalie,
          The 4×4’s need the Kreg HD… The HD drills pocket holes in 2×4 and 4×4

          • Is there a way to do this project without the Kreg HD??

  • jrob2287

    I can’t for the life of me figure out how you’ve added the angled bracing. Are the any better photos of this spot?

    • Hey! I used 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue but for those without a brad nailer, counter sinking screws is the best way!

      • jrob2287

        Thanks!

        • Guest

          Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start.

      • Doug Beach

        Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start

        • I used my brad nailer and wood glue. We suggested wood screws for those that don’t own nailers but 1/4″ brad nails will work and may be easier. If you are going to use wood acres, just pre drill at an angle into the leg and foot where the joints touch. Hope this helps!

  • pastorkevinwright

    Hey ladies. Just curious, did you use poly on the entire table or just the top?

    • Hey there! I just poly the table top. It’s probably best to poly the entire thing with at least one coat 🙂 your table looks awesome!!!

  • Casey H

    I have a delimma…in step 10 where you drill the keg jog holes to attach the table top…I’m not quite sure how to do that since the layers are already assembled. I may be reading it wrong, and there weren’t any pics of that step:/. Any guidance would be great. Thanks so much for the wonderful plans!

    • Hi Casey! You can use your Kreg Jig as the plans show (just take the block out of the Kreg Jig and clamp it) or just drill 2″ wood screws from under the the longest layer into the table top (that’s what I did so I didn’t have to bring as many tools in the house) 😉 hope this helps!

      • Casey H

        Thanks for clearing that up. We’re so excited about this table:)

        • Awesome!!! Happy to help:) share pictures with us once you are done, please 🙂

  • Starsky

    The table looks great! Thanks for the plans. The only question I had
    is how did you securely attach the 45˚ leg supports to the actual leg
    for the table? I’ve been trying to clamp the pieces to be able
    to counter screw them together but the pieces keep slipping. Any advice
    on how to keep the two pieces together?

    • That’s awesome to hear! I actually just used wood glue and nailed them with my Airstrike. It’s not as secure but once the glue dries it’s fine!

  • Adam Roman

    The table came out great! Curious did you use pocket holes to attach the trim?

  • Erin @ How to Nest for Less

    Simply gorgeous!!

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  • Lindsay Rice

    Would the legs support this if we made the top 6’x6′? you are so talented!!

    • Thank you Lindsay! They should work fine! I would adjust the width though to accommodate the added width of the table top 🙂

  • Jennifer Alison

    Can you make this a 6 foot table? Would anything besides the top need modification??

    • Just adjust the table top and stretcher 🙂

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  • Love the table and the cart and………. Yep going to give one of these projects a try !

  • Lynn Cutler

    I love how intricate these legs look, even though the build doesn’t look too complicated. I am planning to build a dining table this spring and have been admiring all your plans for a while now. Since we have 8 people in our family, and often have company, I’d like to seat about 10 at our table. Which do you think would be the best plan to make a really big table? Which leg formation is most comfortable for those sitting on the ends?

    • Hi Lynn! You could have 10 here with seats
      At the ends. I have a parsons chair at each end and it’s great 🙂

  • astrollthrulife

    Your table is fabulous. I love, love, love it. Wow, I am impressed.

  • ini99001

    Ashley, what did you use after you stained the table for water spills?

    • ini99001

      Thanks for the info, I don’t know if I missed it the first time around looking at your tutorial.
      Lovely table btw!

      • Just added it! Sorry for the confusion:) thank you!

    • So sorry! I forgot to add that to the post 🙂

  • Lori

    Gorgeous piece. You sure do have a lot of tables… are those all in your own house?

    • Thank you Lori! We both have one outside and inside and we give sell our old ones when it’s time to update 🙂

  • Cassie Thompson

    Love it! So you guys are making all your own plans now? I am always amazed to see how everything comes together – I could never do the math involved!