Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE to print them!

restoration-dining-table-plansA huge shout-out to Jay at Jays Custom Creations for creating printable plans for us to share with you!

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes.

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces.

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Ryobi Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill!

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot

foot-pads

legs-assembledNow, the legs

add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table.  Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush.

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it :)

Free-Dining-Table-Plans

DIY-Dining-Table

How-to-build-a-dining-table

 

Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by :) – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years :)  You can click the images for the tutorials!

diy-round-table

DIY-Dining-Table

DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired

diy-wooden-dining-table

table7

 

 

 

  • David Vige

    If I am planning to use 2×12’s instead of 1×6’s for the table top, do you think I could utilize the Kreg HD for all pocket holes to avoid buying another Kreg jig?

    • Jeremy

      I believe the HD is for anything 2″ and up (which is really 1 1/2″).

      I would try connecting a couple pieces of scrap first to see.

  • Keith Webster

    Just wanted to say thank you for shearing the plans for the table I love it here a pic of my table just have one layer of poly so far waiting to dry to put 2 more layers on

    • Jeremy

      nice change up with the center beam. looks great

  • Jeremy

    Did you poly the whole table? Or just the table top? Also, did you sand in between layers? Lastly, did you sand after the final layer?

    Thanks!!

    This is the last step I have to finish and I’m all done!

  • Keith Webster

    just went today and bought all the wood to make the table. Was wondering if anyone had a cut list for the legs of the table thank you

    • Jeremy

      they’re on the PDF file attached to this site

  • joe barry

    How long should this project take to do?

    • Jeremy

      depends on how much time you have lol. It took me a couple months just doing a little bit here are there. You can easily do it in a weekend if you don’t have any interruptions

  • Cellar_Muse

    Finally completed & delivered. The customer and I are really happy with the final result. Put 4 coats of Cabot “midnight” stain/sealer & 3 coats of rustoleum matte polyurethane.

    Thank you for Sharing this Design !

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      It’s beautiful and I LOVE the finish! Thank you for sharing :)

  • Chanel Ward

    What are the final dimensions of this finished table? Height, length, and width?

  • Nicole Dyan Rapp

    Could a Kreg Mini work for the 1×6’s?

    • Jeremy

      I think the mini would work for the 1x6s. Much cheaper than the full jig too.

  • http://batman-news.com Chelsie

    Starting this project next week! I would love to know an alternative to using the Kig HD, I just bought the smaller one to help keep down on cost but I read a comment that the smaller one wouldnt work on the 4×4. Any advice would be helpful!! Thanks :)

  • Jeremy

    can I use the Kreg mini for the 4x4s ? I have had to purchase many tools for this project anyways so if I can save a few $$ I would rather get the cheaper one.

    This is the one I am referring to:

    http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1423710632&sr=8-5&keywords=kreg+jig

    Thanks!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Jeremy,
      Unfortunately you need the HD for the 4×4’s…

      • Jeremy

        Ok thanks. One more question: What if I take the slide out of my K4 ? Can I just clamp that to the 4×4 and do it that way?
        Thanks again.

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          We haven’t tried that. I would try it on some scrap pieces first! Worth a shot :)

        • http://batman-news.com Chelsie

          Jeremy how did that turn out for you? Im in the same predicament! Those things are pricey!

          • Jeremy

            Well the short answer: it’s easier to buy the other jig.

            Long answer: I messed around with a scrap 4×4 block for about 30 minutes and was able to get the k4 jig block in a spot where the screw came through to an ok spot, but not to the center of the joint, which is what kreg suggests is the best placement. However, the hole wasn’t deep enough because the jig has to be so high on the wood. So after drilling the hole, I had to take the jig off and manually drill even further until I got deep enough to where I thought was good. It’s all trial and error and there’s no real exact way to know how deep is good enough. But the drill bit is surprisingly more fragile than I thought and I broke on me when I was doing manual drilling – just snapped right in half.

            So after about a full hour of messing around with it and breaking my boy, I had enough and ordered the other jig. I did some test holes with the new jig and it gets the hole close to the center of the joint, but not 100% there. It looked close to what I was able to get with my trial and error method. The good thing about the jig is that it came with HD screws and a bigger drill bit to accommodate them.

            If you want to try with the k4 jig, go ahead. But I would recommend getting the other jig as well. That way you’ll be able to use the HD screws (the k4 jig hole isn’t big enough for the HD screw drill bit). And you’ll save a lot of time without having to trial and error it. And you won’t curse nearly as much lol. Good luck!

  • Matt Kopp

    I’ve been checking with Home Depot and Lowes and I have not been able to find 4x4x8′ Pine or whitewood posts. I’ve only been able to find Cedar, Fir or Pressure Treated. Would you recommend using cedar or fir for this or is there somewhere else I should look? I’m going to go to a local lumber store and check there but I have not been able to yet.

    • Jeremy

      I looked in my whole area and finally found a lowe’s that had it. It was the only lowe’s in the area that even carried it. You may have to call all the stores in your area or go to an actual lumber yard.

    • Emilee Anderson

      I have called every lumber/home improvement store within 50 miles of me and no one has access to untreated 4×4 pine!

  • Mike Lopez

    Anyone know how to attach the top to the legs? I’m actually making the fancy x table but that one didn’t specify how to attach the top the the legs either

    • Cellar_Muse

      The top attaches to the legs via pocket screws.

  • Victor E

    gonna have to give this a try this winter. also, i saw a matching wine rack in one of the pics…where are the plans for that?

  • Anne Curwen

    I love this table and have been eyeing it up for some time on your site! Beautiful. I am curious to know how chairs fit in? Does it comfortably fit 2 chairs in the middle between the legs or is it tight?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thanks! Two should fit comfortably. I have a bench in each side with chairs on the end. Bench plans are linked at the top of the post!

  • john grosse

    When i completed building the table, the table top has some flex to it in the corners when you put some weight on it which pushes the other corners up/down. how did you/can you remove the flex? i used a nail gun for practically everything.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi John,
      I don’t have that issue with mind. I used pocket holes and glue. Maybe this is what is causing it? Did you use glue?

  • charissa

    Love this table, had my husband build it. Here’s the problem with it though. Unless you are planning on building the benches to go with it, it’s an impractical table. With a regular chair, it is difficult to get in and out because the X-cross beams block free movement of your legs. Also, it is difficult to space regular chairs under the X-cross beams as is shown in one of the pictures below. Wish I had known this before and that someone had mentioned this issue. Do not want to have a “picnic table” sitting in our dining room, so sadly, I think this table will end up outside after my husband builds the benches. Just wanted to give an honest heads-up to anyone considering this build.

  • Cory

    Hi there! My husband & I just built this but have not yet attached the top to the legs. I can’t seem to find in the directions how to drill the pocket holes when attaching the top– it’s very vague. Any help would be great appreciated!

    • Gale

      I skipped the Kreg PH and simply drilled two holes from each end top piece 6 in total and used Gold 2 Inch screws. Worked like a charm

  • Matt Hayward

    Hello, Quick question… the HD Pocket Holes in the vertical 4×4 legs, do you leave them open since Kreg doesn’t make plugs that big or do you have a tip for hiding them? Thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      They will be pretty well hidden with the angle pieces but I also filled them with wood filler!

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  • Lauren Norris

    We just finished our table and are in love with it! Thank you for providing the plans :)

    • Anne Curwen

      beautiful! nice job

  • Michael Fallon

    Here are my pics. Went 8′. Noticing my top planks are pulling away from the 2×4 frame. Must not have been completely dry. Will likely need to fill in a bit with wood filler once it settles. Luckily my finish is already a bit “distressed” (not on purpose). Very happy with the results though.

    • Guest

      pics.

  • Kara

    How big is the final product of this table? I am looking for a table that is 3×6 and am hoping that this is the approximate size of this table?

    • Robert Zamaro

      The exact size of this table is W: 3′ 5 1/2″ x L: 7′ 3″ H: 2′ 7 1/4″. This is according to the plans. Hope this helped. :)

  • Brandi Pifer

    Would this table be okay painted?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes :) just make sure to put a poly on it!

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Could I use untreated Douglas Fir for the 4x4s? It’s the only untreated 4x4s I can find at HD…

    • Jeremy

      the stain may not take the same. for some reason untreated pine 4x4s are really hard to find! I had to call around for a while before I found some and they weren’t in the best shape — looked decent after a good sanding with 60 grit sandpaper though

  • Bethany Bonell

    What are the dimensions of the finished table?

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  • Robert Zamaro

    I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours :)

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      • Robert Zamaro

        Hey Jarmar :) Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know :) Thank you Jarmar.

        • Towanda

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

        • Towanda

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?

          Beautiful

        • Adam Tate

          What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.

          • Adam Tate

            maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?

          • Adam Tate

            Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            So sorry! I’ll make a quick edit. Thank you!!

        • Jeremy

          Robert,

          I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.

          I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?

          2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?

          Thanks so much!

          • Robert Zamaro

            Jeremy,

            Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!

          • Jeremy

            Awesome, thanks so much; I really appreciate it!

          • Jeremy

            I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.

            Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.

            How long was your bench?

            Thanks,
            Jeremy

        • Jeremy

          Hey Robert,

          I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
          To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?

          Thanks,
          Jeremy

    • Anne Curwen

      beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!

    • Jose Durangomez

      Hello Robert,
      Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
      Thank you for posting

  • JK John Hitman

    So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    • Robert Zamaro

      I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

        Great tip, Robert!!!

      • Emilee Anderson

        Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      No, a 12″ is needed for that.

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Thanks!

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them :)

  • Michael Fallon

    I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?

      • Michael Fallon

        Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

  • Shannon

    What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps :)

  • Justin

    Hello,

    What were the foot pads dimensions?

    Thanks!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Justin,
      The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.

      • Justin

        Thanks, and about how thick??

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          1x :) just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″

  • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

    Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games ;)

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        amazing!

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Thank you Glynnis ;)

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Just the wood :)

      • Kristin

        Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!

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  • Richelle K

    I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

    • Jeremy

      I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol

  • http://www.thecamelshump.org/ Justin Camblin

    Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

  • Vanessa Williams

    I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work :)

      • Vanessa Williams

        Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks

        • Vanessa Williams

          Working on benches now!

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing :)

  • Michael Fallon

    Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!

  • Lina Beers

    are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Lina,
      There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it :)

  • John Hack

    So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi John!
      Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?

      • John Hack

        OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it :)

          • John Hack

            Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
            PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! :) thanks so much for sharing!

          • Michael Fallon

            Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?

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  • Steve

    So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.

    Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!

      • Steve

        Thanks I’ll try it!

  • Debbra Tackett

    but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post :)

  • rjcross

    I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
    I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
    Do you have any pros and cons to either?
    And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
    The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…

  • KPresley

    Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!

  • digital_andrew

    Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!

  • Lane Cook

    Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      You can do that if you would like :)

  • daphness84

    What are the finished dimensions of this table?

  • Brooke

    Hi, can you tells what kind of floors are in your house? I love them!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Brooke! I shared a link to the flooring at the end of this post :)

  • J Sucherman

    How do you clamp down the pocket hole joints in the MIDDLE of the table? The clamps don’t reach! Please help thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey josh! I work from one end to the other so I’m adding 1 board at a time and clamping that board… Make sense? Then it only has to reach the width of 1 board…

      • joshmade

        Yes, thanks so much, u gals are great

  • Tyi Duncan-Whitcomb

    What are the finished dimnesions?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      7 ft x 41.5″

  • RT

    Hi Guys, I absolutely love what you guys are doing here! I am having trouble finding untreated pine or whitewood 4x4x8 posts in my area. Did you find them at your local home depot? Thanks and cannot wait to get started on this project!

    • http://batman-news.com nate

      Keep searching. They are out there. Lowes and Home Depot stopped selling untreated 4X4’s for some unknown reason. Check your local lumber yards

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      We do find them at Home Depot but try a local lumber yard too!

  • Sharde T

    Will the Kreg Jig K4 work for this project?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes!!

      • Sharde T

        Great! What about for making the pocket holes in the 4x4s? This is the first time I’m using my Kreg Jig K4, but I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and the measurements don’t look like they aren’t made for a 4×4. Thanks in advance!

      • Chris W

        I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and was wondering I can use the regular Kreg jig or if there is a different way to join the 4×4’s.

      • Natalie Martin

        Could you explain how to use the K4 on the 4x4s? I can’t find anything on the kreg site that helps! Thanks!!

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Hi Natalie,
          The 4×4’s need the Kreg HD… The HD drills pocket holes in 2×4 and 4×4

          • http://batman-news.com Chelsie

            Is there a way to do this project without the Kreg HD??

  • jrob2287

    I can’t for the life of me figure out how you’ve added the angled bracing. Are the any better photos of this spot?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey! I used 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue but for those without a brad nailer, counter sinking screws is the best way!

      • jrob2287

        Thanks!

        • Guest

          Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start.

      • Doug Beach

        Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          I used my brad nailer and wood glue. We suggested wood screws for those that don’t own nailers but 1/4″ brad nails will work and may be easier. If you are going to use wood acres, just pre drill at an angle into the leg and foot where the joints touch. Hope this helps!

  • pastorkevinwright

    Hey ladies. Just curious, did you use poly on the entire table or just the top?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey there! I just poly the table top. It’s probably best to poly the entire thing with at least one coat :) your table looks awesome!!!

  • Casey H

    I have a delimma…in step 10 where you drill the keg jog holes to attach the table top…I’m not quite sure how to do that since the layers are already assembled. I may be reading it wrong, and there weren’t any pics of that step:/. Any guidance would be great. Thanks so much for the wonderful plans!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Casey! You can use your Kreg Jig as the plans show (just take the block out of the Kreg Jig and clamp it) or just drill 2″ wood screws from under the the longest layer into the table top (that’s what I did so I didn’t have to bring as many tools in the house) ;) hope this helps!

      • Casey H

        Thanks for clearing that up. We’re so excited about this table:)

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Awesome!!! Happy to help:) share pictures with us once you are done, please :)

  • Starsky

    The table looks great! Thanks for the plans. The only question I had
    is how did you securely attach the 45˚ leg supports to the actual leg
    for the table? I’ve been trying to clamp the pieces to be able
    to counter screw them together but the pieces keep slipping. Any advice
    on how to keep the two pieces together?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      That’s awesome to hear! I actually just used wood glue and nailed them with my Airstrike. It’s not as secure but once the glue dries it’s fine!

  • Adam Roman

    The table came out great! Curious did you use pocket holes to attach the trim?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      I did! Thank you!

  • Erin @ How to Nest for Less

    Simply gorgeous!!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thanks Erin :)

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  • Lindsay Rice

    Would the legs support this if we made the top 6’x6’? you are so talented!!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Lindsay! They should work fine! I would adjust the width though to accommodate the added width of the table top :)

  • Jennifer Alison

    Can you make this a 6 foot table? Would anything besides the top need modification??

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Just adjust the table top and stretcher :)

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  • http://djthreads.blogspot.com/ Janny

    Love the table and the cart and………. Yep going to give one of these projects a try !

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Lol! Thank you Janny!!

  • Lynn Cutler

    I love how intricate these legs look, even though the build doesn’t look too complicated. I am planning to build a dining table this spring and have been admiring all your plans for a while now. Since we have 8 people in our family, and often have company, I’d like to seat about 10 at our table. Which do you think would be the best plan to make a really big table? Which leg formation is most comfortable for those sitting on the ends?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Lynn! You could have 10 here with seats
      At the ends. I have a parsons chair at each end and it’s great :)

  • astrollthrulife

    Your table is fabulous. I love, love, love it. Wow, I am impressed.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you so much!

  • ini99001

    Ashley, what did you use after you stained the table for water spills?

    • ini99001

      Thanks for the info, I don’t know if I missed it the first time around looking at your tutorial.
      Lovely table btw!

      • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

        Just added it! Sorry for the confusion:) thank you!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      So sorry! I forgot to add that to the post :)

  • Lori

    Gorgeous piece. You sure do have a lot of tables… are those all in your own house?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Lori! We both have one outside and inside and we give sell our old ones when it’s time to update :)

  • Cassie Thompson

    Love it! So you guys are making all your own plans now? I am always amazed to see how everything comes together – I could never do the math involved!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Cassie:)