Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE to print them!

restoration-dining-table-plansA huge shout-out to Jay at Jays Custom Creations for creating printable plans for us to share with you!

And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes.

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces.

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Ryobi Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill!

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot

foot-pads

legs-assembledNow, the legs

add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first!

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table.  Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush.

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it :)

Free-Dining-Table-Plans

DIY-Dining-Table

How-to-build-a-dining-table

 

Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by :) – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years :)  You can click the images for the tutorials!

diy-round-table

DIY-Dining-Table

DIY-Table-Pottery-Barn-Inspired

diy-wooden-dining-table

table7

 

 

 

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Could I use untreated Douglas Fir for the 4x4s? It’s the only untreated 4x4s I can find at HD…

  • Bethany Bonell

    What are the dimensions of the finished table?

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  • Robert Zamaro

    I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours :)

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      • Robert Zamaro

        Hey Jarmar :) Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know :) Thank you Jarmar.

  • JK John Hitman

    So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    • Robert Zamaro

      I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

        Great tip, Robert!!!

  • Jarmar Dupas

    Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      No, a 12″ is needed for that.

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Thanks!

      • Jarmar Dupas

        Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them :)

  • Michael Fallon

    I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    • Jarmar Dupas

      Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?

      • Michael Fallon

        Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

  • Shannon

    What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps :)

  • Justin

    Hello,

    What were the foot pads dimensions?

    Thanks!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Justin,
      The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.

      • Justin

        Thanks, and about how thick??

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          1x :) just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″

  • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

    Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games ;)

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        amazing!

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Thank you Glynnis ;)

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith

        the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Just the wood :)

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  • Richelle K

    I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

  • http://www.thecamelshump.org/ Justin Camblin

    Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

  • Vanessa Williams

    I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work :)

      • Vanessa Williams

        Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks

        • Vanessa Williams

          Working on benches now!

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing :)

  • Michael Fallon

    Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!

  • Lina Beers

    are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Lina,
      There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it :)

  • John Hack

    So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi John!
      Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?

      • John Hack

        OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it :)

          • John Hack

            Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
            PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.

          • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

            Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! :) thanks so much for sharing!

          • Michael Fallon

            Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?

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  • Steve

    So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.

    Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!

      • Steve

        Thanks I’ll try it!

  • Debbra Tackett

    but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post :)

  • rjcross

    I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
    I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
    Do you have any pros and cons to either?
    And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
    The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…

  • KPresley

    Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!

  • digital_andrew

    Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!

  • Lane Cook

    Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      You can do that if you would like :)

  • daphness84

    What are the finished dimensions of this table?

  • Brooke

    Hi, can you tells what kind of floors are in your house? I love them!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Brooke! I shared a link to the flooring at the end of this post :)

  • J Sucherman

    How do you clamp down the pocket hole joints in the MIDDLE of the table? The clamps don’t reach! Please help thanks

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey josh! I work from one end to the other so I’m adding 1 board at a time and clamping that board… Make sense? Then it only has to reach the width of 1 board…

      • joshmade

        Yes, thanks so much, u gals are great

  • Tyi Duncan-Whitcomb

    What are the finished dimnesions?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      7 ft x 41.5″

  • RT

    Hi Guys, I absolutely love what you guys are doing here! I am having trouble finding untreated pine or whitewood 4x4x8 posts in my area. Did you find them at your local home depot? Thanks and cannot wait to get started on this project!

    • http://batman-news.com nate

      Keep searching. They are out there. Lowes and Home Depot stopped selling untreated 4X4’s for some unknown reason. Check your local lumber yards

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      We do find them at Home Depot but try a local lumber yard too!

  • Sharde T

    Will the Kreg Jig K4 work for this project?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Yes!!

      • Sharde T

        Great! What about for making the pocket holes in the 4x4s? This is the first time I’m using my Kreg Jig K4, but I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and the measurements don’t look like they aren’t made for a 4×4. Thanks in advance!

      • Chris W

        I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and was wondering I can use the regular Kreg jig or if there is a different way to join the 4×4’s.

      • Natalie Martin

        Could you explain how to use the K4 on the 4x4s? I can’t find anything on the kreg site that helps! Thanks!!

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Hi Natalie,
          The 4×4’s need the Kreg HD… The HD drills pocket holes in 2×4 and 4×4

  • jrob2287

    I can’t for the life of me figure out how you’ve added the angled bracing. Are the any better photos of this spot?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey! I used 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue but for those without a brad nailer, counter sinking screws is the best way!

      • jrob2287

        Thanks!

        • Guest

          Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start.

      • Doug Beach

        Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          I used my brad nailer and wood glue. We suggested wood screws for those that don’t own nailers but 1/4″ brad nails will work and may be easier. If you are going to use wood acres, just pre drill at an angle into the leg and foot where the joints touch. Hope this helps!

  • pastorkevinwright

    Hey ladies. Just curious, did you use poly on the entire table or just the top?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hey there! I just poly the table top. It’s probably best to poly the entire thing with at least one coat :) your table looks awesome!!!

  • Casey H

    I have a delimma…in step 10 where you drill the keg jog holes to attach the table top…I’m not quite sure how to do that since the layers are already assembled. I may be reading it wrong, and there weren’t any pics of that step:/. Any guidance would be great. Thanks so much for the wonderful plans!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Casey! You can use your Kreg Jig as the plans show (just take the block out of the Kreg Jig and clamp it) or just drill 2″ wood screws from under the the longest layer into the table top (that’s what I did so I didn’t have to bring as many tools in the house) ;) hope this helps!

      • Casey H

        Thanks for clearing that up. We’re so excited about this table:)

        • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

          Awesome!!! Happy to help:) share pictures with us once you are done, please :)

  • Starsky

    The table looks great! Thanks for the plans. The only question I had
    is how did you securely attach the 45˚ leg supports to the actual leg
    for the table? I’ve been trying to clamp the pieces to be able
    to counter screw them together but the pieces keep slipping. Any advice
    on how to keep the two pieces together?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      That’s awesome to hear! I actually just used wood glue and nailed them with my Airstrike. It’s not as secure but once the glue dries it’s fine!

  • Adam Roman

    The table came out great! Curious did you use pocket holes to attach the trim?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      I did! Thank you!

  • Erin @ How to Nest for Less

    Simply gorgeous!!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thanks Erin :)

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  • Lindsay Rice

    Would the legs support this if we made the top 6’x6’? you are so talented!!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Lindsay! They should work fine! I would adjust the width though to accommodate the added width of the table top :)

  • Jennifer Alison

    Can you make this a 6 foot table? Would anything besides the top need modification??

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Just adjust the table top and stretcher :)

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  • http://djthreads.blogspot.com/ Janny

    Love the table and the cart and………. Yep going to give one of these projects a try !

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Lol! Thank you Janny!!

  • Lynn Cutler

    I love how intricate these legs look, even though the build doesn’t look too complicated. I am planning to build a dining table this spring and have been admiring all your plans for a while now. Since we have 8 people in our family, and often have company, I’d like to seat about 10 at our table. Which do you think would be the best plan to make a really big table? Which leg formation is most comfortable for those sitting on the ends?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Hi Lynn! You could have 10 here with seats
      At the ends. I have a parsons chair at each end and it’s great :)

  • astrollthrulife

    Your table is fabulous. I love, love, love it. Wow, I am impressed.

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you so much!

  • ini99001

    Ashley, what did you use after you stained the table for water spills?

    • ini99001

      Thanks for the info, I don’t know if I missed it the first time around looking at your tutorial.
      Lovely table btw!

      • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

        Just added it! Sorry for the confusion:) thank you!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      So sorry! I forgot to add that to the post :)

  • Lori

    Gorgeous piece. You sure do have a lot of tables… are those all in your own house?

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Lori! We both have one outside and inside and we give sell our old ones when it’s time to update :)

  • Cassie Thompson

    Love it! So you guys are making all your own plans now? I am always amazed to see how everything comes together – I could never do the math involved!

    • http://www.shanty-2-chic.com/ Shanty2Chic

      Thank you Cassie:)