Restoration Hardware Inspired Dining Table for $110

Hey there!  I’ve been moving right along trying to fill up all of the empty rooms in our new house.  This week I moved into our dining room and I have been dying to build this Restoration Hardware inspired Dining Table since we started building our new house!  You may have seen a sneak peak of this beauty on our Instagram!  Make sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most current projects!
Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableMan I love this table!  The piece that inspired it is $2,205 before tax and I built mine for $110!  Wow, wow, wow!  I still can’t believe it!

***UPDATE: Free plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!***

Of course, we want you all to be able to build one too so we have FREE Printable plans for you!  Just click the image below or HERE for the free plans.



And, as always, I’ve provided my tutorial pictures to make it even easier for you to create your own!  I love building tables because you get so much bang for your work and money.  They look intimidating but this one, especially, is VERY EASY to build!

planked-topI started by attaching the 1×6 boards to create the planked top!

drill-pocket-holesI used my K5 set at 3/4″ to drill pocket holes. You can find the Kreg Jig HERE on Amazon. Watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig video HERE!

attach-planksAnd, I used 1 1/4″ screws to attach the boards. To create a smooth surface and to keep the top from bowing, just clamp each pocket joint as you go. You can find the Kreg Jig Face Clamps HERE on Amazon.

clamp-jointsEasy! Ready for trim!

add-long-trimMake sure to measure and cut as you go for the trim pieces.

miter-4x4I used my Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw to cut the 4×4 pieces. Watch our How to use a Miter Saw video HERE!

mitered-legHere’s a pic of the 45 degree miter that you will need to cut for the feet.

sand-boardsAnd, before assembling the pieces, I gave them a good sanding with my Ryobi Corner Cat sander.  I don’t always do this before assembly but the 4×4’s were dirty and pretty rough.  I used a 50-grit sanding pad for this.

Kreg-Jig-HDToo attach the 4×4’s, I used my Kreg HD.  It’s super easy, clamp and drill! You can find the Kreg Jig HD HERE on Amazon.

base-with-stretcherHere is the stretcher and the feet assembled.  Don’t use wood glue here because this is a temporary assembly just to establish the pocket hole joints. After assembled, remove the stretcher

legsand add the short feet.

add-foot-padsAdd the foot pads to each foot


legs-assembledNow, the legs


add-top-of-legsThen, start stacking the 2×4 cuts on top of the legs.  I used 2 1/2″ spax screws.  They are a bit pricey for wood screws but you don’t have to pre-drill!

stack-layers-on-legsHere are the legs completely assembled and now, believe it or not, it’s time to stain! Don’t assemble the table yet, stain first! ***To attach these angle pieces we suggest screws in the plans. However, if you have a nailer, that will work great! If you choose to use wood screws, just predrill from the top of the angle piece into the leg post at an angle (bottom pieces angle down, top pieces angle up). Follow with 2″ wood screws and fill your screw holes with wood filler.***

Rustoleum-Carrington-Stain1I chose Carrington by Rust-Oleum to finish the table. (You can find Rust-oleum Stain HERE on Amazon) Just wipe on one-coat with a clean cloth, wait 5-minutes to let it sit, then wipe with another clean cloth to blend it.

distress-table-edgesI wanted the table to look worn so I used my Ryobi Corner Cat sander to distress all over.  I used an 80-grit sanding pad for this part. (I didn’t decide to do this until the table was inside and assembled…. It made a big mess so if you know you will do this, do it before you bring it inside).

polyI did add 3 coats of Varathayne polyurethane to the table in, matte finish, with a bristle brush. (You can find the Poly HERE on Amazon).

DIY-Dining-Table-PlansLOVE it 🙂





Restoration-Hardware-Inspired-Dining-TableNow I need to get busy on the benches and filling up the rest of the room!  I have to say that this is by far my favorite table that I have built so far!

diy-dining-table-benchesFree plans for the matching benches can be found HERE!

Thanks so much for stopping by 🙂 – Ashley

Curious about some of the other things you have seen in this room?

You can find out about the paint colors HERE!

I shared the flooring HERE!

The chandelier HERE!

diy-bar-cart-2DIY Bar Cart HERE!

Pallet_ArtPottery Barn Inspired Pallet Art HERE!

And we have built a TON of tables over the years 🙂  You can click the images for the tutorials!









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  1. Brian McDowell on December 19, 2017 at 10:38 am

    Hi, did you apply finish to the whole table or just the table top? I’ve seen it go either way, but wanted to check. Thanks!

  2. Jordan Simpson on November 8, 2017 at 7:44 pm

    This was my first ever woodworking project and I had so much fun!
    I couldnt find the Kreg HD screws locally so I substituted #14 2.5 inch screws instead. I shaved down the height of the foot pads quite bit as the table sat higher than we wanted. I love it!

  3. Andrew Edmond on November 3, 2017 at 4:09 pm

    A couple shots of my walnut version of this table, which I milled from rough “hit or miss” lumber. Took ~3 months of weekends and nights, though a lot of this was learning on the “job” for me. I cut and laminated 1.75″ x 1.75″ x 8.5′ planks together for the table top. I experimented with every stain I could find, and many finishes (poly… oil and water based, shellac, lacquer, epoxy) but settled on an Ebony stain from Daly’s with a lacquer finished rubbed out to a high gloss. An additional ~3 months for the custom home built chairs too, also from rough lumber. I also had to buy a ton of tools – planer, jointer, track saw, and so much more. Worth the effort and I feel like I made my family a generational heirloom!

  4. Nick Mayhill on November 1, 2017 at 7:44 am

    Built our dream home, and so I wanted to create something for our home. This table was perfect, took some extra time, but it is finally installed and holiday meals will be shared over it. Thanks for the plans!

  5. Eric on September 10, 2017 at 7:56 am

    For the top, do you glue each 1×6 and then use pocket screws?

  6. Craig dewitt on August 9, 2017 at 7:15 am

    Thank you so much for these plans! Just finished our table and wanted to share pics. We shortened the length to 75″ and took one layer of the 2×4 out of the top of the bases/legs to shorten the height. We are so happy with the final result!

  7. Tracy on July 10, 2017 at 1:12 pm

    So we used polycrylic on the table not really thinking because we had it on hand and what I use to seal wood signs. But the more I think the more I feel this wont be a good finish for a long life. Plus I’ve always heard that a polyurethane yellows overtime and I don’t want that to happen. Do I sand it down and apply the polyurethane? Or just place a coat of the polyurethane over the polycrylic? Advise?

  8. Jennifer Moore Hedlund on June 24, 2017 at 5:38 pm

    Here’s my finished project!!!!

  9. MrAccone on June 6, 2017 at 11:33 am

    Awesome project. Table looks great and (most importantly) my wife loves it. First time working on a project like this but the plans made it very easy. Stain looks incredible! (Although I may be biased because my name is Carrington)

  10. J Manuel Romero on May 25, 2017 at 11:45 pm

    You guys have built some pretty awesome tables. This is my very first dabbling into woodworking and am both unfamiliar with wood and inexperienced with the tools. I just finished putting together the tabletop. It isn’t perfect. I am wondering if I could get some advice.

    I noticed when putting the 1×6 together, that they didn’t meet perfectly flushed next to each other. Is there a trick to getting them to do so. This caused some of them to have as much as 1/8″ gap. The other issue I had is that some of the pocket screws went through the piece that I was screwing into. The odd thing is that the pocket hole right next to it would be fine. Is this an issue with how I drilled the pocket hole or how I screwed in the screw, or both? What could I do to reduce this from happening? I suppose experience will help.

    Now that it has happened, I don’t want to start from scratch. I kind of want to work through it. Any suggestions would help. Do I try to plane it? I don’t have a manual planer so I will need to get one. Some areas are pretty bad/uneven. I picked up some plastic wood to try and fill in some of the gaps, then plane, then sand, then stain. Here are some pictures. Like I said, be kind, this is my very first project. 🙂

    • Jake Sells on September 25, 2017 at 4:47 pm

      I had the same issue with some of the screws poking out. Luckily, I own an angle grinder, which worked perfectly to grind down any nail exposed tips. As I’m going for a rustic barn feel, it actually added some character to the piece as there are some distressed metal accents in the table top now.

      • Jake Sells on September 25, 2017 at 5:10 pm

        Also for your table top, the fix to make it flush there would be to do 1/8″ rip cuts on the ends of each 1×6, however this requires a table saw or precise circular saw cuts with a straight edge. The good thing about going for the rustic look is that it doesn’t need to be perfect. For example, I want my table top to appear as if it was torn off the side of a barn (yet still usable).

  11. John Faulkner on May 11, 2017 at 1:57 pm

    I finished the table and bench! I went with the rustic looked. We used 2 different stains (Weathered Oak and Golden Oak), we then used the gray wash method to finalize the “Rustic” look.

  12. Andrew on April 24, 2017 at 9:15 am

    Hi Whitney and Ashley,

    Thanks for posting the design and plans, I’m really looking forward to starting this. Couple of quick questions though concerning how to best hide some of the more noticeable joints.

    Specifically steps 7 and 8 on your plans.

    Step 7 – The HD screws and drill bit as you know are pretty enormous, leaving two huge pocket holes in the 4×4 in a visible location. How did you fill these? Did you use the Kreg plugs? Wood filler? Saw dust and glue? I’m noticing on a lot of the user pictures that these joints in particular are clearly visible. Any pro tips for making these seamless?

    Step 8 – There are the holes created by joining the angled braces. I understand you nail those pieces? So I guess you end up with a smaller hole to fill as compared to drilling? Any specific recommendations for those? Between the 3 lower angled braces and the bottom of the top braces you’ve got 18 holes within eye-site, so I want to do the best I can to make sure those dont show.

    Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks for everything!

  13. Cortinarium Decoración on March 21, 2017 at 10:45 am

    First of all, I wanted to say thank you for
    the plans and inspiration.

    I finally finished it and this is the result

    • Shanty2Chic on March 21, 2017 at 4:17 pm

      It’s beautiful!!

    • Chris on April 10, 2017 at 6:47 am

      What stain did you use???

  14. Neil Whitney on February 20, 2017 at 9:24 am

    Has anyone made this table counter-height?

  15. Erica Salas on January 27, 2017 at 7:05 pm

    Hi there, is there a big difference between the K4 jig and the K5 kreg jig? I’m hoping to get away with using the K4 because it is quite a bit cheaper.

  16. Jeff on January 24, 2017 at 7:58 pm

    Just finished mine this weekend with a concrete top. I love it , the wife loves it, everyone loves it… Thank you so much for the plans.

  17. Shauna Zimmerman on January 11, 2017 at 11:13 am

    Is there any way to make this only 5ft long? would I have to alter the size of the legs? or just the length between them? Thanks!

  18. Jeremy Medley on January 8, 2017 at 5:11 am

    I just finished the legs and there is a slight wiggle. Is this ok or normal until they get attached to the stretcher and table? I used brad nails instead of screws for the angled pieces. I’m worried that may be the cause?

  19. a3uge on December 22, 2016 at 1:10 pm

    This is likely me being an idiot, but make sure you still use 1-1/4″ pocket screws when you’re drilling into the 2×4 trim pieces. I read the instructions as needing to use 2-1/2″ screws when drilling into the 2x4s. Those are only for drilling the 2x4s to each other.

  20. heather on December 16, 2016 at 5:32 pm

    Do you have a video for this table or one similar?

  21. on November 30, 2016 at 1:40 am

    Timely comments – my business partner a few weeks ago was told about to edit pdf ! It’s very uncomplicated to try and it’s economical – I think I heard that they will give a 30 day trial ongoing

  22. Brian on November 26, 2016 at 8:13 pm

    Just finished mine! Thanks for the plans!!! Still need to fill in the corners, but otherwise it’s done!

  23. Christine Hill on November 18, 2016 at 9:21 am

    Hi there,

    Can you make the table longer than the plans? We were hoping to make a 12 foot long table.


  24. Eric Park on November 7, 2016 at 11:45 am

    Finished the table and wanted to post a thank you for the plans and also everyone’s comments. I read through every single comment before starting this project and learned a lot through this process. This was the first wood working item I’ve built outside of highschool woods class and to be honest it wasn’t that hard. Table was finished in 2 days in my garage, and then stained and poly’ed. We plan to host our first thanksgiving this year on this table.

    Several tweaks from the original plans:
    1. Used 1.5” red oak planks instead of white wood for the top. Although a bit more pricey ($250 for the top alone at a local lumbar yard), we wanted a top that doesn’t get dented easily, is more solid, and also eliminate the boards that go around the perimeter of the top. The 4×4’s were untreated fir from HD and 2×4’s premium select boards from Lowes, I was surprised how cheap the 2×4’s and 4×4’s were.

    2. I shortened the middle spacer from 35.5” to 31″. Otherwise the support hits the legs of the chair. This was based on a comment that the plans accommodate a bench and not chairs, so after measurements and some mock ups with chairs, 31″ works with our chairs. 4 chairs on each side also work with this spacer size.

    3. I went 96″ long by 42″ wide. The table is very stable even with the slightly shortened base. Also very heavy with the oak top.

    4. The total height of the table once completed was 33″. This was a little high for our chairs, so like some comments suggested, we took out the middle layer on step 9 of the plans. This is the perfect table height. I also also mitered the ends of the top layer on step 10 with the 45* miter to match the support under it.

    5. Glued up the top and then also used the kregg screws. So the strength of the top is from the glue vs kregg screws alone. I could probably take the kregg jig screws out now that the glue has dried, but they’re in there so I’ll keep it. I used titebond 3 wood glue which has a 4000 psi strength. The wood around the glue will break before the glue gives. 🙂

    6. I also cut the feet from the 4×4’s not the 2×4’s as the plan suggests so the size is an exact match.

    7. I added rubber feet squares from HD to raise the wood feet just over the carpet. This is just in case the dried stain bleeds into the carpet if the wood ever got wet. Do people poly the feet to seal in the stain? I read that poly on carpet can yellow the carpet over time.

    8. Used a router to slightly round the edge of the top.

    9. Table is stained a warm gray with 70% Weathered Gray 30% Jacobean. It’s a bit more gray than brown and if I did it again I’d do 50/50. Used clear shellac on all the board ends to seal the ends so the ends dont stain super dark. Otherwise the ends will drink the stain and it will be much darker than the rest of the table.

    10. Mixed the stain blend with the wood filler first and then applied the filler. I learned dried wood filler doesn’t stain well at all despite it being called stain-able.

    11. Used Varathane Matte poly. It’s a really nice matte finish.

    I think that’s it. Now time to paint the walls a nice gray.


    • Andrew on April 23, 2017 at 7:45 pm

      Thanks for all of those details Eric. I’ll be starting this soon and it’ll be helpful. Couple of quick questions if you don’t mind?

      I’ve been having the same thought going into this that I want to use a sturdier hard wood for the table-top, which is of course more expensive. So you I want to use a cheaper wood for the base like you did. Did you run into issues though when staining and the 2 species taking the stain differently? I’m afraid the stain will take differently and the grain will not match making the top look different from the bottom.

      The other thing was regarding the shortened middle 4×4 so that the head chairs don’t hit the feet. Good call. Im worried about the feet on the table sides getting in the way too. You made your table wider than the plans, 42″, so do you run into any problems with chairs or people legs hitting those feet? Or did widening the table resolve that?

      Thanks so much!!

  25. Michael Horn on October 22, 2016 at 6:53 pm

    F inished! Now i just need to get a light fixture up there!

  26. Mary Klassen on October 7, 2016 at 10:24 am

    Anyone know how to mount and use the jig to drill the pocket holes to mount the tabletop? I do not understand the last step. I assume I am using the K5?

    • Michael Horn on October 13, 2016 at 8:24 am

      Hi Mary, I just came on here to share what I did and saw your comment! Unfortunately the K5 can only clamp on to 1.5″ material and less. Some, including Shanty2Chic said they just screwed the the pedestals onto the top using normal wood screw from below (2″ screws would be my best estimate). I ended up buying a kregjig mini for about $20. I used a 6″ C clamp (though any clamp that would fit around the wood would be fine) and clamped the kregjig mini to the leg and the marked locations. for actual 3/4″ wood top you just follow the instructions that come with the kregjig mini. I hope this helps. I can add pictures later when i go out to the table if it will help.

      • John Faulkner on April 6, 2017 at 6:01 am

        Hi Michael,

        I’m stumped on mounting the top and trying to wrap my head around how to do it. Would it be possible to post a photo of how you did the pocket hole to mount the top? I thought I had it figured out from reading the explanation, but when I attempted it, I became confused. I would be very grateful!

        • Shanty2Chic on April 6, 2017 at 6:11 am

          You can just drive wood screws from the bottom of the base arms into the table top. To make the pocket holes on the base arms you would have to take the kreg jig block out of the jig and clamp it to the arm to drill the hole. Wood screws will work fine. Hope this helps!

          • John Faulkner on April 6, 2017 at 9:56 am

            Sounds good! I am going to give this a shot tonight. I appreciate the quick response.

          • Jake Sells on September 27, 2017 at 2:35 pm

            Will 2″ spax screws work?

        • Michael Horn on April 6, 2017 at 7:50 am

          Hi John,
          I attached the kregjig mini with a 6″ C clamp to the top supports to drill these holes for connecting the top to the base. Hope this helps!

          • John Faulkner on April 6, 2017 at 9:51 am

            Thanks Michael! I get it now 😉

  27. Andrew on August 27, 2016 at 9:28 pm

    Finished the table! Going to tackle the benches next. For the stain, I went with a 60/40 mix of Weathered Oak and Classic Grey and then distressed. Love how it turned out!

  28. jjw129 on August 16, 2016 at 11:27 am

    Just about finished with mine. I love this table! Thank you for the plans. I modified the top with reclaimed wood to give a different character. I am so happy how it came out. I also made chairs to match instead of a bench.

    • R. T. on September 9, 2016 at 4:30 pm

      Can you tell me how tall the table is… We’d like to order some chairs for it before building it, but can’t figure out the height. Thanks.

  29. Bonnie on August 9, 2016 at 10:57 am

    Hi! I’m late to the party but I reeeally want to build this table. I bought almost everything, including equipment like a miter saw, kreg jig kit, most of the wood….only to realize that I can’t find 4x4x8’s anywhere!!! 🙁 I can special order knotty white pine in 4x4x12’s but they’re unfinished and quite pricey. Are there other alternatives or suggestions you could offer?? Thanks in advance!

  30. Tommy Obenauf on July 27, 2016 at 8:28 pm

    Just finished my table and made 2 matching benches. Building my house currently so don’t have it installed and set up fully. Used Select 1’1/8′ pine from Home depot for the tops and used douglas fur 4×4’s for the bases. Hand sanded everything, filled all holes and jig bores and routed the corners with a 1/4” round over bit on my rigid hand router. Finished with Sherwin williams new ebony and 8 coats of semi gloss wipe on poly by minimax with 400 grit and extra fine steel wool between coats. Now on to building a coffee and end tables 🙂

  31. Bonnie on July 18, 2016 at 4:00 pm

    Hi there! I LOOOVE this table and was all prepared to build it…we even got most of the wood and any equipment we didn’t already have, only to realize that 4x4x8’s in pine are nowhere to be found where we live!! 🙁 I can special order rough knotty pine but it’ll be 12′ and pretty expensive, too. 🙁 Do you have any suggestions for alternatives to the 4x4x8’s?? Thanks in advance! 🙂

  32. Markus on July 3, 2016 at 8:35 am

    Hello Shanty 2 Chic,

    What a beautiful table you have built! Your website is like a candy store for my wife as we like rustic furniture.

    I am planning to build this table for my wife. I was looking into different types of wood as I am not sure what I want to use yet. It would be more expensive but do you have any opinions on wood such as Notty Pine, Oak, Cedar, or Maple? What in your opinion would be the most durable wood to use? Also I am looking through your plans to build a patio table as well, what type of would would you suggest for outdoor durability. I live in Alberta so we defiantly have changing climates so the more durable the better.

    Thank You

  33. Spencer Poole on July 1, 2016 at 6:12 am

    Hi, I love this table. I just got done building mine but I had to put some wood filler into the inside joint of all of the 2x4s around the table edge because some of the gaps were too large. Any idea how to smooth the filler down a bit as my sander can’t fit down in between the joints?

  34. RikiDam on June 17, 2016 at 4:09 pm

    Hello, I write from Italy, great plan and explanation. I have a question: how much weight can tolerate the pedestals? I would like to use one of the beams you see in the pictures that have thicknesses of about 8 cm of solid wood. Thanks for the reply. Hello.

  35. Cindy Dabney on June 16, 2016 at 10:42 am

    I had a really hard time leveling the table. I followed all the directions but when I put the stretcher on the first time I only screwed in slightly to make the holes. I think I should have screwed the HD screws all the way in to make sure it was sitting level before I removed it and proceeded? Any tips you can give would be appreciated I still had to schim the top before I screwed in to the base to get it level as well. Was a bit of a challenge. I want to make another one for my daughter so any help would be appreciated.

  36. Don on June 16, 2016 at 7:21 am

    Hi. I’m about to embark on this project for my kids and their new home. My son is concerned the thin 1x6s for the top will sound hollow and not substantial. I’m concerned the thin planks could split and check. Could you provide your thoughts on this? Thanks

  37. Jean-yves Gourlay on May 10, 2016 at 12:13 pm

    Great plans and explanations. Very dry wood is a must if you use 1″ on the bench and table top, otherwise it will separate from the 2″x 4″ frame. I did a 99″ table and bench , would not have been possible without the Kreg system.
    Thanks again for your time and all the details.

    • Andrew on April 23, 2017 at 7:36 pm

      Hi Jean-yves,

      What did you do to attach the angled braces to the feet and vertical 4×4? Screws? Nails? The plan calls for drilling screws down into the feet and into the 4×4, which leaves some eye sores of holes. But I don’t notice those holes in your picture. Did you do something differently? Or did you just fill them really well? If so, how did you fill them?


  38. stephanie smith on May 3, 2016 at 11:14 am

    Hi there! Attempting to make this table next weekend. I see that you need the Kreg HD for the 2×4 and 4×4 pieces. Is it possible to use the Kreg Jig R3 for the 1×6 pieces? Excited to start – wood working first timer! 🙂

  39. Maria Ashraff on April 26, 2016 at 11:00 pm

    Hi Shanty2Chic…we made a farmhouse table using your plans with some modifications. For the tabletop we wanted breadboards…so we used the tabletop from another one of your tutorials and for the base we used this one. We mostly used mortise/tenon joints. Wanted to share the pictures here, and thank you guys for providing the plans and inspiration. 🙂

    • Maria Ashraff on April 26, 2016 at 11:03 pm

      Here’s another view.

    • Erika Ikwild on October 8, 2016 at 8:47 pm

      Hi there, what color stain did you use for this?

      • Maria Ashraff on October 15, 2016 at 6:51 pm

        Hey I’m so sorry I wasn’t able to respond earlier. The stain we used was varathane dark walnut. We applied it wiped it right off so it didn’t get too dark. Hope that helps!

        • Erika Ikwild on October 17, 2016 at 6:49 am

          Awesome, thank you! Did you use a rag to stain? or a sponge brush?

          • Maria Ashraff on October 19, 2016 at 6:39 am

            No problem! 🙂 We used a brush and then wiped off with a rag.

          • Maria Ashraff on October 19, 2016 at 6:41 am

            Also we did use a wood conditioner prior to staining.

      • Maria Ashraff on October 15, 2016 at 10:12 pm

        Hi …sorry took so long to respond! We used Varathane Dark Walnut…applied it and wiped it right off so it wouldn’t become too dark. Hope that helps! Feel free to ask any other questions…I’ll reply sooner this time 🙂

    • Andrew on April 23, 2017 at 7:38 pm

      Hi Maria,

      What did you do to attach the angled braces to the feet and vertical 4×4? Screws? Nails? The plan calls for drilling screws down into the feet and into the 4×4, which leaves some eye sores of holes. But I don’t notice those holes in your picture. Did you do something differently? Or did you just fill them really well? If so, how did you fill them? Same question with the pocket holes on the 4×4 going down into the base foot.


      • Maria Ashraff on April 23, 2017 at 9:40 pm

        Hey Andrew!

        For most of the joining we used mortise/tenon joinery. But for the angled pieces we did screw it in but countersunk before putting in the screw then covered with wood putty. I am out of town right now but when we are back home I can send you a picture of the wood putty we used. Please feel free to ask if you have any other questions.


  40. Holly Green Christiansen on April 9, 2016 at 10:40 pm

    Thank you for the awesome plans! We love our table! Here is a picture of how my husband finished ours. Now for the seating…..

    • Jesse Rios on August 28, 2016 at 12:17 am

      Love the painted base, it looks so good! Can you give any tips on what you used or how you painted it? Thanks.

  41. Holly Green Christiansen on April 9, 2016 at 6:25 pm

    Here’s a pic of how my husband finished ours.

  42. Holly Green Christiansen on April 9, 2016 at 6:23 pm

    Thanks for the wonderful plans! Love how it turned out!

  43. Carrie Higgs McCallus on March 28, 2016 at 3:41 pm

    I’m curious how much you all spent on wood, so far I am up to $160 just on wood, Not including any of the screws.

    • Rowewillj on June 2, 2016 at 10:12 pm

      Lumber cost me about $120 (all select pine) there’s a Kreg Screw Kit for $24 on Amazon and at Home Depot that has all the 1/4 screws and HD screws you will need, just need to get a $7 container of Coarse 2 1/2″ screws from the home store.

      So that’s $151. I had the Kreg Jig and HD already, not to mention the clamps and things but if you go to buy that you can spend from $75-$150 for the jigs themselves.. Another $20 per clamp and you’ll need more than 1 and a 6″ for sure!

      if you have the tools and just need wood and screws like I did, $151 was my total (plus tax) haha!

      • Shanty2Chic on June 2, 2016 at 10:24 pm

        Lumber prices vary by location. We try to give an estimate but the best way to estimate your cost is to look up the supplies online. Hope this helps!

  44. Vidal Quevedo on March 23, 2016 at 9:27 am

    Hi, first off, LOVE this site. I have already built one of your coffee tables and the wheeled bookshelf, and really appreciate all the cool info you guys share!

    Next, I’m thinking of building this table. But I have one question: based on the design with a “center” base, how stable is the table itself? I have a 2 yr old that likes to cling/climb on things, and I was wondering if the table could at all tip over on its side if a 30+ pound kid hung on one of its long edges.

    Just a safety question (might be completely overblown, but just had to ask =) )

    • Rowewillj on June 2, 2016 at 10:14 pm

      When I built the table there’s VERY little away when you weigh one side, if your at all nervous about this you can add 2-4″ (or more) on the base legs and just make it wider, that’s where your support is coming from anyways! Just remember that if doing this you’ll have it bothering feet that much more!

  45. Chelsea on March 22, 2016 at 11:05 am

    Hi There! My husband and I are currently building this table… I was just curious to see if you took the sander to distress the top of the table, too? It’s a bit hard to tell in the pictures. Thanks!!

    • Amber Schreiner on April 2, 2016 at 10:40 am

      I was wondering about this too!

  46. Caitlin Chapman on March 12, 2016 at 11:22 am

    We are wanting to make this table and benches into a 10 foot table. Does anyone have plans and a list of materials that they’ve used to build a table that big?

    • Courtney on December 27, 2017 at 6:43 pm

      Did you ever build this as 10 feet? Wanting to do the same thing.

  47. Andy Hill on March 10, 2016 at 10:41 am

    Ready to start this project!! Are the diagonal pieces on the legs more for aesthetics (can they be removed) or are they really adding structural support? Beautiful work by the way!

  48. Andy Hill on March 10, 2016 at 9:59 am

    Ready to start this project!! Are the diagonal pieces on the legs more for aesthetics (can they be removed) or are they really adding structural support? Beautiful work by the way!

  49. BFain on February 15, 2016 at 5:40 am

    We love our table!!! Thanks Shanty2Chic for the idea and plans…Buffet is up next!!!

    • landyten on April 9, 2016 at 9:12 am

      Looks amazing! Can you share what stain you used? Did you use a conditioner before hand?

      • BFain on April 15, 2016 at 1:41 pm

        Thanks! I used Minwax Wood Finish English Chestnut 233 and several coats of Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin. I did not use a conditioner. We were very happy with the way it turned out!

  50. Merika Stout on February 9, 2016 at 12:07 am

    I’m working in a smaller space, but I love this table. Can you tell me the dimensions of this guy so that I can work with my hubby to shorten it to our needs?

  51. Karina Westrate on February 7, 2016 at 8:09 pm

    Love the table–wondering to get the top even and smooth did you send the top through a plainer? Or how did you achieve that smooth top surface?

  52. Joseph S Dailey on January 31, 2016 at 6:44 am

    Can anyone give advice, pictures or better explanation on how to attach table top to legs?

  53. Luke Tos on January 10, 2016 at 2:51 pm

    Hello, I have a question about the quality of wood you suggest using. Where I live in CA, there isn’t very great quality wood, and most places it ends up warping. Where did you get yours? Do you think it is imperative to get wood that will not warp? We have a Lowe’s but the quality is usually pretty poor. The other option is to order online but then we are probably looking in the area of $1,000 to do that, so I am told. Your thoughts would be welcome.

  54. A. Burke on December 28, 2015 at 3:28 pm

    I really want to build this table with my husband, but we need a 10 person table and I don’t know what size to do, or if these plans can be made to work for a table that size? Can anyone help me?
    Thanks so much!

  55. Nicole Zeelenberg Quinones on December 23, 2015 at 7:17 pm

    Might be a stupid question, but what did you use for the feet at the bottom for the table? We are about to assemble the legs.BTW love this table and all of you projects!

    • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 7:33 pm

      Not stupid! At the end of the 1×6 boards, you will see 3.5×3.5 pieces to cut from them to make the foot pads. If you have scrap 1×4 you could use that too. Hope this helps 🙂

  56. Jared Aucoin on December 23, 2015 at 12:26 pm

    Can anyone help me with this table design? I’m using the Kreg HD screws and the 4×4’s still wobble. Anyone else have that problem?

    • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 7:33 pm

      It sounds like you might need to drill more shallow holes….

      • Jared Aucoin on December 23, 2015 at 9:42 pm

        How do I drill more shallow holes? What should the length of the bit for the HD Jig be? First time I did 5 1/2″ and this time I did a 3 1/2″. (it barely went into the 4×4 this last time) Do I need to connect the HD jig to my master kreg jig? First DIY project and I seem to be retarded.

  57. Ryan on December 23, 2015 at 9:29 am

    Just finished and it turned out great. Has anyone made this without the middle 2×4 in the stack of 3 on top of legs? My final height came to ~31″, but a normal dining table is supposed to be more like 29.5″. Was thinking I might try pulling that piece out.

    • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 9:34 am

      Happy to hear! The dining table that I modeled this after is set at 31″ tall so that was the reason for this height.

    • Michael Fallon on December 23, 2015 at 6:41 pm

      I think I actually removed the top 2×4. Built a year ago, still love it.

    • Sam Durrett on April 7, 2016 at 8:45 pm

      We pulled out the middle 2x4s of the stack after putting the table together. We are much happier with the height. I’m tall and 31″ table felt strange.

  58. Jenna Green Maddox on December 23, 2015 at 4:08 am

    How is that possible when it shows in the plans to cut the legs at 35 1/2″ tall?

    • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 8:37 am

      The runner is 35 1/5″ long that goes between the legs. There is one cut at 35 1/2″ and the legs are 21 3/4.

  59. Jenna Green Maddox on December 22, 2015 at 10:10 pm

    Followed the plans exactly and rechecked our measurements 3 times. Table turned out so tall that we’re going to have to get barstools. Pretty disappointed. Is 35 1/2″ correct for the leg height measurement??

    • Shanty2Chic on December 22, 2015 at 11:18 pm

      You must have done something different. My table measures 31″ tall and it is by the plans, exactly. Someone in the comments below built theirs and it measured 33″ and they found their error.

    • Michael Fallon on December 23, 2015 at 6:34 pm

      I lowered mine as well. I took off the top boards on the two legs to bring it down a couple inches. Still stable after a year.

  60. Stephanie Y on December 10, 2015 at 1:51 pm

    Shanty2Chic, So I know a few people have asked this question already, but I have yet to find an answer. Are there any substitions for the Kreg HD Jig? Furthermore, can you use the Kreg HD screws with the Kreg 4 or 5 jigs?
    Also, if anyone had any success with alternative methods I’d love to hear them.

    Thanks in advance.
    -Steph 😉

    • Shanty2Chic on December 10, 2015 at 1:57 pm

      I think I’ve answered this in the comments but you really need to get the HD…. It’s only $35 and you will use it lots! Hope this helps!

  61. gpmic on December 8, 2015 at 2:20 pm

    So I finally got around to building our table…

    • Jennifer Tragesser Smith on July 19, 2017 at 5:52 pm

      Do you have chairs around this table? Do you find them difficult to manage? Thanks!

  62. Trevin on December 6, 2015 at 12:45 pm

    I have bought the 1-1/4″ pocket screws and 2-1/2″ pocket screws, and then it says I need 18 Kreg HD screws, but does not specify a length? Is there something I’m missing about these “Kreg HD” screws?

    • Shanty2Chic on December 6, 2015 at 12:49 pm

      The HD screws are 2 1/2″ long. They are thicker than the regular Kreg screws.

  63. Hazel on November 1, 2015 at 9:35 am

    Can you use something other than the kreg HD screws I cannot find them in stores

    • Shanty2Chic on November 1, 2015 at 9:53 am

      Hi Hazel, I wouldn’t recommend that. Amazon does sell them!

  64. Karly Malone on October 13, 2015 at 1:05 pm

    Hi Shanty2Shic-

    Love the table…we are going to make it for sure once our kitchen remodel is complete…thanks for the plans. We are going for a similar look in terms of flooring and I wondered if you’d be willing to share the flooring that you used in the dining room (first picture)?? Thanks!


  65. Blake on October 6, 2015 at 9:59 am

    What do you say were the alterations to make the table 6′? Also, did you sand just the edges or surfaces as well?

  66. Tarcia on September 25, 2015 at 5:09 pm

    I would like to make this table approximately 6 feet long instead of 8 can I just modify the top and keep the same measurements for the base?

  67. dana on September 9, 2015 at 12:14 pm

    Can someone email the directions for the table please? The link seems to be dead now.

    • Shanty2Chic on September 9, 2015 at 12:20 pm

      The link isn’t dead. It’s the big image that says click to print.

      • dana on September 9, 2015 at 12:29 pm

        When I click that it opens a new page with a black x. When I click the link for the bench that works just fine. Thank you for your help

      • Blake on October 6, 2015 at 5:52 pm

        I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff to build it

  68. DomD on September 8, 2015 at 10:25 pm

    Thanks for the plans! I’m hoping to start this project this weekend. If I’m looking to shorten the length by 8 to 12 inches, can I simply adjust the plank top, side trim and stretcher length accordingly and leave the rest of the plans as is?

  69. Eric & Candice on September 6, 2015 at 12:20 am

    Hubby finished the Restoration Hardware Inspired table today. It is beautiful. However, it is measuring rather tall at 33 inches. We are now trying to figure out what to do about chairs as the standard 18-19 inches chairs may be a bit low. Is anyone else’s measuring tall? Regardless, it is a beautiful and I am so glad we didn’t spend $2K on this look/design. Thank you Shanty 2 Chic!

    • Shanty2Chic on September 9, 2015 at 12:21 pm

      Mine measures 31″ so you may have altered the plans a bit.

      • Eric & Candice on September 9, 2015 at 9:37 pm

        We found our error… well, I think it will still look pretty cool with counter top 24 inch chairs. We are building the bench this weekend… making it a wee bit taller. (Thanks for replying)

  70. Cynthia on August 5, 2015 at 12:53 pm

    We are looking to make this counter height. Aside from making the 4×4’s 6 inches taller and adjusting the 2×4 length, are there any other recommendations?

  71. Dawn Allen on August 4, 2015 at 5:46 pm

    Robert, What stain / brand did you use? Love your table.

  72. David Simpson on July 22, 2015 at 9:55 pm

    On your parts list you call for 16 Kreg hd screws for the 4×4’s. But I don’t see any size or length requirements.

  73. Celeste of Bookish and Belle on July 13, 2015 at 2:25 pm

    This may be a stupid question, but what is the best way to make the top detachable so we can fit it through our narrow doorway when we move eventually? Can I just screw it on without glue and unscrew it and screw it back later without ruining the screw holes? Or should I use bolts instead, and, if so, how would you recommend substituting bolts? Thanks so much for any advice you have on this!

  74. Arianne on June 16, 2015 at 3:32 pm

    We’re in the middle of building this table, and one of the major problems we’re having is with small spaces between the boards – horizontally where the boards aren’t perfectly square, or vertically where the saw cut just a tiny bit too short. Did this happen to you at all? How do you keep it from happening? How do you handle it if it does?

    • Ethan Olson on June 16, 2015 at 8:26 pm

      Arianne, I ran into the same issue when I was building mine. Wood boards are never perfectly square, so there’s bound to be some imperfections along the way. I tried rearranging the order of the boards so that one warped board would just “hug” another board that was warped similarly. Eventually, if you just get the boards that are warped the worst to the ends, then you can more easily wrap the trim boards around the curves since you have a little more play in those boards from them being flipped vertically.

      As far as boards being cut too short, I would just try to stack the boards, clamp them, and cut them all at the same time so they’re the same length.

  75. Ethan Olson on June 16, 2015 at 3:02 pm

    These plans worked great! Here’s my implementation of the table. The only thing I changed was using premium 1×6 pine boards for the top so that there were fewer knots (ended up costing about $70 extra in lumber). Also, I used premium 1×4 boards for the trim around the top so that it’d match (they don’t carry premium boards in a 2×4 size at Lowe’s or Home Depot). Also, I had a tough time finding untreated 4×4 posts because my local Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t keep them in stock. Luckily, an 84 Lumber outside of town had a few in stock.

  76. Liz on June 12, 2015 at 10:30 am

    I love this table and want make sure it will fit in our dining room. What do the dimensions of the table end up being? And what is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the table top? Thanks!

  77. Colby on May 31, 2015 at 12:57 pm

    Found your site and my wife fell in love with this table. Decided to go ahead and make it. Extremely happy with the way it turned out. Thanks so much for the easy to follow plans!

    • Tina on May 4, 2016 at 10:05 am

      Do you remember what stain you used? Love the color!

  78. Whitney Maness on May 24, 2015 at 8:00 am

    My husband and I will be building our table in about a month or so…I was wondering (and sorry if it’s mentioned above or in other comments), but what kind of wood filler do you use? Every one I saw on had reviews that said they would NOT take stain…even if the packaging stated it was “stainable” Thanks!

    • Shanty2Chic on May 24, 2015 at 8:12 am

      Hi Whitney,
      I use either 3M or Elmer’s stainable but it doesn’t take the stain the same way. The places you will need to fill in this table are not noticeable at all so those should be fine. Hope this helps!

  79. Renata Shaw-Marshall on May 15, 2015 at 3:19 pm

    anyone ever made a smaller table like 72″x42″ ?? help and if i would like to move the bottom beam to the middle how would i go about doing that ??

  80. Jose Durangomez on May 11, 2015 at 9:07 am

    Thank you for the awesome plans! My first time making something like this and your breakdown really made it possible. Thank you

    • Michael Wulf on June 2, 2015 at 8:31 pm

      Jose. Great job. Nice smooth lines and looks solid. Absolutely love your stain job! Artists’ work.

      • Jose Durangomez on June 12, 2015 at 2:58 am

        Thanks brother, I actually torched it. I wanted to really darken the sides and transition to the natural color in the center.

        • John Faulkner on April 6, 2017 at 6:28 am

          I love your table also. Can you please provide any tips on the torching process?

          • Jose Durangomez on April 7, 2017 at 3:08 pm

            Well since this was my first time, I’m sure there is better advise out there but I will tell you what I did. I had initially made the table too long for my space so I had cut off about 10″ off one end of the table top. I then used that piece as my practice piece. I learned that it was easier for me to start further away at first to get a feel for how quickly the wood would darken. I started on the outside and would work my way in towards the center board (not wanting to torch the center). I would do a light darken pass from end to center and then repeat, coming up shorter then the last pass with each new pass. Because of the wood species, (common pine) there were definitely parts that darkened quicker than others so instead of going over it again with the big torch, I used a smaller handheld torch to touch up those spots.
            Biggest thing I can tell you is use a practice piece and play with distance, torch settings, and have a smaller torch to touch up. Wire brush lightly and sand after your done. Again, Im just a novice. Good Luck!!

          • John Faulkner on April 10, 2017 at 6:59 am

            Great Thank you, it’s really cool look. I appreciate the advice.

  81. Alex Castaneda on May 10, 2015 at 7:26 pm

    Hi, my husband and father are building me this design for Mother’s Day but seem to have come to a small problem. They are screwing the top boards for the top of the table together and one board has started to split at the end. I can actually see through the split. They don’t think it’s a huge issue but I wanted to see if there was anything we could do to it to make sure our table doesn’t break in half one day lol. I would hate for them to go through all the trouble and then the table breaks in half.
    Thanks for your help!

  82. Valerie on April 27, 2015 at 7:52 pm

    Going to start this table project soon! 🙂
    Is it possible to make the table 8 feet long? By doing so, would there be any issues with the legs? Thanks!

  83. Chelsie on April 27, 2015 at 10:32 am

    How is step 10 done?? I’m confused on how to use the kreg jig on the legs to attach them to the table top??

    • Joseph S Dailey on January 31, 2016 at 6:43 am

      I am having the same problem. Did you figure it out?

      • Shanty2Chic on January 31, 2016 at 8:51 am

        You don’t have to use the pocket holes. I just drove wood screws from the bottom of the legs into the table top.

        • Julie Heaton on March 17, 2016 at 12:16 pm

          How long of screws did you use? Will this table be able to be moved and assembled again without decreasing its sturdiness when it comes to assembling the top to the legs? I would imagine screwing it back in the same hole after reassemble would cause it to not be a tight/sturdy.

  84. David Vige on April 14, 2015 at 1:28 pm

    If I am planning to use 2×12’s instead of 1×6’s for the table top, do you think I could utilize the Kreg HD for all pocket holes to avoid buying another Kreg jig?

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:32 am

      I believe the HD is for anything 2″ and up (which is really 1 1/2″).

      I would try connecting a couple pieces of scrap first to see.

  85. Keith Webster on April 12, 2015 at 7:30 am

    Just wanted to say thank you for shearing the plans for the table I love it here a pic of my table just have one layer of poly so far waiting to dry to put 2 more layers on

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:34 am

      nice change up with the center beam. looks great

    • Nicole on March 17, 2016 at 6:43 pm

      Can you please share how you stained this table? I love the dark base.

      • Keith Webster on March 17, 2016 at 10:03 pm

        Thank you Nicole. The legs are painted black and destressed on the edges the top is stain with dark walnut and 3 coats of wipe on polyurethane

  86. Jeremy on April 9, 2015 at 1:57 pm

    Did you poly the whole table? Or just the table top? Also, did you sand in between layers? Lastly, did you sand after the final layer?


    This is the last step I have to finish and I’m all done!

  87. Keith Webster on March 30, 2015 at 5:26 pm

    just went today and bought all the wood to make the table. Was wondering if anyone had a cut list for the legs of the table thank you

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:32 am

      they’re on the PDF file attached to this site

  88. joe barry on March 29, 2015 at 10:11 am

    How long should this project take to do?

    • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:33 am

      depends on how much time you have lol. It took me a couple months just doing a little bit here are there. You can easily do it in a weekend if you don’t have any interruptions

  89. Cellar_Muse on March 26, 2015 at 10:51 pm

    Finally completed & delivered. The customer and I are really happy with the final result. Put 4 coats of Cabot “midnight” stain/sealer & 3 coats of rustoleum matte polyurethane.

    Thank you for Sharing this Design !

    • Shanty2Chic on March 27, 2015 at 6:12 am

      It’s beautiful and I LOVE the finish! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  90. Chanel Ward on March 6, 2015 at 11:28 am

    What are the final dimensions of this finished table? Height, length, and width?

  91. Nicole Dyan Rapp on March 4, 2015 at 10:14 pm

    Could a Kreg Mini work for the 1×6’s?

    • Jeremy on March 8, 2015 at 7:51 pm

      I think the mini would work for the 1x6s. Much cheaper than the full jig too.

  92. Chelsie on March 4, 2015 at 4:22 pm

    Starting this project next week! I would love to know an alternative to using the Kig HD, I just bought the smaller one to help keep down on cost but I read a comment that the smaller one wouldnt work on the 4×4. Any advice would be helpful!! Thanks 🙂

  93. Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 9:14 pm

    can I use the Kreg mini for the 4x4s ? I have had to purchase many tools for this project anyways so if I can save a few $$ I would rather get the cheaper one.

    This is the one I am referring to:


    • Shanty2Chic on February 11, 2015 at 9:22 pm

      Hey Jeremy,
      Unfortunately you need the HD for the 4×4’s…

      • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 9:42 pm

        Ok thanks. One more question: What if I take the slide out of my K4 ? Can I just clamp that to the 4×4 and do it that way?
        Thanks again.

        • Shanty2Chic on February 11, 2015 at 9:54 pm

          We haven’t tried that. I would try it on some scrap pieces first! Worth a shot 🙂

        • Chelsie on March 4, 2015 at 4:30 pm

          Jeremy how did that turn out for you? Im in the same predicament! Those things are pricey!

          • Jeremy on March 7, 2015 at 2:32 pm

            Well the short answer: it’s easier to buy the other jig.

            Long answer: I messed around with a scrap 4×4 block for about 30 minutes and was able to get the k4 jig block in a spot where the screw came through to an ok spot, but not to the center of the joint, which is what kreg suggests is the best placement. However, the hole wasn’t deep enough because the jig has to be so high on the wood. So after drilling the hole, I had to take the jig off and manually drill even further until I got deep enough to where I thought was good. It’s all trial and error and there’s no real exact way to know how deep is good enough. But the drill bit is surprisingly more fragile than I thought and I broke on me when I was doing manual drilling – just snapped right in half.

            So after about a full hour of messing around with it and breaking my boy, I had enough and ordered the other jig. I did some test holes with the new jig and it gets the hole close to the center of the joint, but not 100% there. It looked close to what I was able to get with my trial and error method. The good thing about the jig is that it came with HD screws and a bigger drill bit to accommodate them.

            If you want to try with the k4 jig, go ahead. But I would recommend getting the other jig as well. That way you’ll be able to use the HD screws (the k4 jig hole isn’t big enough for the HD screw drill bit). And you’ll save a lot of time without having to trial and error it. And you won’t curse nearly as much lol. Good luck!

  94. Matt Kopp on January 16, 2015 at 1:55 pm

    I’ve been checking with Home Depot and Lowes and I have not been able to find 4x4x8′ Pine or whitewood posts. I’ve only been able to find Cedar, Fir or Pressure Treated. Would you recommend using cedar or fir for this or is there somewhere else I should look? I’m going to go to a local lumber store and check there but I have not been able to yet.

    • Jeremy on February 10, 2015 at 5:02 am

      I looked in my whole area and finally found a lowe’s that had it. It was the only lowe’s in the area that even carried it. You may have to call all the stores in your area or go to an actual lumber yard.

    • Emilee Anderson on February 10, 2015 at 6:33 am

      I have called every lumber/home improvement store within 50 miles of me and no one has access to untreated 4×4 pine!

    • Josh Rothman on March 8, 2016 at 7:02 pm

      Home Depot has untreated Douglas Fir 4×4, which is superior to the red pine 4×4 commonly found pressure-treated, as it is much less likely to twist when drying. Fir is second only to yellow pine in strength among easily-available softwoods, and is a whole lot lighter and easier to work with. I’ve found the fir 4x4s to be dry and straight every time I’ve bought them, and surprisingly inexpensive too. Cedar is nice to work with and smells good, but it’s too soft for furniture unless you’re really skilled at joinery. Oh, yeah, one other thing: watch out for splinters when working with fir.

  95. Mike Lopez on January 14, 2015 at 6:02 pm

    Anyone know how to attach the top to the legs? I’m actually making the fancy x table but that one didn’t specify how to attach the top the the legs either

    • Cellar_Muse on March 26, 2015 at 10:54 pm

      The top attaches to the legs via pocket screws.

  96. Victor E on January 9, 2015 at 9:03 am

    gonna have to give this a try this winter. also, i saw a matching wine rack in one of the pics…where are the plans for that?

  97. Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:28 am

    I love this table and have been eyeing it up for some time on your site! Beautiful. I am curious to know how chairs fit in? Does it comfortably fit 2 chairs in the middle between the legs or is it tight?

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:13 pm

      Thanks! Two should fit comfortably. I have a bench in each side with chairs on the end. Bench plans are linked at the top of the post!

  98. john grosse on January 5, 2015 at 12:36 pm

    When i completed building the table, the table top has some flex to it in the corners when you put some weight on it which pushes the other corners up/down. how did you/can you remove the flex? i used a nail gun for practically everything.

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:15 pm

      Hi John,
      I don’t have that issue with mind. I used pocket holes and glue. Maybe this is what is causing it? Did you use glue?

  99. charissa on January 4, 2015 at 9:15 am

    Love this table, had my husband build it. Here’s the problem with it though. Unless you are planning on building the benches to go with it, it’s an impractical table. With a regular chair, it is difficult to get in and out because the X-cross beams block free movement of your legs. Also, it is difficult to space regular chairs under the X-cross beams as is shown in one of the pictures below. Wish I had known this before and that someone had mentioned this issue. Do not want to have a “picnic table” sitting in our dining room, so sadly, I think this table will end up outside after my husband builds the benches. Just wanted to give an honest heads-up to anyone considering this build.

  100. Cory on January 3, 2015 at 7:24 pm

    Hi there! My husband & I just built this but have not yet attached the top to the legs. I can’t seem to find in the directions how to drill the pocket holes when attaching the top– it’s very vague. Any help would be great appreciated!

    • Gale on February 9, 2015 at 2:12 am

      I skipped the Kreg PH and simply drilled two holes from each end top piece 6 in total and used Gold 2 Inch screws. Worked like a charm

  101. Matt Hayward on January 3, 2015 at 1:06 am

    Hello, Quick question… the HD Pocket Holes in the vertical 4×4 legs, do you leave them open since Kreg doesn’t make plugs that big or do you have a tip for hiding them? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:24 pm

      They will be pretty well hidden with the angle pieces but I also filled them with wood filler!

  102. Lauren Norris on December 9, 2014 at 10:02 pm

    We just finished our table and are in love with it! Thank you for providing the plans 🙂

    • Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:20 am

      beautiful! nice job

    • Blake on October 6, 2015 at 5:50 pm

      I’m having trouble find the Kreg HD Screws, is there a specific size? Also, what size on the Brad nails and width on the wood screws? Newby so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff

  103. Michael Fallon on December 4, 2014 at 7:53 am

    Here are my pics. Went 8′. Noticing my top planks are pulling away from the 2×4 frame. Must not have been completely dry. Will likely need to fill in a bit with wood filler once it settles. Luckily my finish is already a bit “distressed” (not on purpose). Very happy with the results though.

    • Guest on December 4, 2014 at 7:55 am


      • Jennifer Tragesser Smith on July 19, 2017 at 5:53 pm

        Do the chairs around the table work very well with the base?

  104. Kara on December 3, 2014 at 9:58 am

    How big is the final product of this table? I am looking for a table that is 3×6 and am hoping that this is the approximate size of this table?

    • Robert Zamaro on January 7, 2015 at 9:20 am

      The exact size of this table is W: 3′ 5 1/2″ x L: 7′ 3″ H: 2′ 7 1/4″. This is according to the plans. Hope this helped. 🙂

  105. Brandi Pifer on November 30, 2014 at 4:07 pm

    Would this table be okay painted?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 30, 2014 at 4:10 pm

      Yes 🙂 just make sure to put a poly on it!

  106. Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:16 am

    Could I use untreated Douglas Fir for the 4x4s? It’s the only untreated 4x4s I can find at HD…

    • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 8:53 pm

      the stain may not take the same. for some reason untreated pine 4x4s are really hard to find! I had to call around for a while before I found some and they weren’t in the best shape — looked decent after a good sanding with 60 grit sandpaper though

  107. Bethany Bonell on November 16, 2014 at 10:23 am

    What are the dimensions of the finished table?

  108. Robert Zamaro on November 11, 2014 at 2:05 pm

    I don’t know why but I thought I pulled the plans from Ana’s website and it was your website… :0 haha However I wanted to say thank you for the plans and inspiration. I finally finished my table.

    • Shanty2Chic on November 11, 2014 at 2:41 pm

      Thanks Robert! These are not Ana’s plans they are ours 🙂

    • Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:03 am

      Hi Robert! Lovely table… could you share what you did differently? The ends of the table appear to have a board going perpendicular… was this to extend the length or just a bit of a personal twist?

      • Robert Zamaro on November 22, 2014 at 9:56 am

        Hey Jarmar 🙂 Well there are a few things I did differently. Instead of using 1×6’s I used 2×6’s because I wanted my table top to be a bit more solid. Just my personal preference really. As you can see the table top is seamless, I ripped down an 1/8” on both sides of the 2×6’s so when I put them together they would be seamless and not have that rounded edge in-between each board. I did the same thing with the 2×4’s that go around the table. When it was all together I came back with a router and gave it that rounded edge all the way around. So… I have a small dining area and we needed the table 5’ not 7’ 3” which is what the plans call for. However my girlfriend said hey can we make it bigger because its smaller than I thought. :0 < “ME” Thats where I ended up adding the 2×6’s that you see running perpendicular to make it almost a foot longer. If you need help with anything let me know 🙂 Thank you Jarmar.

        • Towanda on December 7, 2014 at 8:57 am

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?


        • Towanda on December 7, 2014 at 9:03 am

          I Love the finish on your version also. I’ve been wanting to build this table and seeing yours I think I’m actually going to attempt it! Could you share in more detail how you modified your plans?


        • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:05 pm

          What I can not figure out is where the “angled braces” are screwed from or to? It is not noted in the plans and in the pictures you do not see any screws. Not sure what I am missing?

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:12 pm

            Drill from the bottom of the 2×6 part of the pedestal legs into the bottom of the table with 2″ wood screws.

          • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:17 pm

            maybe I should have been more specific.. here is an updated image indicating where I am not clear

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:22 pm

            Oh shoot! Sorry about that. I actually used my nailer and wood glue here but if you don’t have a nailer, you drill from the top of the angled piece into the leg at an angle (towards the ground). Then just apply wood filler to cover the screw hole. Does this help?

          • Adam Tate on January 6, 2015 at 5:26 pm

            Thank you for the suggestions and update. Others must have figured out a way but that maybe helpful to add to the plans for others who choose to take on the project. I was just scratching my head for a bit. Thanks again!

          • Shanty2Chic on January 6, 2015 at 5:32 pm

            So sorry! I’ll make a quick edit. Thank you!!

        • Jeremy on February 9, 2015 at 7:42 pm


          I am going to be making this table at a length of 6′ so it should be pretty similar to yours, with the exception of the perpendicular boards on the ends.

          I have 2 questions: 1) What is the length of the main 4×4 that runs between the legs on the floor?

          2) What are the lengths of the 4x4s on the ends of the legs (the ones that run the same direction as the 4×4 from question 1)?

          Thanks so much!

          • Robert Zamaro on February 9, 2015 at 8:08 pm


            Hey so the middle 4×4 is 21 3/4″ and the ends are still 14 3/4″ from the original plans. I kept it that way so when I built the benches my tables legs would be off set, so therefore I could push my benches in. Some people I guess had a problem with the benches lining exactly up with the tables legs. I always look over things before I start building, just like “measure twice cut once”. haha Good luck and if you have anymore questions, ask away!

          • Jeremy on February 10, 2015 at 5:03 am

            Awesome, thanks so much; I really appreciate it!

          • Jeremy on April 18, 2015 at 10:18 pm

            I have finished the table and am going to start on the bench.

            Seeing as our tables are the same size, my bench will have to be smaller than the plans on this site.

            How long was your bench?


          • Eric on July 20, 2017 at 1:00 pm

            Hey Robert,

            Where did you find 4x4s that were pine and not treated wood?



          • Robert Zamaro on July 21, 2017 at 4:57 am

            Hey Eric, so what I did was get two 2×4’s since true untreated 4×4 are hard to find in my area. I ripped an 1/8″ off the edges on my 2×4 to get rid of the round over and glued the two together to make a 4×4. However it’s also not a true 4×4 but it worked for me. So in the end it was a 3 1/4″X3″ (aka 4×4) haha. If you need any additional help or tips. You can reach me at I would be more than happy to help. Knowledge is free. Cheers. Rob

        • Jeremy on March 8, 2015 at 7:50 pm

          Hey Robert,

          I tried zooming your picture. Did you use pocket holes
          To attach the vertical 4x4sto the base?


    • Anne Curwen on January 6, 2015 at 8:18 am

      beautiful table! I like the idea of ripping down 1/8 on the 2x6s to give it a smooth surface on top. well done!

    • Jose Durangomez on March 30, 2015 at 12:34 am

      Hello Robert,
      Great Job! Really like the finish you chose. Do you remember the name of the finish?
      Thank you for posting

    • Shawn on May 24, 2015 at 3:16 pm

      What type poly did you use?

      • Robert Zamaro on May 25, 2015 at 6:55 am

        Shawn, I just used minwax semi gloss poly and used about 8 layers. Sanding inbetween each layer.

    • Trisha Elisabeth on July 23, 2016 at 7:47 am

      What stain did you use for this table Robert? It’s beautiful!

    • Jesse Taylor on October 18, 2016 at 7:26 pm

      I plan on doing this table like you have it as well. it looks amazing side note, you dont have the plans for the side table behind it? do it?

    • Andrew on April 23, 2017 at 8:00 pm

      Hey Robert,

      Nice work here! Quick question regarding the 1/8th” rip on either side of your 2x6s. Did you find that the table wasn’t’t wide enough then? Did you compensate at all for that loss being that the plan doesn’t call for that? Doing the math the table would only be 39 1/4 wide then?


  109. JK John Hitman on November 11, 2014 at 12:08 am

    So I’m looking at trying this build but the only problem I see is where do you get the 4x4s all the lumber places here only sell treated 4x4s. This is in Arkansas.

    • Robert Zamaro on November 11, 2014 at 7:31 pm

      I had the same problem. I live in Richmond, VA. I could have went to the mill but there was no way I was paying tons of money for something that will not affect my overall look using 2×4’s. I actually used 2×6’s, glued it together and then clamped them. The next day after it was done drying, I ripped it down using my table saw. I wanted my edges to be seamless which is why I went that route. I didn’t want to put to two 2×4’s together and have that groove in in-between. However one side was the actual width of a 4×4 and the other was 3”. I made it work though and it came out great. I posted a photo earlier if you want to see the look of it. Cheers and have fun with your new project.

      • Shanty2Chic on November 11, 2014 at 7:46 pm

        Great tip, Robert!!!

      • Emilee Anderson on February 10, 2015 at 6:46 am

        Thanks for this comment Robert! I’ve been trying to figure out how I will make this work without 4x4s as they are unavailable in my area as well. I think this is what I’ll end up doing.

  110. Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 10:54 am

    Can the bevel cuts on the 4×4’s be made with a 10in compound saw?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2014 at 11:13 am

      No, a 12″ is needed for that.

      • Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 11:15 am


      • Jarmar Dupas on November 10, 2014 at 6:10 pm

        Any word on Ryobi releasing a 12″ anytime in the near future!?

        • Shanty2Chic on November 10, 2014 at 6:19 pm

          Not sure about that but we use the Ridgid 12″ sliding compound miter saw for jobs like this and love them 🙂

    • Ryan on December 23, 2015 at 9:23 am

      Can use a 10″ if you flip the 4×4 to finish the cut.

      • Shanty2Chic on December 23, 2015 at 9:30 am

        Yes, you can flip to cut the 4×4 with a 10″ blade.

  111. Michael Fallon on November 10, 2014 at 10:34 am

    I live in NJ, and could only find untreated 2×4 and 4×4 in Douglas Fir. I was able to find a place to custom mill the pine into 2×4, and they glued it to make 4×4. It tripled the cost of wood for me, but it was worth it. You could glue 1x4s together if you are careful.

    • Jarmar Dupas on November 17, 2014 at 11:06 am

      Why didn’t you just go with Douglas Fir? Is Douglas Fir not recommended for table applications?

      • Michael Fallon on November 17, 2014 at 12:55 pm

        Good question. I am by no means an expert, but I read that Doug Fir does not take stain as well as Pine. I considered making the top pine (1x4s), but the 2×4 border would show, and could look discolored, and I was not planning on distressing it. In hindsight, I probably would have tried it, and saved the money. I would have certainly tried it on the 4x4s as they receive the light differently anyhow. Certainly welcome others advice on using Doug Fir.

  112. Shannon on November 6, 2014 at 6:55 pm

    What type of nail gun do you use to build a table?

    • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 8:32 am

      We would use the 16 gauge nailer and wood glue if you choose to build with a nailer. Hope this helps 🙂

  113. Justin on November 4, 2014 at 4:40 pm


    What were the foot pads dimensions?


    • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 8:32 am

      Hey Justin,
      The foot pads are the width of the 4×4 so 3.5″ x 3.5″.

      • Justin on November 7, 2014 at 11:45 am

        Thanks, and about how thick??

        • Shanty2Chic on November 7, 2014 at 12:31 pm

          1x 🙂 just use 1×4 and cut them at 3.5″

  114. Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:16 pm

    Did I read that comment correctly? It only took you one weekend? All the cuts? all the drilling pocket holes and then screws, putting it all together, all the sanding and staining? all in one weekend?? Really??? How many of you were there?

    • Shanty2Chic on October 27, 2014 at 3:18 pm

      Just me:) one weekend and in between baseball games 😉

      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:22 pm


      • Glynnis Anderson-Smith on October 27, 2014 at 3:23 pm

        the costs you list – does that cover sandpaper, paint brushes etc. or is that just wood?

      • Kristin on April 23, 2015 at 10:13 pm

        Do you have a lot of experience. I really want to make this table and the benches. I can build furniture that has directions and it is more assembly. Should I walk away?!

  115. Richelle K on September 24, 2014 at 12:30 pm

    I’m about to start on this project this weekend, I’ve bought the wood and am ready to go! I was wondering about potentially mitering the corners of the frame around the top, similar to how you did the outdoor table on sawhorses. Since you can’t use the jig right on the corners, is your only option to just reinforce it all the way around with the top panels? Thank you so much for all you do!

    • Jeremy on February 11, 2015 at 8:55 pm

      I am doing it this way right now. I used pocket screws all the way around like the plans suggest. In the mitered corners I use wood glue and a nailer (2″ brad nails) to keep the joint together. Only time will tell if the joints come apart or not lol

  116. Justin Camblin on September 16, 2014 at 6:27 am

    Do the pocket holes allow for contraction and expansion of the table top?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 16, 2014 at 6:37 am

      Not really… If you need to do that, then I would assemble the table top differently. I have planked all of my tables (indoor) this way and haven’t had any issues though. Hope this helps! Also, we build with white wood boards which do not swell and warp as much as other species.

  117. Vanessa Williams on September 9, 2014 at 10:49 pm

    I just started this project this evening and I’m very excited! I know everyone works at their own pace but I was curious how long it took you from first cut to stain? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:52 am

      Awesome!!! I would say to plan on a weekend worth of work 🙂

      • Vanessa Williams on September 14, 2014 at 1:24 pm

        Hi. I finished the table would like to send pic if its allowed. Thanks

        • Vanessa Williams on September 14, 2014 at 1:46 pm

          Working on benches now!

          • Shanty2Chic on September 16, 2014 at 6:39 am

            Wow!!!! We love it Vanessa!!!! Thank you for sharing 🙂

  118. Michael Fallon on September 8, 2014 at 9:51 am

    Certainly going to try this. I am going to keep it at 96″, do you think I can leave the base is? I imagine it should be enough to support the longer top.

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:52 am

      Yes Michael! I think that would be plenty! If you are concerned, you could add a few inches to the base!

  119. Lina Beers on September 5, 2014 at 11:39 am

    are there any plans available for the light fixture above the table?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:53 am

      Hi Lina,
      There is a link to the light fixture at the end of the post. I purchased it 🙂

  120. John Hack on September 3, 2014 at 7:13 pm

    So, I just finished this project. First off, thanks for the plans and pics, there’s no way I could have done this on my own. It’s looks gorgeous (if I do say so myself). The only issue is that it’s a bit tall. Mine is coming out at 32.5″, and that feels pretty high with the chairs we have. How high did yours come out?

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:55 am

      Hi John!
      Just measured and mine is 31″ high…. Wonder what you did different?

      • John Hack on September 10, 2014 at 6:03 am

        OK, thanks. I have no idea what I could have done differently. Regardless, at this point, I’m just going to remove the 3rd layer from the top of each base component. That will drop me down to 30 3/4″, which should feel much more normal, and really shouldn’t affect the aesthetic. Thanks again for all the help.

        • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 6:10 am

          Great idea!!! Send us some pics of it 🙂

          • John Hack on September 11, 2014 at 6:45 pm

            Ok, so now I’m officially done and I couldn’t be happier. I’ll try to attach some pics below. Aside from height difference which wasn’t planned, I did two other things differently. First I used poplar instead of pine. Second, I used a solid stain and didn’t attempt to distress the wood. Hope you like it! Thanks again!
            PS Ignore the rest of the room, this was step one for putting together a dining room.

          • Shanty2Chic on September 11, 2014 at 6:50 pm

            Way to go John!!! Love the finish on it!!!! 🙂 thanks so much for sharing!

          • Michael Fallon on November 10, 2014 at 10:16 am

            Hi John, looks great. Mine as well came out tall, so I will also remove that top layer on the base. Just curious, what did you use for the poly topcoat? Is that semi-gloss?

  121. Steve on August 27, 2014 at 12:18 pm

    So I was just attaching the 1×6’s together and the screw end popped through the top side of the wood. I thought I had all the adjustments set on the kreg jig. Could I have just tightened the screw in too much? It isn’t that noticeable so I may just still use the board.

    Also, does anyone have a method for attaching the 4×4’s without using the kreg hd?

    • Shanty2Chic on August 27, 2014 at 12:20 pm

      Hey Steve! That stinks!! I have done that a couple of times and I either drilled the pocket hole too deep or put my screw in at a weird angle. I would try backing off the depth a bit. Hope this helps!

      • Steve on August 27, 2014 at 12:28 pm

        Thanks I’ll try it!

  122. Debbra Tackett on August 25, 2014 at 12:32 pm

    but the light fixture above the table w/ the candles… did you make that?? I love it!

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:56 am

      thank you! I purchased it from Ballard! There’s a link at the end of this post 🙂

  123. rjcross on August 25, 2014 at 12:01 pm

    I have a desk that is all done minus the seal…
    I cannot decide between satin or matte finish!
    Do you have any pros and cons to either?
    And Ive never used rustoleums satin poly… is it shiny?
    The minwax satin was way more shiny than Id thought it would be for “satin”

    • Shanty2Chic on September 10, 2014 at 5:56 am

      Awesome!!! We prefer matte but there isn’t a huge difference between the two. You won’t see a sheen at all on the matte…

  124. KPresley on August 6, 2014 at 9:55 am

    Anyway you could give me the plans for this table but for a 6ft table? I want to build this table for my breakfast nook and 96 inches is too long for my space. Thanks!

  125. digital_andrew on August 5, 2014 at 7:43 pm

    Hey I love the design but I was wanting to use 2X12’s instead of 1X6’s on the top, do you think the legs can adequately support nearly doubling the weight?? Thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on August 5, 2014 at 8:32 pm

      Hi Andrew. I would think so but I haven’t personally tried it!

  126. Lane Cook on July 20, 2014 at 7:41 am

    Why not glue the table top along with the pocket screws? It would seem like the wood would shrink and cause cracks in between the places where the screws are over time.

    • Shanty2Chic on July 20, 2014 at 7:48 am

      You can do that if you would like 🙂

  127. daphness84 on July 5, 2014 at 1:29 pm

    What are the finished dimensions of this table?

  128. Brooke on July 2, 2014 at 5:56 am

    Hi, can you tells what kind of floors are in your house? I love them!

    • Shanty2Chic on July 5, 2014 at 10:15 am

      Thank you Brooke! I shared a link to the flooring at the end of this post 🙂

  129. J Sucherman on June 30, 2014 at 5:55 pm

    How do you clamp down the pocket hole joints in the MIDDLE of the table? The clamps don’t reach! Please help thanks

    • Shanty2Chic on June 30, 2014 at 9:40 pm

      Hey josh! I work from one end to the other so I’m adding 1 board at a time and clamping that board… Make sense? Then it only has to reach the width of 1 board…

      • joshmade on July 1, 2014 at 8:47 pm

        Yes, thanks so much, u gals are great

  130. Tyi Duncan-Whitcomb on June 29, 2014 at 8:25 pm

    What are the finished dimnesions?

  131. RT on June 24, 2014 at 2:01 pm

    Hi Guys, I absolutely love what you guys are doing here! I am having trouble finding untreated pine or whitewood 4x4x8 posts in my area. Did you find them at your local home depot? Thanks and cannot wait to get started on this project!

    • nate on July 3, 2014 at 12:49 pm

      Keep searching. They are out there. Lowes and Home Depot stopped selling untreated 4X4’s for some unknown reason. Check your local lumber yards

    • Shanty2Chic on July 5, 2014 at 10:18 am

      We do find them at Home Depot but try a local lumber yard too!

  132. Sharde T on June 2, 2014 at 8:33 am

    Will the Kreg Jig K4 work for this project?

    • Shanty2Chic on June 2, 2014 at 9:01 am


      • Sharde T on June 4, 2014 at 10:54 pm

        Great! What about for making the pocket holes in the 4x4s? This is the first time I’m using my Kreg Jig K4, but I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and the measurements don’t look like they aren’t made for a 4×4. Thanks in advance!

      • Chris W on June 8, 2014 at 12:36 pm

        I was wondering the same thing. I don’t have the Kreg Jig HD and was wondering I can use the regular Kreg jig or if there is a different way to join the 4×4’s.

        • Jake Sells on September 25, 2017 at 4:42 pm

          You could use and make dowels

      • Natalie Martin on July 23, 2014 at 10:32 am

        Could you explain how to use the K4 on the 4x4s? I can’t find anything on the kreg site that helps! Thanks!!

        • Shanty2Chic on August 5, 2014 at 8:33 pm

          Hi Natalie,
          The 4×4’s need the Kreg HD… The HD drills pocket holes in 2×4 and 4×4

          • Chelsie on March 4, 2015 at 4:28 pm

            Is there a way to do this project without the Kreg HD??

  133. jrob2287 on June 1, 2014 at 2:03 pm

    I can’t for the life of me figure out how you’ve added the angled bracing. Are the any better photos of this spot?

    • Shanty2Chic on June 1, 2014 at 2:06 pm

      Hey! I used 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue but for those without a brad nailer, counter sinking screws is the best way!

      • jrob2287 on June 1, 2014 at 2:07 pm


        • Guest on June 27, 2014 at 8:41 am

          Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start.

      • Doug Beach on June 27, 2014 at 9:53 am

        Sorry, but I’m still not following where/how you attach the angled bracing. I downloaded the pdf of your plans and step 8 describes this part. I didn’t understand where you pre-drill? In your pictures above, I couldn’t see any screws to get an idea of where you start

        • Shanty2Chic on June 27, 2014 at 9:55 am

          I used my brad nailer and wood glue. We suggested wood screws for those that don’t own nailers but 1/4″ brad nails will work and may be easier. If you are going to use wood acres, just pre drill at an angle into the leg and foot where the joints touch. Hope this helps!

  134. pastorkevinwright on May 27, 2014 at 10:55 pm

    Hey ladies. Just curious, did you use poly on the entire table or just the top?

    • Shanty2Chic on May 28, 2014 at 6:13 am

      Hey there! I just poly the table top. It’s probably best to poly the entire thing with at least one coat 🙂 your table looks awesome!!!

  135. Casey H on May 24, 2014 at 3:23 pm

    I have a delimma…in step 10 where you drill the keg jog holes to attach the table top…I’m not quite sure how to do that since the layers are already assembled. I may be reading it wrong, and there weren’t any pics of that step:/. Any guidance would be great. Thanks so much for the wonderful plans!

    • Shanty2Chic on May 24, 2014 at 4:05 pm

      Hi Casey! You can use your Kreg Jig as the plans show (just take the block out of the Kreg Jig and clamp it) or just drill 2″ wood screws from under the the longest layer into the table top (that’s what I did so I didn’t have to bring as many tools in the house) 😉 hope this helps!

      • Casey H on May 25, 2014 at 11:35 am

        Thanks for clearing that up. We’re so excited about this table:)

        • Shanty2Chic on May 28, 2014 at 6:14 am

          Awesome!!! Happy to help:) share pictures with us once you are done, please 🙂

  136. Starsky on May 21, 2014 at 3:53 pm

    The table looks great! Thanks for the plans. The only question I had
    is how did you securely attach the 45˚ leg supports to the actual leg
    for the table? I’ve been trying to clamp the pieces to be able
    to counter screw them together but the pieces keep slipping. Any advice
    on how to keep the two pieces together?

    • Shanty2Chic on May 21, 2014 at 4:03 pm

      That’s awesome to hear! I actually just used wood glue and nailed them with my Airstrike. It’s not as secure but once the glue dries it’s fine!

  137. Adam Roman on May 19, 2014 at 5:51 pm

    The table came out great! Curious did you use pocket holes to attach the trim?

  138. Erin @ How to Nest for Less on May 16, 2014 at 11:43 am

    Simply gorgeous!!

  139. Lindsay Rice on May 13, 2014 at 8:24 pm

    Would the legs support this if we made the top 6’x6′? you are so talented!!

    • Shanty2Chic on May 24, 2014 at 4:07 pm

      Thank you Lindsay! They should work fine! I would adjust the width though to accommodate the added width of the table top 🙂

  140. Jennifer Alison on May 9, 2014 at 10:01 pm

    Can you make this a 6 foot table? Would anything besides the top need modification??

    • Shanty2Chic on May 24, 2014 at 4:07 pm

      Just adjust the table top and stretcher 🙂

  141. Janny on May 9, 2014 at 4:55 pm

    Love the table and the cart and………. Yep going to give one of these projects a try !

  142. Lynn Cutler on May 9, 2014 at 2:20 pm

    I love how intricate these legs look, even though the build doesn’t look too complicated. I am planning to build a dining table this spring and have been admiring all your plans for a while now. Since we have 8 people in our family, and often have company, I’d like to seat about 10 at our table. Which do you think would be the best plan to make a really big table? Which leg formation is most comfortable for those sitting on the ends?

    • Shanty2Chic on May 24, 2014 at 4:08 pm

      Hi Lynn! You could have 10 here with seats
      At the ends. I have a parsons chair at each end and it’s great 🙂

  143. astrollthrulife on May 9, 2014 at 1:59 pm

    Your table is fabulous. I love, love, love it. Wow, I am impressed.

  144. ini99001 on May 9, 2014 at 10:43 am

    Ashley, what did you use after you stained the table for water spills?

    • ini99001 on May 9, 2014 at 1:17 pm

      Thanks for the info, I don’t know if I missed it the first time around looking at your tutorial.
      Lovely table btw!

      • Shanty2Chic on May 9, 2014 at 1:26 pm

        Just added it! Sorry for the confusion:) thank you!

    • Shanty2Chic on May 9, 2014 at 1:26 pm

      So sorry! I forgot to add that to the post 🙂

  145. Lori on May 9, 2014 at 10:29 am

    Gorgeous piece. You sure do have a lot of tables… are those all in your own house?

    • Shanty2Chic on May 9, 2014 at 1:25 pm

      Thank you Lori! We both have one outside and inside and we give sell our old ones when it’s time to update 🙂

  146. Cassie Thompson on May 9, 2014 at 9:46 am

    Love it! So you guys are making all your own plans now? I am always amazed to see how everything comes together – I could never do the math involved!

    • Shanty2Chic on May 9, 2014 at 9:51 am

      Thank you Cassie:)

      • Holly on December 27, 2017 at 12:19 pm

        does anyone have the plans/dimensions for this table as a 6 vs 8 person table? Our neighbors love our table and want the same but need it slightly smaller

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