This DIY Kitchen Island might be one of our favorite builds yet! Not only is it one of our favorites, it’s also one of the most special builds! Our producers/friends have been watching us build pieces for others, over the last 3 years, but now it’s their turn!
They recently purchased and renovated this 1970’s ranch style house.
The transformed it into a big, beautiful, open home now that is just begging for some Shanty furniture!
That’s where we come in! We are going to fill their big, beautiful, open home with custom furniture AND we are sharing the free plans and how-to videos with all of you! So, the first order of business was tackling their kitchen! They envisioned a chunky 8.5′ kitchen island and that’s exactly what we gave them!
Grab a cup of coffee and come watch us build this 8.5′ DIY Kitchen Island! Just click HERE or the video below to watch!
How amazing is this piece?! We officially want one for each of our kitchens 😉
The show stopper in this island is the massive 6″ turned legs – how amazing are they?!
You can find them from Osborne Wood Company HERE! We used the knotty pine. This is where most of the cost comes from in this island. If you are looking to build a more budget friendly island, you can definitely use a thinner turned leg or build the island with only 4 legs. Total cost of this piece was about $1,000, which is AMAZING for a giant custom island like this one!
We used our table saw to rip the rounded edges off of the planks. You can see how we do this in our how-to video HERE! Refer to the printable plans to get the exact width that we ripped each board to!
After ripping the boards, we cut the table top planks and used our Kreg Jig to drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends of every board sand on one side of 6 of the boards. You can find our favorite Kreg Jig model HERE. And, don’t forget to watch our How to Use a Kreg Jig video HERE!
Once the planks were attached, we measured and cut for the breadboards. We attached the breadboards to the planks with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Next, we cut the bottom, front and back apron pieces to size and drilled 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws at both ends of each piece. We centered them on the bottom block of the legs and attached them wit 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.
We cut the bottom side apron pieces to size and drilled 1 1/2″ pocket holes in the ends of each piece. We centered them on the bottom block of the end legs and attached them to one leg base assembly, and then the other, with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.
Next, we cut the bottom support pieces to size and drilled 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends of each piece. We spaced them out evenly and attached them to the side aprons with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue, 1/2″ from the top of the apron pieces.
We cut the bottom, center support to size and drilled 1 1/2″ pocket holes at each end. We centered it on the bottom blocks of the center legs and attached it with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Make sure it is level with the other support pieces.
Once the bottom supports were attached, we cut the hardwood plywood shelf pieces to size and attached them to the supports and the apron pieces with 1 1/4″ brad nails and wood glue.
If you don’t want to use wood filler to fill the gaps around the leg notches, you can use 1 1/4″ lattice to cover the gaps. Just measure and cut the trim as you go. Center the trim over the seams and attach it with 5/8″ pin nails and wood glue.
Next step was to add the top apron pieces. We cut the front and back apron pieces first and drilled 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends of each piece. We centered them on the top block of the legs and attached them with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. The top of the aprons should be flush with the top of the legs.
Cut the top, side apron pieces to size and drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends of each piece. Center them up on the top block of the legs, the same way as the previous step.
Next, cut the top support pieces to size and drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes at both ends and one edge of each piece. Spread them out evenly and attach them to the top, from and back aprons with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. The top of the supports should be flush with the top of the aprons.
Finally, Center the planked top over the island base. Attach the top to the base with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, from the supports and aprons, into the bottom of the planked top. The top should overhang each leg by 3/4″.
How amazing is this?!
We can’t wait for you to see all of the other pieces that we are building for their new home! Make sure to subscribe to our Youtube channel HERE so you don’t miss anything!
More info on the items in this space:
Farmhouse Sink: HERE
Counter Top: Crystal Fantasy Granite
Backsplash Tile: The Tile Shop
White Dishes: AtHome
Flooring: Floor and Decor
Paint on Walls: Pure White by Sherwin Williams
Paint on Doors:
Island Legs: HERE
Thanks so much for stopping by!