We get so many emails and messages asking what tools and projects someone needs to start a workshop. One of the first pieces we always suggest building is a good workbench, and this DIY rolling workbench is a great place to begin.
It gives you a huge work surface, plenty of open storage underneath, and casters so you can move it around the shop when needed. You can build the entire bench with the three basic tools we recommend for a beginner workshop: a drill, a miter saw, and a Kreg Jig.

Table of Contents
Why We Love This DIY Rolling Workbench
We designed this workbench to be practical, affordable, and simple enough for a newer builder to tackle.
- It only requires three basic woodworking tools.
- The large top gives you plenty of room for building and assembling projects.
- The open bottom shelf adds easy-to-reach storage.
- Casters make the bench mobile.
- You can leave the wood unfinished or add paint, stain, or a protective finish.
- The free printable plans are included below.
If this workbench looks familiar, you may have seen versions of it in our own shops. Whitney has this full-size workbench, and Ashley built a narrower version for her shop. You can see the narrow workbench version HERE.
We built this one for our friends’ garage after they renovated a 1970s ranch house. We were also building several furniture pieces for their renovation and needed a good work surface in the garage, so this build was a win-win!

Watch Us Build the Workbench
Come watch just how easy this beast is to build! Just click the Play button in the box below to watch!
You can find the free printable plans and How-To Card at the bottom of this post.
Key Supplies
The full lumber list and cut measurements are included in the free plans below. These are the main hardware and assembly supplies we used for the build.
- 1 1/4-inch brad nails: We used these to attach the plywood shelf and workbench top. You can use 1 1/4-inch wood screws instead if you don’t have a nailer.
- 4 casters: The casters make it much easier to move this large workbench around the shop. You can find them HERE!.
- Wood glue: We use wood glue at the joints along with the screws for a stronger assembly. You can find our favorite Glue Bot HERE!.
- 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws: We used these to assemble the frames and leg pieces.
- 2 1/2″ wood screws: These attach the legs, foot pads, and casters.
Tools
- Drill
- Miter Saw
- Kreg Jig – You can find our favorite model HERE!
How to Build a DIY Workbench
The complete printable plans and How-To Card are below, but we’ll walk you through the assembly first.
Make all of the cuts according to the plans before you begin assembling the workbench.
Build the Workbench Frames
Drill the Pocket Holes
After making all of the cuts, we used our Kreg Jig to drill 1 1/2-inch pocket holes into the short frame pieces. You can find our favorite Kreg Jig model HERE.
Make sure the pocket holes are positioned where they will face the inside of the workbench once the frames are assembled.

Assemble the Top and Bottom Frames
The first step in the assembly is building the top and bottom frames. The top frame is larger than the bottom frame, but both are assembled using the same method.
Attach the short frame pieces to the long frame pieces with 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws and wood glue.
Check each frame for square before fully tightening the screws. This will make attaching the legs and plywood pieces much easier later.

Here is one of the assembled frames.

Build and Attach the Legs
Assemble the Legs
Drill 1 1/2-inch pocket holes into one side of each short leg piece.
Attach the short leg pieces to the long leg pieces with 2 1/2-inch pocket-hole screws and wood glue.

Attach the Legs to the Frames
Position the legs between the top and bottom frames.
Attach the legs to the frames with 2 1/2-inch wood screws and wood glue.
Take a minute to check that the legs are straight and that the frames are still square before driving all of the screws.

Add the Foot Pads
Flip the workbench upside down.
Cut the foot pads to size according to the plans. Attach them to the bottom of the workbench with 2 1/2-inch wood screws and wood glue.
The foot pads give the casters a solid surface for attachment and help distribute the weight at each corner.

Attach the Casters
Once the foot pads are attached, position one caster on each pad.
Attach the casters with 2 1/2-inch wood screws and washers.
Make sure each caster is sitting flat and securely attached before turning the workbench back over. This bench is large, so an extra set of hands is helpful when flipping it.

Install the Bottom Shelf
Flip the workbench upright and lay the bottom plywood shelf in place.
We used our Ryobi 18-volt AirStrike Nailer with 1 1/4-inch brad nails and wood glue to attach the shelf to the bottom frame.
If you don’t have a nailer, you can attach the shelf with 1 1/4-inch wood screws instead.
Before fastening the shelf, check that it is sitting flat against the frame and that the edges line up evenly.

Attach the Workbench Top
Position the top plywood piece over the upper frame.
Attach the top using the same method as the shelf. We used wood glue and 1 1/4-inch brad nails, but 1 1/4-inch wood screws can also be used if you don’t have a nailer.
Make sure the top is positioned correctly before attaching it around the frame.

And that was it!
At this point, you can leave the workbench unfinished or add the finish of your choice. Either way, it is ready for building.

What do you think?

Expert Tips
A few simple checks during assembly will help the finished bench sit straight and roll smoothly.
- Check both frames for square before attaching the legs.
- Keep the pocket holes facing the inside whenever possible so they are less visible.
- Use wood glue along with the screws at the frame and leg joints.
- Make sure the caster pads sit flat against the bottom of the legs.
- Check that all four casters touch the floor evenly before loading the shelf.
- Ask someone to help when flipping the assembled workbench. It gets heavy once the frames and legs are connected.
Ways to Customize the Workbench
This is a simple design, so it can easily be finished to work with your shop.
- Paint the frame and leave the plywood top natural.
- Stain the entire workbench and add a clear protective coat.
- Add storage bins or toolboxes to the open bottom shelf.
- Use locking casters if you want the bench to stay firmly in place while you work.
- Build the narrower version if you are working with a smaller shop or garage.
- Any changes to the overall length, width, or height will require adjustments to the cut list and possibly the frame supports.

Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. We used a Ryobi 18-volt AirStrike Nailer with 1 1/4-inch brad nails to attach the shelf and top, but you can use 1 1/4-inch wood screws instead.
The original build only requires a drill, miter saw, and Kreg Jig. Check the free plans for the plywood dimensions and ask your hardware store whether they can cut the larger plywood pieces for you if needed.
Yes. You can leave it unfinished, paint it, stain it, or add a protective clear coat. Let each coat dry completely according to the finish manufacturer’s directions before using the bench.
No, but they make this large workbench much easier to move around the shop. If you leave them off, the finished bench height and the way the legs contact the floor will change, so account for that before building.
Yes. Ashley built a narrower version for her shop, which you can see HERE. Changing the dimensions will require an adjusted cut list and frame measurements.
More Workshop Projects
Once you have your workbench built, you can keep setting up your shop with a few of our other workbench designs. Our DIY portable folding workbench is another great option when you need a large mobile workspace, and our miter saw workbench gives your saw a dedicated home with plenty of room to support longer boards. For a smaller garage or shop, you can also check out Ashley’s narrow workbench version HERE.
We love how much usable workspace and storage this build adds to a garage or shop. It is a straightforward project, but it creates a solid home base for so many future furniture builds.
Thanks so much for stopping by! Share a photo when you finish yours and tag us on Instagram at @Shanty2Chic or use #shanty2chic so we can see it. You can also leave any questions below and rate the project in the How-To Card.
Happy Building!
🛠️ Printable Tutorial

DIY Rolling Workbench
Supplies
- 2 2x6x8 Pine or Framing Lumber
- 7 2x4x8 Pine or Framing Lumber
- 2 4’x8’x34″ MDF
- 4 5″ Locking Swivel Casters Link in Post
- 2″ Brad Nails
- 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
Instructions
- Cut List 1

- Cut List 2

- After making all of the cuts, drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the short pieces of the frames. Build the top and bottom frame by attaching the short pieces to the long pieces with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into the 2×4 leg pieces and attach them to the 2×6 pieces with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Do this for all 4 legs.

- Attach the legs to the outside corners of the bottom shelf with 2 1/2″ wood screws and wood glue, from the inside of the frame, into the legs. The bottom of the legs should be flush with the bottom of the frame.

- Flip the bench over and slide the top frame over the legs. Attach them with 2 1/2″ wood screws and wood glue, through the legs and into the frame. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.

- Attach the feet to the bottom of the frame with 2 1/2″ wood screws and wood glue.

- Attach the casters to the center of each foot.

- Attach the bottom and top shelves with wood glue and 2″ brad nails.All finished! At this point you can add a finish or leave it bare. Make it your own and be sure to share your builds with us on social media and use #shanty2chic so we can share them too! Happy Building!












You have to make legs 30 inches to get overall height of 36″ with caster. 26.5 legs will add up to a much lower table. Other than that, the directions are great. I have made one and now will make a second one based on this plan.
Hey ladies thanks and think I’m gonna modify these plans to start making Big Green Egg tables BC demand is thru the roof right now, very sturdy work table so a few extra braces & treated lumber. Nix the MDF & go w/treated 2×6 top & bottom few shelves & barn doors & “boom” should be great.
Awesome workbench. I made this last year and have since added things. I liked using the MDF a lot so that I wouldn’t worry too much about beating it up. Some plans I saw had bands of 2×4’s on their sides to make the surface. I’m sure that looks nice but too nice to mess up.
The reason I’m just now reviewing is that today I’m trying to reconfigure the dimensions to use the same plan for a Lego Table for my kids. It has to be more like 60”x40” MAX. It also has to be a bit lower. The MDF can probably be thinner since it’s only Legos and I’ll be gluing Lego tiles to the surface. I like the plan for the Lego table better than other “Lego Table” plans because I has the under storage as well as the casters. I can also feel free to add things to it. Anyway thanks for the plans. Very handy.
I just made the workbench and it turned out great. It was my first big project. Your instructions gave me confidence to do it, and I’m very proud. My daughter helped me, and we posed for a picture sitting on it like you did. She’s proud too. Love that you are women and are making the plans available for free. Thank you so much.
My first ever DIY project. I built some small end tables before that came out ok, but this these plans are legit! My work bench came out excellent. Even the non handiest beginner could follow these plans and figure this out.
I did a couple things different. I didn’t have a brad nailer, so I just drilled small holes and used 2 1/2” fastening screws to secure the top and bottom boards. I drilled dog bench holes along the front and right side, and I lightly burned and lacquered it. Such a beauty. Thanks chicks!
Only thing I would change, is I’d go with 30” legs as I’m 6’1, but it’s not uncomfortably short. Just a little shorter than it should be for someone my size lol. That’s my fault for not pre planning. All in all, this is a great plan and design.
Thanks for sharing your talents. I have a question regarding pocket screws. I realize they look.better. But, have you ever reseArched whether a screw …..installed straight in…..is structurally stronger?..
You all do awesome work! Your plans are so easy to follow! Was curious as to whether you used a software program for your mockups in the instructions? If so, what are you using?
Thanks!
how much would you charge for this workbench?
Great workbench.
Do you have the metric measurements?
Just finished this workbench today and I’m quite proud of it! Thank you for the plans and video! I made it about 40” tall to accommodate my height (I’m 7’1”), but that’s the only modification I made. I will say quickly that there is a slight typo in the printed plans though. In Step 2 you say to drill the pocket holes in the 2x6s and attach them to the 2x4s, and you’re supposed to do the opposite of that. Other than that this was a super easy plan that’s going to bring my projects to the next level! Thanks again!
I modified your plans a bit and built it!
Thank you.
Hi I watched your video and came away impressed. Your knowledge and execution of your plan was excellent.
I also liked the visual materials print you have on your site for this project.
I have to ask how you both came into doing this as a business? I ask because I am a creative artist and was looking for pointers on how to establish a business building furniture.
I am excited to tackle this project.
Thank you for your video.
Jeff
Cleveland, OH