And, if you would like to get our posts delivered directly to your inbox, you can subscribe to our mailing list!
Hey guys! If you follow us on Instagram, you may have seen a sneak peak of this project (you may have even asked if the tutorial was up for it ;))
It took me longer than usual to get final pics (finding a time when my kids rooms are actually picked up is near impossible in the summer 😉 ) but I managed! This is the last of my 3 kiddos beds. If you missed the first two, you can see them HERE and HERE! I have held off on this room because I wasn’t sure exactly what design I wanted but surprisingly, I was inspired by a reclaimed wood floor that I spotted in a restaurant – go figure 😉
*** Update – Free Printable Plans for this headboard are now available! Click the image below or HERE to print! And, a special thanks to Jay from Jay’s Custom Creations for creating the printable version of these plans!
So, I came home and got to work! This is seriously such an easy headboard to build. There’s really no wrong way to do it but here’s what I came up with This headboard is for a full mattress but very easy to convert to add width or subtract for another size.
I started with a piece of 1/4″ Purebond Plywood that I had Home Depot rip down at 37.5″x52″. You can read all about why we LOVE Purebond Plywood HERE!
Next, I started cutting planks. This is a great project to use your scraps on! I chose 1×2, 1×4 and 1×6 boards and you can see in this picture that I alternated them. I put a 1×4 between each row. The first cut you make doesn’t matter, just make sure to stagger your joints as you go. I also tried to use longer pieces under rows where I used shorter pieces. The planks will fit flush around the edges of the plywood so that it is completely covered.
Next, I stained each of the boards using 4 of my favorite Varathane stains – Wheat, Early American, Dark Walnut and Kona. Again, no rhyme or reason to the pattern, I just tried my best to mix them up so the same colors didn’t touch. Try to keep the pieces close to their original spots to save a headache *** To stain these, I used a foam brush (one per color) and wiped on one-coat, let the stain sit for about 5 minutes then wiped it with a clean cloth.
Once the stain dried, I used my Ryobi Corner Cat Sander to distress the edges of the planks.
Once they were where I wanted, I used my Ryobi Airstrike Nailer to shoot 1-inch nails through each of the planks – at least get a few on the ends of each plank and the center.
Once the glue was dry, I drilled 1 1/2″ Kreg Jig pocket holes into the back sides of the planked headboard (this will help attach the legs).
Then, I attached the legs with 2″ Kreg screws (the pocket holes are circled in the pictures). The legs are 2×6 boards cut at 53″. I stained the boards before attaching them to the headboard. You can use any stain for the legs, I chose Dark Walnut for mine.
and used my Ryobi Airstirke Nailer with 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach a 1×3 to the top. (the 1×3 trim is cut at 65″ and centered on the headboard so that there is an overhang on the front and back side.
For the top trim, I attached a 2×4 board, cut at 67″, with 2 1/2″ spax wood screws and wood glue. I like to use my impact driver when I’m drilling into 2x boards – saves the arms! You can also use your drill for this part! This board is centered on the 1×3 so that there is an overhang on the front and back and there will also be a 1″ overhang on each end.
Here is the headboard with the trim pieces. I do recommend staining the trim pieces before you attach them – apparently I was just too darn excited to get this sucker done It was a pain to stain it after.
I do love the platform bed that I designed for this headboard and you can find the Free Plans for that as well HERE!
Thanks so much for stopping by!
Here are the beds that I build for our other kiddos